Topic: Need Detailing Help? Come On In!

[CanuckS2K]

Spent the entire weekend detailing.  Two travel trailers yesterday and a Dodge Ram today.  I'm currently booked solid until almost mid May so it's gonna be a busy spring.

A couple of pics from today's detail.

[Weels]

Canuck to the rescue..

Recall a couple months ago I had some stuff drip on my car & left a stain:



The Klasse AIO you suggested removed those stains no problem.

Now that the snow is gone & can keep the car reasonably clean, i've found a couple more spots of the same thing, including a pretty big one on the hood that I somehow missed seeing earlier.
Have tried several applications of the Klasse, and no luck.  Stain won't budge. 

Is there anything else I could try that I could apply by hand, or should I seek out a local detailer?

Thanks (again)..

[CanuckS2K]

Canuck to the rescue..

Recall a couple months ago I had some stuff drip on my car & left a stain:



The Klasse AIO you suggested removed those stains no problem.

Now that the snow is gone & can keep the car reasonably clean, i've found a couple more spots of the same thing, including a pretty big one on the hood that I somehow missed seeing earlier.
Have tried several applications of the Klasse, and no luck.  Stain won't budge. 

Is there anything else I could try that I could apply by hand, or should I seek out a local detailer?

Thanks (again)..

IMHO, you'll need a machine to generate enough heat to break down the polish and remove it.   Removing things like this by hand is hard and sometimes impossible because you're not generatting enough heat to break down the polishes enough. 

[CanuckS2K]

I've been flat out with work lately, but here's a quick before and after of a 335i that I detailed yesterday.  I swear that this person must of used a brilllo pad or steel wool to was his car. 

Before




After

[CanuckS2K]

Canuck to the rescue..

Recall a couple months ago I had some stuff drip on my car & left a stain:



The Klasse AIO you suggested removed those stains no problem.

Now that the snow is gone & can keep the car reasonably clean, i've found a couple more spots of the same thing, including a pretty big one on the hood that I somehow missed seeing earlier.
Have tried several applications of the Klasse, and no luck.  Stain won't budge. 

Is there anything else I could try that I could apply by hand, or should I seek out a local detailer?

Thanks (again)..

IMHO, you'll need a machine to generate enough heat to break down the polish and remove it.   Removing things like this by hand is hard and sometimes impossible because you're not generatting enough heat to break down the polishes enough.

Btw, I meant to ask you in my previous post if you tried your Klasse on that spot as well?  If so, did it not remove it entirely?

[Bubba]

I've been flat out with work lately, but here's a quick before and after of a 335i that I detailed yesterday.  I swear that this person must of used a brilllo pad or steel wool to was his car. 

Before




After

Can you clone yourself so we can have you based in Winnipeg?  I want my Sebring to look like new. 

[dasiuyan]

I think I am ready to detail my car in thee spring..... but first of all, after a really detail carwash, I found lot of brown spot on my white colour paint. I presume those are caused by brake dust. I used to use scratch remover to remove them. If I am going to clay the car, should I bother with scratch remover?

[CanuckS2K]

I think I am ready to detail my car in thee spring..... but first of all, after a really detail carwash, I found lot of brown spot on my white colour paint. I presume those are caused by brake dust. I used to use scratch remover to remove them. If I am going to clay the car, should I bother with scratch remover?

What you are seeing is rail dust.....which are tiny metal particles that have embedded into your paint.  Basically, it's caused by the friction between the rails and the train wheels.  These particles during transit bond to your clear coat and will rust in a very short time.......hence the many rust coloured spots that you are seeing. 

To remove them, you'll need to use clay bar and a lubricant.  Any other questions just let me know.   

[Weels]

Btw, I meant to ask you in my previous post if you tried your Klasse on that spot as well?  If so, did it not remove it entirely?

The spot on my hood may be something different.. the stains on the side of the car (in the pics) came off easily with the Klasse.  Last night I made a long overdue trip to coin-op wash & gave it a good cleaning - at home I saw a few more small spots along the side, and again the Klasse removed them no problem.

The spot on the hood you can feel when you run your fingers across it - the stains on the side felt like nothing was there.  The Klasse won't budge the hood stain.

