Topic: Undercoat Protection is it a waste of money?

[Gardiner Westbound]

Carmakers avoid designed-in moisture pockets, vulnerable panels are galvanized both sides, bodies are fully immersed in rustproofing chemicals and many components are non-corroding plastic, all backed by a lengthy warranty. Do you really think a marijuana-buzzed high school dropout drilling holes in your new car, perforating the factory sealants and spraying smelly glop will add anything? I don't think so, and it may damage the car and void the factory warranty!

Some products are $750 one-time waxy coatings. Dirt, debris and dust collects in chassis nooks and crannies, door pillars and inside doors, the areas targeted. Wax-coating dirt does nothing to protect the underlying metal. Warranty compensation is difficult to collect.

An alternate is the annual $125 oil sprays. They are ineffective for similar reasons. Warranty compensation is difficult to collect.

Rubber or asphalt based $500 sound suppressant undercoating actually promotes corrosion.

Disreputable car dealers and auto supply stores sell electronic rust protection modules. Prices range from $150 to $2,000. The LED indicator lamp is the only thing that really works! The National Association of Corrosion Engineers (NACE) says they are ineffective for vehicles. Cathodic electrochemical corrosion prevention is valid only for boats, bridges and pipelines where electrical continuity can be maintained through seawater or soil. Warranty compensation is difficult to collect.

Instead of pricey rustproofing sprays and gadgets spring for quality mud flaps to protect the car from stone damage, fix paint chips and scratches quickly, and wash the car frequently in the wintertime.

[safristi]

so ,if according to the Armed Forces Krown is 80% effective if applied annually wot do the Anal retentives do about the other 20%.Swallow ZINC pills....

[Rupert]

   The quality and coverage of the coating of whatever varies quite a bit. Had a good coating done by a dealer one time but another dealers effort was very poor. I am pretty sure that it does help...especially so on larger surfaces underneath the car, and depending on the product, more or less so in the joints. Thinner spray material will probably get in the joints a bit better.
   I go for the one time application, now at companies that specialise in performing this application (can't be bothered to keep going back). One place does both thin fluid for the joints and thick material overall in one visit. So far cars have been kept up to 10 years and the results have been reasonable. One vehicle that was not done rusted out. The rust will get there eventually but the retarding effect of this is there, I am pretty sure. If you are going to keep your car for 3 years or more it probably is worth the initial expense IMO if done properly; the last words are key.
    It's hard to comment about sound suppression; not being able to assess before and after.

[RunsinLight]

I went with krown after wasting money on the dealer spray.  Only evidence I have is what my eyes see. I have members with vehicles that they have owned for 20 years or more.  The vehicles look amazing and the credit it completly to Krown.

[Snowman]

Carmakers avoid designed-in moisture pockets, vulnerable panels are galvanized both sides, bodies are fully immersed in rustproofing chemicals and many components are non-corroding plastic, all backed by a lengthy warranty. Do you really think a marijuana-buzzed high school dropout drilling holes in your new car, perforating the factory sealants and spraying smelly glop will add anything? I don't think so, and it may damage the car and void the factory warranty!

Some products are $750 one-time waxy coatings. Dirt, debris and dust collects in chassis nooks and crannies, door pillars and inside doors, the areas targeted. Wax-coating dirt does nothing to protect the underlying metal. Warranty compensation is difficult to collect.

An alternate is the annual $125 oil sprays. They are ineffective for similar reasons. Warranty compensation is difficult to collect.

Rubber or asphalt based $500 sound suppressant undercoating actually promotes corrosion.

Disreputable car dealers and auto supply stores sell electronic rust protection modules. Prices range from $150 to $2,000. The LED indicator lamp is the only thing that really works! The National Association of Corrosion Engineers (NACE) says they are ineffective for vehicles. Cathodic electrochemical corrosion prevention is valid only for boats, bridges and pipelines where electrical continuity can be maintained through seawater or soil. Warranty compensation is difficult to collect.

Instead of pricey rustproofing sprays and gadgets spring for quality mud flaps to protect the car from stone damage, fix paint chips and scratches quickly, and wash the car frequently in the wintertime.

Never have and never will.

[ArticSteve]

I went with krown after wasting money on the dealer spray.  Only evidence I have is what my eyes see. I have members with vehicles that they have owned for 20 years or more.  The vehicles look amazing and the credit it completely to Krown.

It's the only application to use.  Very effective.

The "dealer" applied black spray paint (bottom) and wax oil (body panels) is laughable and detrimental.

Army base out side of the OS sprays Krown on all vehicles that have wheels. 

[jamesautos]

my wife has rust proofing at the dealer when she bought her impreza brand new in 2008 before we got married

it f**king drips everywhere.  It also get caked on and sipped into door/wheelwell edges that look ugly and is impossible to get off... you probably need a wire brush to scrub it off!!! it also add weight, our mechanic hates it everytime we go for oil change or suspension work

mine car (another 2008 subaru) had no rust proving and both of our cars are rust free in the undercarriage (mine actually look cleaner without all the grim and tar) but my wife's exhaust pipe is rusted bad and rattles all the time while mine exhaust pipe is still good

[Rupert]

When we have had this kind of treatment done I found that the lid of the trunk was done and this stayed sticky for the longest time. I specified that the trunk lid not be sprayed subsequently....never had a trunk lid rust. No suspension parts have ever been sprayed...intentionally anyway. Surely these parts are omitted. All of the product has dried to a plyable non-sticky substance eventually and non ever dripped or ran. Can't say that the appearance of the vehicle was marred but some sprayed parts, particularly under the hood, attract dust but significantly do not rust. Perhaps this would not have happened anyway. As stated before though, we do not pay annual visits. All of the cars we have traded have been pretty  decent rustwise, except for one that we did not have done. The single treatment Accent is remarkably good after 6 years in TO. As manufactured corrosion treatments have improved also I suspect.