Topic: Methinks the Mazda needs a new AC belt and probably the tensioner pulley

[Noto]

Digging deeper, other folks online point to a failing engine or transmission mount, an alternator bearing, some think it's the "AC clutch" (note: the sound occurs whether the compressor is on or not), perhaps a loose heat shield, etc.

Thoughts?

(not responding to points about replacing a car with 19,300km on it - especially since it's just a you, Noah )

[tortoise]

Mazdas mounts have typically not been very durable.  But when mine failed (in the P5 and Mz5) there was no squeak.

[Fobroader]

Is there an actual idler pulley?? Oh, and congrats on the pulley change!!

[Noto]

Is there an actual idler pulley?? Oh, and congrats on the pulley change!!

I replaced the pulley in the top right.  Not sure what the idler pulley would be, except maybe the one just below it?

Anyone have a thought on whether the tensioner assembly itself could be the problem?    I somehow don't see how that could be the issue if the pulley was replaced.  That's $112.67:

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=4736313&cc=1444217

If it's the alternator pulley, Rock Auto has the part for $65.85 CAD + shipping.  I'm not positive I could reach the space to do that job, but I could check it out.

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=8606792&cc=1444217&jsn=356

Engine mounts are cheap ($10.03 CAD), but I doubt that's a job I could easily do in my driveway...

http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1572402&cc=1444217

The difficulty with diagnosis is that the noise isn't present at idle; it's only there under light load.  I could likely (haven't yet tried to) reproduce the noise with power braking (i.e. car in gear, foot firmly on brake, and slight rev), but then I need someone to assist me and the wife won't be willing to (especially in the winter).

Ohhhh Briannnnnn!!!!!

[Noto]

I keep coming back to the tensioner...not the pulley itself, but the tensioner assembly.



One guy posted elsewhere that the rod the pulley sits on (attached to the tensioner) may bend over time, causing  the pulley to not sit completely straight.  This wears the pulley bearing down, causing it to leak and fail.

That seems plausible to me, but not so easy to determine.  Hmm.

[Fobroader]

[Great_Big_Abyss]

You're starting to take what is known as the 'shotgun approach' to car mechanics.  I.E. replacing a bunch of parts until the symptom goes away.  It is highly effective, yet also highly expensive and time consuming.

Seeing as diagnosis is often the hardest part of mechanical work, it may not be a terrible idea to go to a mechanic and pay him $50-$100 to diagnose the issue.  Once he asks if you want him to fix it, if it is then cheaper for you to do it, you can tell him no thank you.

[Noto]

I thought about doing that, but it seems like a bunch of folk go to Mazda dealerships and get suggestions from exhaust issues to vacuum issues to heat shields to engine mounts to alternators...etc.

Here's my thinking:

I changed the pulley.  It was dead silent.  Perfect.  Two days later, back to the same issue.  My guess is that if I pop this pulley off (which I'll do this weekend - to avoid working in the dark), it'll look like the old one did.

If the tensioner is a POS and the bolt the pulley sits on is, indeed, warped like one guy posted, it'll just eat through pulleys.  Nobody who has replaced the pulley alone has reported that the fix lasted forever...most say another ~10,000mi or so.  Those who replace the tensioner do so with the same OEM sh!t part.  If I'm doing the changeover, I'm going for a higher-quality part.

...but replacing the tensioner now is a $140 (shipped) 'fix' that I still won't know if it'll will work or not.

[rrocket]

I thought about doing that, but it seems like a bunch of folk go to Mazda dealerships and get suggestions from exhaust issues to vacuum issues to heat shields to engine mounts to alternators...etc.

Here's my thinking:

I changed the pulley.  It was dead silent.  Perfect.  Two days later, back to the same issue.  My guess is that if I pop this pulley off (which I'll do this weekend - to avoid working in the dark), it'll look like the old one did.

If the tensioner is a POS and the bolt the pulley sits on is, indeed, warped like one guy posted, it'll just eat through pulleys.  Nobody who has replaced the pulley alone has reported that the fix lasted forever...most say another ~10,000mi or so.  Those who replace the tensioner do so with the same OEM sh!t part.  If I'm doing the changeover, I'm going for a higher-quality part.

...but replacing the tensioner now is a $140 (shipped) 'fix' that I still won't know if it'll will work or not.

I'd be extremely shocked if a new bearing got toasted in 2 days of minimal driving.

[Noto]

I know...right?

...but then what other explanation is there for it being dead silent for two days, then all of a sudden back to the same sh!t?

[rrocket]

I know...right?

...but then what other explanation is there for it being dead silent for two days, then all of a sudden back to the same sh!t?