[dasiuyan]

I think I am ready to detail my car in thee spring..... but first of all, after a really detail carwash, I found lot of brown spot on my white colour paint. I presume those are caused by brake dust. I used to use scratch remover to remove them. If I am going to clay the car, should I bother with scratch remover?

What you are seeing is rail dust.....which are tiny metal particles that have embedded into your paint.  Basically, it's caused by the friction between the rails and the train wheels.  These particles during transit bond to your clear coat and will rust in a very short time.......hence the many rust coloured spots that you are seeing. 

To remove them, you'll need to use clay bar and a lubricant.  Any other questions just let me know.   

Hi, my car is not new. It is going to be 4 years old this summer. I think they are brake dust; the rust spots are more this year. I believe this is due the aftermarket/performance brake pad installed last year.

[CanuckS2K]

Btw, I meant to ask you in my previous post if you tried your Klasse on that spot as well?  If so, did it not remove it entirely?

The spot on my hood may be something different.. the stains on the side of the car (in the pics) came off easily with the Klasse.  Last night I made a long overdue trip to coin-op wash & gave it a good cleaning - at home I saw a few more small spots along the side, and again the Klasse removed them no problem.

The spot on the hood you can feel when you run your fingers across it - the stains on the side felt like nothing was there.  The Klasse won't budge the hood stain.

Definitely sounds like you'll need the stain on the hood removed with a machine.  Any good detailing shops in your area?

[CanuckS2K]

I think I am ready to detail my car in thee spring..... but first of all, after a really detail carwash, I found lot of brown spot on my white colour paint. I presume those are caused by brake dust. I used to use scratch remover to remove them. If I am going to clay the car, should I bother with scratch remover?

What you are seeing is rail dust.....which are tiny metal particles that have embedded into your paint.  Basically, it's caused by the friction between the rails and the train wheels.  These particles during transit bond to your clear coat and will rust in a very short time.......hence the many rust coloured spots that you are seeing. 

To remove them, you'll need to use clay bar and a lubricant.  Any other questions just let me know.   

Hi, my car is not new. It is going to be 4 years old this summer. I think they are brake dust; the rust spots are more this year. I believe this is due the aftermarket/performance brake pad installed last year.

Your car doesn't need to be new to have rail dust bonded to your paint.  If it was never properly removed, it will still be there.  But regardless if it's rail dust or brake dust, it will need to be removed with clay bar. 

[Weels]

Any good detailing shops in your area?

Nope.  How soon can you get here?   

[dasiuyan]

I think I am ready to detail my car in thee spring..... but first of all, after a really detail carwash, I found lot of brown spot on my white colour paint. I presume those are caused by brake dust. I used to use scratch remover to remove them. If I am going to clay the car, should I bother with scratch remover?

What you are seeing is rail dust.....which are tiny metal particles that have embedded into your paint.  Basically, it's caused by the friction between the rails and the train wheels.  These particles during transit bond to your clear coat and will rust in a very short time.......hence the many rust coloured spots that you are seeing. 

To remove them, you'll need to use clay bar and a lubricant.  Any other questions just let me know.   

Hi, my car is not new. It is going to be 4 years old this summer. I think they are brake dust; the rust spots are more this year. I believe this is due the aftermarket/performance brake pad installed last year.

Your car doesn't need to be new to have rail dust bonded to your paint.  If it was never properly removed, it will still be there.  But regardless if it's rail dust or brake dust, it will need to be removed with clay bar. 

Very true.

I am a cheap perfectionist; I want good result but I get no money. I do not plan to purchase any power equipment, so I don't mind to use elbow grease. I read the 20+ pages of posting. I am still a bit confuse about sealer. I do not plan to shop at eshine; so my product purchasing selection pretty much limited to the big blocks store in GTA. I am not too sure about the order of using wax, polish, sealer, etc.

