  Dirty, dirty Tiguan (top); Campbell River salmon fishers. Click image to enlarge |
We also forgot to photograph the world’s largest tree burl upon our return to Port McNeill. Actually, we almost missed it completely even though it’s a honking great thing. Between you and me, I think it could use a good polish.
The Tiguan was now starting to exhibit the characteristics of Charles Schulz’s Pigpen. The dust and grime had pretty much changed its colour from grey to brown, and a puff of wind would transfer the dust to anyone who came within a metre of it. It did look impressively well travelled, though, and we noticed that most vehicles in the area were similarly encrusted, so we fit right in. As for ourselves, after Bere Point we had spent $3.00 for a shower in Sointula (yes, they have People Washes there) and were consequently spic and span and headed for two storied gulf islands: Denman and Hornby.
As things emerged, the idea of visiting Victoria, Tofino, or the other obvious places you’d want to see on Vancouver Island had pretty much dissolved, and the thought of going much further south at all offered little appeal. En route to the islands, we stopped at Campbell River, staying at the fine Elk Falls Provincial Park where nearby we witnessed what appeared to be the entire town out fishing for salmon on the riverbanks.
It was a wonderfully Canadian scene—the men in their plaid shirts and waders, the boys and girls casting from shore—but lots of trees, vehicles, and people meant parking was a challenge, and the Tiguan’s “optical” backup sensor proved somewhat deficient as an aid in this endeavour. True, it emits a beeping sound if you’re about to hit something, but for 2012 it replaces the previously available backup camera, which seems a retrograde step to me. I would prefer the camera: you can see what’s behind you, rather than trying to contend with urgent beeps and a confusing display. The smallish rearview mirrors didn’t help.
 The view from Bere Point. Click image to enlarge |
While I’m griping, something else I missed in the Tiguan was a keyless start feature. This is something you’re seeing in vehicles costing much less, and certainly in vehicles at the Tiguan’s pricepoint. It does have a useful iPod interface and helpful adaptive headlights (they swivel as you turn; especially useful on dark country roads), both of which we appreciated throughout our trip.
Denman Island is home to a few hundred very fortunate people. There’s a co-op where you buy basic foodstuffs and an array of homes mostly pointing west so residents can take in the sunsets. There are music, crafts, art, festivals, and a whole lot of peace and quiet. And chocolate. Really. There’s a very well regarded chocolate factory (Denman Island Chocolate); certified organic, of course where you can get an all-natural fix if you’re so inclined. We stayed for a couple of nights at the Artists Khan guest house, which blows right by unconventional and swerves into Bohemian without even trying. But other than the outdoor custom-built two-person compost loo, it offered everything you could want at half the price you’d expect.
Of the two islands, Hornby is probably the better known. It’s much the same as Denman, only more so. Arts, crafts, live music, winemaking, a great pub on the waterfront, and a gorgeous trail in Helliwell Provincial Park with spectacular views of the Strait of Georgia and the Coast Mountains. Hornby has magnificent beaches, a famous free store, numerous restaurants, studios, mountain biking, and nighttime swimming. They even make mead there.
 Hornby Island at dusk. Click image to enlarge |
Back on the Vancouver Island, we shot through busy Parksville and Qualicum Bay, going as far south as Nanaimo, where I was hoping to find examples of the authentic Nanaimo bar. But it was not to be. The bars on offer at the ferry terminal seemed suspiciously familiar, and we had no time to explore the town alternatives. I remain hopeful, though.
We bid farewell to the Tiguan in Vancouver the following day. Susan loved it, and it’s at the top of her list to replace an aging Honda CR-V. I thought it was a nice-driving and stylish vehicle, a bit small, but therefore very maneuverable and perhaps “just right” if you’re looking for the benefits of a compact SUV and the drivability of a small car. Unlike some in this segment, this is a sport-utility vehicle with the accent on sport, handling, and exterior design.
There are many alternatives, including the bestselling Ford Escape, the popular Chevrolet Equinox, the Honda CR-V, and Toyota RAV4, Subaru Forester, Nissan Rogue, Hyundai Tucson, Kia Sportage… and the list goes on! But the Volkswagen Tiguan is the only European compact SUV at this price point, and it really does have a different look and character than its competition. It’s distinctive, in other words, albeit more expensive than most of its direct competition.
As far as a holiday in British Columbia is concerned, I can’t recommend it highly enough. Every day offered wonderful scenery, exciting discoveries, and pleasant, interesting people. And apparently, contrary to what we were led to believe, it never rains.
