Finally got a break in the schedule and went to the storage parkade with tools and everything I needed.
Turns out, for once, the easiest option worked and I drove it home! I first cleaned the clutch master cylinder with clean rags damped with new DOT 3 brake fluild, and cleaned the cap while at it. I managed not to get any junk in the lower part of the master. Once that was clean, by flashlight (dark garage) I could tell the slave is a replacement (looks like a Moss "Classic Gold"), that instead of the red rubber hose I have a clear plastic line and that the MC is the original Girling unit - why the rebuilder did not change it out is beyond me.
Then I applied protection over the paint and carefully filled the master with new DOT 3 fluid up to 2/3rds. Went in the car, pumped the clutch multiple times and felt the pressure coming back - all good. Removed the cap again, and topped it to the "full" line. More pumping. Time to start it up.
I had left the battery in the car since April 20th and never touched it (no outlet there for the maintainer). The TR6 vroomed to life like a new car (except for the requisite puff of black smoke
). I left it warm up a bit, pushed the clutch in, clenched teeth and selected reverse - no grinding!!
After moving the car a bit indoors, I drove straight home. Did not bleed the system, and could not see any bubbles in the clear line to the slave. It drove fine with no shenanigans.
In my well lighted garage, I could see that the slave is installed on the correct side of the mounting bracker (frequent mistake with these cars), but the rubber cap is off the end and it had drops of fluid on it. I cleaned it and will see if it becomes wet again, but it appears it leaks, as well the as the master.
The cotter pin at the pedal box is worn and adds some pedal play, so I'll order one from Moss, along with a full hydraulics kit.