So, please correct my planning for detailing my car's exterior:

• I have heard to stripe the old wax, I can use dish washing liquid to wash my car.
• Dry it under shades; but previous experience tells me it may be good to dry it under the sun and then park the car in the shade immediate after. It helps to dry out moisture trapped behind some trimmings.
• Touch up any paint chip
• Claying: I have a Meguiar clay kit. Should I start from 'dirty' portion (front) or 'cleaner' part (roof)?
• Waxing: I have some kind of Meguiar Gold Class™ Carnauba wax. i know I have to work in small area. Should I practice straight line application, not circular?
• Remove wax by using Microfider cloth; remove any tag on it. Straight line action too?
• When should I apply the sealer? According to previous discussion, I think it comes to conclusion that sealer work good on light colour car?
• Is there sealer available in the big block store that I should trust?

Thanks for all your help!

[safristi]

South Ontario Detailing...........S.O.D  if I know ...Snowballs too lazy...Inco's a wax ICON...and Bobs yer Uncle...................did i rub a few the wrong way Canuck

[CanuckS2K]

Any good detailing shops in your area?

Nope.  How soon can you get here?   

Depends on how quickly you can book me a flight.   

[CanuckS2K]

I think I am ready to detail my car in thee spring..... but first of all, after a really detail carwash, I found lot of brown spot on my white colour paint. I presume those are caused by brake dust. I used to use scratch remover to remove them. If I am going to clay the car, should I bother with scratch remover?

What you are seeing is rail dust.....which are tiny metal particles that have embedded into your paint.  Basically, it's caused by the friction between the rails and the train wheels.  These particles during transit bond to your clear coat and will rust in a very short time.......hence the many rust coloured spots that you are seeing. 

To remove them, you'll need to use clay bar and a lubricant.  Any other questions just let me know.   

Hi, my car is not new. It is going to be 4 years old this summer. I think they are brake dust; the rust spots are more this year. I believe this is due the aftermarket/performance brake pad installed last year.

Your car doesn't need to be new to have rail dust bonded to your paint.  If it was never properly removed, it will still be there.  But regardless if it's rail dust or brake dust, it will need to be removed with clay bar. 

Very true.

I am a cheap perfectionist; I want good result but I get no money. I do not plan to purchase any power equipment, so I don't mind to use elbow grease. I read the 20+ pages of posting. I am still a bit confuse about sealer. I do not plan to shop at eshine; so my product purchasing selection pretty much limited to the big blocks store in GTA. I am not too sure about the order of using wax, polish, sealer, etc.

So, please correct my planning for detailing my car's exterior:

• I have heard to stripe the old wax, I can use dish washing liquid to wash my car.
• Dry it under shades; but previous experience tells me it may be good to dry it under the sun and then park the car in the shade immediate after. It helps to dry out moisture trapped behind some trimmings.
• Touch up any paint chip
• Claying: I have a Meguiar clay kit. Should I start from 'dirty' portion (front) or 'cleaner' part (roof)?
• Waxing: I have some kind of Meguiar Gold Class™ Carnauba wax. i know I have to work in small area. Should I practice straight line application, not circular?
• Remove wax by using Microfider cloth; remove any tag on it. Straight line action too?
• When should I apply the sealer? According to previous discussion, I think it comes to conclusion that sealer work good on light colour car?
• Is there sealer available in the big block store that I should trust?

Thanks for all your help!

Yes, you can use dish soap to strip any wax or sealant that you have applied.

Dry your car immediately and don't let the sun dry it for you.  Assuming that you aren't using a de-ionized water filtration system, minerals in your water will cause harsh water spots on your paint.

For claying, it doesn't really matter what panel you start with first.  The key is to always use clean clay.  Once the clay gets dirty fold it over to you get a clean spot......and when you can't any longer discard it.  And if you ever drop a piece be sure to just toss it. 

As for applying waxes and sealants I always recommend applying it in a straight line versus circular motions.  If you plan on applying a wax AND a sealant make sure that you apply the sealant first and not the wax.  Waxes will bond to sealants, but not the other way around.  I don't purchase my products from local stores, but I'm guessing that if you were to find a sealant in a store like Canadian Tire, it would be from Meguiars.....which is fine. 

Any other questions, just let me know. 

[dasiuyan]

I think I am ready to detail my car in thee spring..... but first of all, after a really detail carwash, I found lot of brown spot on my white colour paint. I presume those are caused by brake dust. I used to use scratch remover to remove them. If I am going to clay the car, should I bother with scratch remover?

