Author Topic: 0W-20 -best for fuel economy, but what about the engine longevity? (Read 1241 times)

EV Dan · « **on:** December 02, 2011, 10:22:55 pm »

I might be picking up a new car soon. I don't want to tell what it is until I take delivery. I hope everything works out smoothly.

Please click on the attached image....

My question is this. Is thicker oil, like Castrol 0W-30 would be actually better for the engine in summer, when towing or driving at 120kph? I understand it might somewhat reduce my mileage, but who cares if the engine gets better protection and lasts longer. Another reason for use of 0W-30 is I read here it belongs to a "better" group of synthetics.
Any expert opinions or real life experiences?

articsteve · « **Reply #1 on:** December 03, 2011, 12:46:24 am »

0W-20 Dino is an improvement over the old 10W30 crap no question, but it is a thin oil. The "0" is great for winter, but the "20" sucks for summer and I'm talking cool Canadian summers (not Texas!).

I've had the Esso/Exon Group 4 0W30 put into my wife's Camry since new even though I could have had the Toyota bulk stuff for free.

The 0W30 Castrol you mention; is that the Euro stuff or the North American stuff?

airbalancer · « **Reply #2 on:** December 03, 2011, 05:30:52 am »

so which Toyota you getting, as 0w-20 is their stock oil

there a thread that was start 2 years ago http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?hl=en&client=ms-palm-webOS&channel=iss&q=cache:aUttv2Y6fIYJ:http://www.autos.ca/forum/index.php?topic=64665.0+0w-20+priuschat&ct=comm

tortoise · « **Reply #3 on:** December 03, 2011, 08:57:29 am »

Quote from: articsteve on December 03, 2011, 12:46:24 am

The 0W30 Castrol you mention; is that the Euro stuff or the North American stuff?

"Made in Germany".

EV Dan · « **Reply #4 on:** December 03, 2011, 09:28:10 am »

AB: link doesn't work

Tortoise: Thanks. Yes, that's the one I've seen.

AS: It is German, so I guess group 4, whatever that means. Do you think it may void manuf. warranty if one uses oil other than marked on the cap?

Quote

so which Toyota you getting

Can't say yet

.. but it's got a modern V6

rrocket · « **Reply #5 on:** December 03, 2011, 09:34:02 am »

I disagree what AS says....but I'm talking quality synthetics. In that case, there is virtually no difference in wear properties. Viscosity at temperature are fairly similar too. I've included links below for the specs on Amsoil 0W20 vs 0W30. They are quite similar.

I ran Amsoil 0W20 in my Lexus IS350 for most of the duration I owned it. The car had 200,000kms on it when I sold it. When the engine was opened up for the valve spring replacement recall at ~190,000kms, there was no discernible wear on the major components. I even held the camshafts in my hand and they looked as new. No part I inspected showed any wear on it. As you know, my car was a frequent visitor to the track, was modded and driven vigorously most every time I was it in. I also live a few miles from the most southern point of Canada and because of our extremely hot summers, our avg. yearly temp is among the highest in Canada. Summer temps here are regularly in the 90s and sometimes hit 100. I'm sure I would have uncovered any temperature related issues.

Although they recommended a 25,000 MILES oil change intervals with the oil, I was changing it around 10-15,000kms. Again..no worries and my oil analysis showed no wear and recommended I increase my interval between changes. Based on that, I think I could have pushed my intervals to 25,000kms.

I'm quite certain if there was a limitation to the Amsoil 0W20 oil, I would have found it based on the rigorous use of my car, and if I were you I wouldn't hesitate to use it.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/asm.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/azo.aspx

rrocket · « **Reply #6 on:** December 03, 2011, 09:56:08 am »

Quote from: EV Dan on December 02, 2011, 10:22:55 pm

I understand it might somewhat reduce my mileage, but who cares if the engine gets better protection and lasts longer.

Hmmm..for someone always carping about cutting down on fossil fuels and using EVs, I thought you'd be the first guy to care!!

EV Dan · « **Reply #7 on:** December 03, 2011, 10:44:57 am »

Quote from: rrocket on December 03, 2011, 09:56:08 am

Quote from: EV Dan on December 02, 2011, 10:22:55 pm
I understand it might somewhat reduce my mileage, but who cares if the engine gets better protection and lasts longer.

Hmmm..for someone always carping about cutting down on fossil fuels and using EVs, I thought you'd be the first guy to care!!

