Topic: Checking your oil

[Noto]

I keep the Mazda on the 4-month oil change interval and use conventional stuff.  Last one was November 10th, meaning the next one would not be until ~March 10th.

I honestly can't recall if I checked the dipstick since Nov 10 until last night.  The level was about here (maybe a touch higher - this is a stock image, not my car):


So, either my Mazda 3 with 20,000km is burning oil all of a sudden, the severe cold temperatures were brutal on it, or Canuck Tire didn't fill it fully.  I guess there isn't much of a way to determine what the cause was until I follow a number of oil changes?  Funny how our Subaru oil level hasn't dropped at all, and yet the Mazda is the one I'm querying burning oil...

Any way, the question from this (other than what ya'll think) is when/how often do you check your oil?  Does it matter if you check when the car is cold vs warm?  Should I really be checking the oil level the day after an oil change?

Last question: do I bother topping that up?  It's still within the acceptable range, just on the low end.  I'll end up getting my next oil change in two months any way, so I'm not sure buying a quart of oil is necessary, but maybe that's how low I am?

Anything (other than GBA's badgering) helps - thanks!

[mrthompson]

Any way, the question from this (other than what ya'll think) is when/how often do you check your oil? 
Once a month, or when I'm topping up the washer fluid.

Does it matter if you check when the car is cold vs warm? 
Oil should be cold to get a true reading.


Should I really be checking the oil level the day after an oil change?
Sure - because oil change "techs" can make mistakes.

Last question: do I bother topping that up? 
Yes.

[tpl]

I change the oil in the Q5 every 8000 km.  Manual says 16000. The Fit only does about 8000 km a year so it gets a service and oil change on its birthday.

Both cars came from the factory using synthetic. 0w-20 for the Fit  and 5w-40  for the Q.    Neither one burns any between changes.  Fit has a dipstick, Q has an electronic gauge but being an old fashioned guy I bought a dipstick for it.  I would much rather trust 40 cm of steel than FCG electronics. Manual says check warm on the level.   OK but my driveway slopes a bit and I always check the oil there so consistency wins for this.


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[draghon]

when/how often do you check your oil?

Generally every other time I fill with gas

Does it matter if you check when the car is cold vs warm? 

Check your owners manual

Should I really be checking the oil level the day after an oil change?

Yes, in fact right after would be best. I've read a number of stories where garages have forgotten to fill with new oil after draining.

Last question: do I bother topping that up?

If you were going to change your oil in the next couple of days I'd say don't bother. Otherwise, spend the 3 dollars for a bottle of oil...

[sszoomzoom]

I have only checked the oil once in my 2012 Mazda 3 and it was ok. Since I got the new 3 I have never checked it. I always do my oil changes at the dealer and honestly never thought of checking.
On my wife's 2010 Mazda 5 we never checked the oil since we bought it in 2010.
Both cars run synthetic and have the oil change done at the dealer from day 1.
I always think that if there is an issue the dummy light will let me know. I trust the dealer to do a good job every time I take any of the cars in.

[tortoise]

Any way, the question from this (other than what ya'll think) is when/how often do you check your oil? 
Usually around once a month.  Seemingly at random.

Does it matter if you check when the car is cold vs warm?
Volkswagen says to check the oil when the car is at operating temperature and to waitia few minutes after turning it off before checking.

Should I really be checking the oil level the day after an oil change?
Probably. Though it's not something I do all the time. 

Last question: do I bother topping that up? 
I would.  Assuming the oil is on sale and I can buy a bunch for the next oil change (I bring the oil to the shop with the car).

Also, are you sure you'd pressed the dipstick all the way down?  Stupid question I know, but I've read low oil and then realized dipstick wasn't all the way in.

[HeliDriver]

I check mine every other fill up or so. Engine is warm and gas stations are generally flat, for consistency. As was said, just give the oil a few minutes to drain back into the pan.

If that was the level on the dipstick when cold (like minus 20 cold), I’d check again when at operating temp. If it comes up to half way on the dipstick, I’d probably leave it. But if that is already the level when warm, I’d top it up and keep an eye on it.

[EV Dan]

Should I really be checking the oil level the day after an oil change?

You should be checking it before you start the engine in their parking lot. Every once in awhile a customer at those "service" shops get no oil at all. If they do, it is very likely the cheapest recycled stuff they could find so no wonder it burns faster. It comes from the same barrel regardless of what you drive, with exception of diesels maybe. Bottom line, if you like your car, buy a bunch of good quality filters, WIX for example, or whichever brand you trust from rockauto, then a can of Mobil 1 synthetic from your favourite local store and take it to an actual independent mechanic where you can see how it's done. More legwork for sure but you car will thank you in the long run.

[Noto]

Thanks, all!

Does it matter if you check when the car is cold vs warm? 
Check your owners manual

Good point

Inspecting Engine Oil Level
1. Be sure the vehicle is on a level surface.
2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature.
3. Turn it off and wait at least 5 minutes for the oil to return to the oil pan.
4. Pull out the dipstick, wipe it clean, and reinsert it fully.
Full
OK
Low
5. Pull it out again and examine the level. It's OK between Low or MIN and Full or MAX. But if it's near or below Low or MIN, add enough oil to bring the level to Full or MAX.
CAUTION
Don't add engine oil over Full or MAX. This may cause engine damage.
6. Make sure the O-ring on the dipstick is positioned properly before reinserting the dipstick. The distance between Low or MIN and Full or MAX on the dipstick represents the following:
Oil capacity
L (US qt, Imp qt) 0.75 (0.79, 0.66)

https://ca.mazdacdn.com/common/en/pdf/manuals/mazda3/2010mazda3omeng.ts.1504111442462030.pdf

Also, are you sure you'd pressed the dipstick all the way down?  Stupid question I know, but I've read low oil and then realized dipstick wasn't all the way in.

