You don’t want to exceed the mileage allowance because it’s both expensive – typically at least 25 cents per km over the agreed maximum – and essentially non-negotiable.
NOPE. Currently anything at Ford is 15 cents, Toyota ranges between 12 -15 cents. My wife's 2016 Maxima is 10 cents on a 48/80 lease.
In the week before your lease return date, spend the time and money to get your car professionally cleaned and detailed. Proper detailing not only leaves the car clean (nothing says “my driver didn’t care for me” like a dirty car)
NOPE. What you want is that typical layer of atmospheric filth that builds up on a car after a month. Winter is a great time for returns.
OK, here is what most don't understand and this only applies to Leasees that are either leasing or buying another vehicle, new or used from a DEALER. The leased vehicle nearing the end of the term is no different than an owned vehicle in as much as they get traded in on something else. The Leasee finds another vehicle, new, used, leased .... matters not, and they make a deal and the old leased vehicle gets handed over to the selling Dealer and they then contact the Leasing Company and they buy out the Lease in total and they then sell it off somewhere.
Now the leased vehicle (the trade) may have negative equity attached to it, but that is no different than a "owned" trade in with a big lien on it. So the point is that lease end "inspections" and the tit for tat about "condition" can be avoided. It's advantageous to lease something that has good demand used for things to work smootly. My wife's 2012 Camry Hybrid was a 48 mth/80000 km lease and the total lease buyout was covered after 43 mths @78,000 km. That's to say that the wholesale on the car at that time equaled the buyout from Toyota Finance. However, most vehicles within a month of their lease termination should have a wholesale value equal to their "buyout".