What you are seeing is rail dust.....which are tiny metal particles that have embedded into your paint.  Basically, it's caused by the friction between the rails and the train wheels.  These particles during transit bond to your clear coat and will rust in a very short time.......hence the many rust coloured spots that you are seeing. 

To remove them, you'll need to use clay bar and a lubricant.  Any other questions just let me know.   

Hi, my car is not new. It is going to be 4 years old this summer. I think they are brake dust; the rust spots are more this year. I believe this is due the aftermarket/performance brake pad installed last year.

Your car doesn't need to be new to have rail dust bonded to your paint.  If it was never properly removed, it will still be there.  But regardless if it's rail dust or brake dust, it will need to be removed with clay bar. 

Very true.

I am a cheap perfectionist; I want good result but I get no money. I do not plan to purchase any power equipment, so I don't mind to use elbow grease. I read the 20+ pages of posting. I am still a bit confuse about sealer. I do not plan to shop at eshine; so my product purchasing selection pretty much limited to the big blocks store in GTA. I am not too sure about the order of using wax, polish, sealer, etc.

So, please correct my planning for detailing my car's exterior:

• I have heard to stripe the old wax, I can use dish washing liquid to wash my car.
• Dry it under shades; but previous experience tells me it may be good to dry it under the sun and then park the car in the shade immediate after. It helps to dry out moisture trapped behind some trimmings.
• Touch up any paint chip
• Claying: I have a Meguiar clay kit. Should I start from 'dirty' portion (front) or 'cleaner' part (roof)?
• Waxing: I have some kind of Meguiar Gold Class™ Carnauba wax. i know I have to work in small area. Should I practice straight line application, not circular?
• Remove wax by using Microfider cloth; remove any tag on it. Straight line action too?
• When should I apply the sealer? According to previous discussion, I think it comes to conclusion that sealer work good on light colour car?
• Is there sealer available in the big block store that I should trust?

Thanks for all your help!

Yes, you can use dish soap to strip any wax or sealant that you have applied.

Dry your car immediately and don't let the sun dry it for you.  Assuming that you aren't using a de-ionized water filtration system, minerals in your water will cause harsh water spots on your paint.

For claying, it doesn't really matter what panel you start with first.  The key is to always use clean clay.  Once the clay gets dirty fold it over to you get a clean spot......and when you can't any longer discard it.  And if you ever drop a piece be sure to just toss it. 

As for applying waxes and sealants I always recommend applying it in a straight line versus circular motions.  If you plan on applying a wax AND a sealant make sure that you apply the sealant first and not the wax.  Waxes will bond to sealants, but not the other way around.  I don't purchase my products from local stores, but I'm guessing that if you were to find a sealant in a store like Canadian Tire, it would be from Meguiars.....which is fine. 

Any other questions, just let me know. 

Thanks. I just browsed Meguiar's and CanTire website.... it seems they don't have any Sealant. except for RV ?http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/VehicleAccessories/RVAccessories/PRD~0408426P/Premium+RV+Wax+Sealant.jsp?locale=en
I dug deeper, I think Meguiar only offer Sealant in the US? http://www.meguiars.com/en/professional/products/m2016-polymer-sealant-16oz/

I guess I need to look elsewhere? How about retail store in the US? I can pick it up next time I do cross-border shopping. You have any experience/recommendation?

Edit: Do manufactures name 'Sealant' different?

[CanuckS2K]

^  I only purchase products from detailing shops so I'm actually not sure what's available in box store types of places.  But I'll tell you what, I'll send you a small portion of the sealant that I use that will be enough to do your vehicle.  Just PM me your address.   

[dasiuyan]

^  I only purchase products from detailing shops so I'm actually not sure what's available in box store types of places.  But I'll tell you what, I'll send you a small portion of the sealant that I use that will be enough to do your vehicle.  Just PM me your address.   

Thanks for your offer.

May I clarify with you that I recall there is discussion in this post for specific sealant for light/dark paint.
Could you please show me some example? as I have both white and black (deep dark charcoal grey) car in my family.