Lift the belt off the pulley. Check for play. Again.

[Noto]

Lift the belt off the pulley. Check for play. Again.

My guess is that if I pop this pulley off (which I'll do this weekend - to avoid working in the dark), it'll look like the old one did.

That's the plan.

...but then what's the explanation if there's play in the pulley?  It's brand new, non-OEM part (apparently a better design).  So what gives?

[rrocket]

Lift the belt off the pulley. Check for play. Again.

My guess is that if I pop this pulley off (which I'll do this weekend - to avoid working in the dark), it'll look like the old one did.

That's the plan.

...but then what's the explanation if there's play in the pulley?  It's brand new, non-OEM part (apparently a better design).  So what gives?

The only thing I see roasting a bearing so quick might be misalignment. But you'd see evidence of that on the belt IMO.

I wonder if the belt groove was worn, however minor from the previous wobbly bearing. You put new pulley on. Belt now rides on new pulley, touching on other parts of the grooves. It's quiet. A day or two passes, and now those grooves are worn back to the previously worn in grooves. Squeak is back.

I honestly have my doubts about that hypothesis though.

I still can't get my head around wearing out a new pulley so quickly. Bearings aren't exactly frail items.

[Fobroader]

I still think its a belt issue.

[rrocket]

I still think its a belt issue.

It's certainly a cheap fix you undertake...are least the belt riding on the idler..

[Weels]

You're starting to take what is known as the 'shotgun approach' to car mechanics.  I.E. replacing a bunch of parts until the symptom goes away.  It is highly effective, yet also highly expensive and time consuming.

Seeing as diagnosis is often the hardest part of mechanical work, it may not be a terrible idea to go to a mechanic and pay him $50-$100 to diagnose the issue.  Once he asks if you want him to fix it, if it is then cheaper for you to do it, you can tell him no thank you.

I'm with GBA here.

Eventually you'll find the guilty part, but might end up spending enough where it would cheaper to just buy that R I posted. 
Plus if you get me involved, I'll just stand there watching you wrench whilst drinking all your beer, so factor in that expense too.   

Forget the Mazda dealer (although the one here in Guelph is excellent in my experience).
Here's a good indy garage. If I had kept the Subaru, I was going to start using them for oil changes, head gasket replacements    , etc. 
Surely they can diagnose the issue & if you want them to do the repair, won't hose you.

http://www.collegeauto.aaro.ca/

[rrocket]

You're starting to take what is known as the 'shotgun approach' to car mechanics.  I.E. replacing a bunch of parts until the symptom goes away.  It is highly effective, yet also highly expensive and time consuming.

Seeing as diagnosis is often the hardest part of mechanical work, it may not be a terrible idea to go to a mechanic and pay him $50-$100 to diagnose the issue.  Once he asks if you want him to fix it, if it is then cheaper for you to do it, you can tell him no thank you.

I'm with GBA here.

Eventually you'll find the guilty part, but might end up spending enough where it would cheaper to just buy that R I posted. 
Plus if you get me involved, I'll just stand there watching you wrench whilst drinking all your beer, so factor in that expense too.   

Forget the Mazda dealer (although the one here in Guelph is excellent in my experience).
Here's a good indy garage. If I had kept the Subaru, I was going to start using them for oil changes, head gasket replacements    , etc. 
Surely they can diagnose the issue & if you want them to do the repair, won't hose you.

http://www.collegeauto.aaro.ca/

I don't disagree with this for some items.

But I like what NoTo did here..the pulley was cheap and easy, as is a belt. If he's wrong, he's out a few bucks for a pulley and a belt that likely needed changing anyways.

I'd say if these don't fix it, then pursue getting an expert opinion.

[EV-Light]

Oh FFS, squeak is still present now only at 1,500rpm. Much better, but still there. I'm guessing the belts need changing.  Summer project.

I warned you a few posts ago...it’s hard to diagnose without actually hearing the noise.

Record it for us?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Noto]

..the pulley was cheap and easy, as is a belt. If he's wrong, he's out a few bucks for a pulley and a belt that likely needed changing anyways.

I'd say if these don't fix it, then pursue getting an expert opinion.

I agree - I'm not going to chase after this and continuously buy expensive parts until I give up.  Cheap, easy stuff, for sure.  Once it gets pricier, I'll seek out the expertise of those with far greater knowledge (and tools) than my own.

I honestly can't record the sound unless I have a second person to help, and the wife won't do it.

OH BRIANNNNN!!!!!!!!!    I've got LOTS of beer.

[rrocket]

, and the wife won't do it.

A wife that won't help you for 2 minutes?

I bet if it was her car squeaking she'd be Helpy Helperson!