Yeah, after seeing the low level, I repeated 5x.  (it's +8'C out today).

First read was on the driveway (sloped), and so I moved it to the street to repeat, same thing.  I'm tempted to run out to the car now and check again - it'll be cold now that it hasn't been driven in 2 hours, but it's definitely on flat land.

take it to an actual independent mechanic where you can see how it's done.

We've beaten that dead horse already - even though I'd prefer the confirmation that it's done right, getting oil changes done for you is quite economical and much easier.  I use CT because I got coupons for free oil changes along with the roadside assistance I got for $50 on sale.  This would have been the 5th oil change, and the only one where the stick read anywhere below where it should.

[Seafoam]

With the mazda 3 make sure dipstick goes all the way down to get the correct reading. You will notice that the plastic part at the top will some times catch at the top leading  to an incorrect reading. My nephew has the exact same car and I do the oil changes for him on it.
There is a lot of Ford parts on that car. I believe the dipstick has FOMOCO printed on the back of it.
His car has  140,000 km and no unscheduled oil additions needed.

[tenpenny]

Should I really be checking the oil level the day after an oil change?

You should be checking it before you start the engine in their parking lot. Every once in awhile a customer at those "service" shops get no oil at all. If they do, it is very likely the cheapest recycled stuff they could find so no wonder it burns faster. It comes from the same barrel regardless of what you drive, with exception of diesels maybe. Bottom line, if you like your car, buy a bunch of good quality filters, WIX for example, or whichever brand you trust from rockauto, then a can of Mobil 1 synthetic from your favourite local store and take it to an actual independent mechanic where you can see how it's done. More legwork for sure but you car will thank you in the long run.

You mean you don’t watch them fill?


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[EV-Light]

You should move to a synthetic blend or full authentic...

Checking your oil when the car is cold is also the correct procedure - not sure why some suggested to check at operating temperature!?




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[EV Dan]

Should I really be checking the oil level the day after an oil change?

You should be checking it before you start the engine in their parking lot. Every once in awhile a customer at those "service" shops get no oil at all. If they do, it is very likely the cheapest recycled stuff they could find so no wonder it burns faster. It comes from the same barrel regardless of what you drive, with exception of diesels maybe. Bottom line, if you like your car, buy a bunch of good quality filters, WIX for example, or whichever brand you trust from rockauto, then a can of Mobil 1 synthetic from your favourite local store and take it to an actual independent mechanic where you can see how it's done. More legwork for sure but you car will thank you in the long run.

You mean you don’t watch them fill?


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You mean at Canuck Tire?
In case of my mechanic I bring my own oil and filter.

[HeliDriver]

You should move to a synthetic blend or full authentic...

Checking your oil when the car is cold is also the correct procedure - not sure why some suggested to check at operating temperature!?




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Not sure why?

It was mentioned four times in this thread. It’s even in bold.

Hint: there’s a little book that comes with the car.

[rrocket]

You should move to a synthetic blend or full authentic...

Checking your oil when the car is cold is also the correct procedure - not sure why some suggested to check at operating temperature!?




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Not sure why?

It was mentioned four times in this thread. It’s even in bold.

Hint: there’s a little book that comes with the car.

Yep...different procedure for every car.

911 actually required the car to be at operating temp..and oil checked WITH THE CAR RUNNING.

My 996, you ran the car to operating temp.  Then shut it off.  The on board oil level check would say "Wait 2 minutes" and count down.  After that, it would check the oil level...and I'd check with the dip stick to see if they matched.

[HeliDriver]

I even checked to see what Ford says for the Mustang. Turns out that instructions for V6 and V8 are the same  .

They’re not fussy: either check it cold, or shut engine off and wait ten minutes.

[rrocket]

I even checked to see what Ford says for the Mustang. Turns out that instructions for V6 and V8 are the same  .

They’re not fussy: either check it cold, or shut engine off and wait ten minutes.

MOST of the time, it's check it cold to be sure oil has drained to the pan...or warm and wait...for the same reason.  Dipstick usually goes to the pan.

But still....cars can be different.

[johngenx]

Most cars I've owned had you check the oil after getting it to operating temperature and then letting it sit for a few minutes with the engine off.  But, read the manual to know exactly.  As rr noted, the old 911s have a procedure where you check it with the engine running.  The dry sump tank is a little different than most cars.

[tpl]

FWIW  one of the first things I do when I get a brand new car home is to check the oil.  That is the baseline for where the level should appear on the dipstick.  Was complicated on the  Q5 by having to go out and buy the dipstick a couple of days later.


But like rr's Porsche the Q instructions  say warmed up , turn engine off and wait for two minutes before using the electronic gauge

[Great_Big_Abyss]

So,

Are you checking the oil immediately after you've turned off the engine?  Because you need to wait a few minutes after you've shut the engine off before checking oil. 

When the engine is running, the oil pump sends the oil all over the engine and into the heads.  When you shut off the engine, that oil needs a few minutes to make its way (by gravity) back down to the oil pan.  If you're checking your oil immediately after turning off the engine, what you're seeing is an artificially low level.