If opting for a manual model, confirm that the clutch is still healthy. You can coax slippage from a badly worn clutch by applying full throttle at low revs in a high gear (for instance, at 50 km/h in fourth gear) and watching for signs of slippage. Like the clutch, brakes will wear over time, too – so make sure the seller isn’t trying to pass off a brake job. Pulsations through the pedal during moderate brake application, squealing sound from the brakes or a soft and spongy pedal are all signs of brake wear.

Doing about 25 km/h in first gear, quickly tap the accelerator numerous times, causing the car to lurch aggressively, where appropriate. This will coax any unwanted sounds, typically clanks or pops, out of the driveline, which could indicate trouble with motor or transmission mounts.

Check that roof. Manual or motorized, put it up and down several times – ensuring the hinges move freely, the roof assembly doesn’t bind or catch, and that the roof itself is free of damage. Does that cloth top have rips? Tears? Excessive wear? Duct tape? Does the roof motor on that power-top model whine and strain like an overloaded food processor? If so, call it into pricing negotiations. Also, note that a network of rubber gaskets and seals around the roof, windshield and windows keeps water from entering your convertible – so check that these are all intact, plump and free of wear, not dried out, cracked, chunked, or missing.

Be aware of a potential water leak into the trunk, which is likely the result of a bad seal, or a cracked rain rail, which guides rain water from the lower edge of the roof to internal drains beneath the rear parcel shelf. If you detect any evidence of a trunk leak, perhaps after pulling back the carpeting and looking beneath for signs of moisture, mould and rust, be sure to determine where it’s coming from, as the rain rail is an expensive piece to buy, and requires removal of the roof to replace.

For peace of mind, track down the tow-hook in the trunk of the car, and see if it’s been used. The tow hook is screwed into the bumper support as a towing point, perhaps to yank an MX-5 out of a ditch. If the tow hook looks like it’s been used, search for other signs of accident-related damage, and ask the seller if the car has a clean title and follow up with a vehicle history report.

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Under the hood, check for signs of fluid leaks, confirm all fluids are topped up and clean, and note the presence of any aftermarket, non-stock parts. Intake and exhaust upgrades are typically considered safe if the quality of the parts and installation are sound, but heavy engine modifications should typically be avoided by most shoppers.

For maximum peace of mind, visit a Mazda dealer with your used MX-5 candidate, and get a pre-purchase inspection. A Mazda mechanic will scrutinize the model you’re considering, possibly detecting problems or issues you may not. Further, if you’re unclear of the service history of the model you’re considering, budget for a full fluid change and tune-up, just to be safe.

If you notice any weirdness in the rev range, perhaps with a misfiring sensation or patchy delivery of power, a misfire, bad Mass Air Flow sensor or old spark plugs could be the culprit. A scan of the MX-5’s computer system can help determine the cause of any issues like these.

The Verdict:  The MX-5 was loved for a blend of efficient performance, reliability and fun factor. A clean used model with a mechanical thumbs-up should provide affordable access to years of worry-free, fun-in-the-sun motoring.

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