Al Gore syndrome I guess. I'd fly a heli every day if it helped to spread the message

p.s. We offer triple glazed windows, so my carbon footprint is offset

EV Dan · « **Reply #8 on:** December 03, 2011, 02:42:41 pm »

RR, I wonder how Amsoil 0W-20 (group4) would compare on the same set of tests to US made 0W-20 Castrol or similar of the Group 3.

rrocket · « **Reply #9 on:** December 03, 2011, 02:49:02 pm »

Quote from: EV Dan on December 03, 2011, 02:42:41 pm

RR, I wonder how Amsoil 0W-20 (group4) would compare on the same set of tests to US made 0W-20 Castrol or similar of the Group 3.

It's Group IV, so it would be a bit better. What I like is the distribution for Amsoil. There several people in every city. Had a neighbor who was a distributor...so it worked out great!!

ktm525 · « **Reply #10 on:** December 03, 2011, 03:00:51 pm »

A few comments:

-German Castrol 0W-30 is almost a 40 weight. about a 0W-38.

- Generally the wider the cold and hot vis. spread the quicker it will "breakdown" ie. lose upper vis.
ex. a 5W-20 has a 15 spread while 0w-20 has a 20.

-Cold viscosity is not a linear relationship with temp. German Castrol 0W-30 has a lower ultimate cold flow limit (compared to a 5W) but it actually has a higher viscosity than many 5W-20/30's in the typical winter cold temps (around -20ish).

If I lived where the summer was HOT and I was baggiing the engine for extended periods I would run a quality synthertic 5W-30 in the summer and a 0W-20 (Castrol Edge) in the winter.

airbalancer · « **Reply #11 on:** December 03, 2011, 05:00:32 pm »

http://www.autos.ca/forum/index.php/topic,64665.0.html

I do not what that first link was to, must be that dam autocorrect

articsteve · « **Reply #12 on:** December 03, 2011, 11:41:57 pm »

I disagree what AS says....but I'm talking quality synthetics

I am was responding to the use of normal 0W20 Toyota dino bulk oil. It's a compromise oil.

articsteve · « **Reply #13 on:** December 03, 2011, 11:57:34 pm »

AS: It is German, so I guess group 4, whatever that means. Do you think it may void manuf. warranty if one uses oil other than marked on the cap?

Not if the dealer puts it in. It gets entered into the Toyota system simply as an oil and filter service and that's all that is necessary. If it's done elsewhere and you are relying on "receipts" then warranty work would be discretionary relating to the internals of the motor.

However, I think it's best to stick to an 0W20 or 0W30 synthetic rather than say a 5W30 for warranty purposes.

I bought a case of this 0W30 August/2011 for $5.68 litre plus tax.

bridgecity · « **Reply #14 on:** December 04, 2011, 01:37:20 am »

Fack, run 5-20 and fuggetaboutit

airbalancer · « **Reply #15 on:** December 04, 2011, 07:55:45 am »

is not Toyota going 0w-20 syn oil in all the cars, I remember hearing that somewhere

Minou · « **Reply #16 on:** December 05, 2011, 03:50:14 pm »

Quote from: bridgecity on December 04, 2011, 01:37:20 am

Fack, run 5-20 and fuggetaboutit

X2. Cheap and widely available in any brand, dino or Group III syn.

richink · « **Reply #17 on:** December 07, 2011, 11:35:10 am »

I dunno, this applies to everything in general about car maintenance, but the manufacturer's typically recommend something for a reason.

Honda recommends "regular" 5w20, that's what it gets and no issues so far at 245,000 km

Volvo & VW both reccommend "regular" 10w30, that's what they both get and 240,000 km and 23 years old with no issues.

I try to stick to name brands like Castrol or Penzoil, generally whatever is cheapest on the shelf at WalMart minus their no-name brands.

I don't fudge around with AMSoil, synthetics, additives, cleaners, different grades or whatever other thing you can throw in there, I just think that a car's engine is too expensive to repair if you do something other than what the manufacturer has recommended and then something blows up.

ktm525 · « **Reply #18 on:** December 07, 2011, 11:48:13 am »

Quote from: richink on December 07, 2011, 11:35:10 am

I dunno, this applies to everything in general about car maintenance, but the manufacturer's typically recommend something for a reason.

Honda recommends "regular" 5w20, that's what it gets and no issues so far at 245,000 km

Volvo & VW both reccommend "regular" 10w30, that's what they both get and 240,000 km and 23 years old with no issues.

I try to stick to name brands like Castrol or Penzoil, generally whatever is cheapest on the shelf at WalMart minus their no-name brands.

I don't fudge around with AMSoil, synthetics, additives, cleaners, different grades or whatever other thing you can throw in there, I just think that a car's engine is too expensive to repair if you do something other than what the manufacturer has recommended and then something blows up.

Volvo doesn't specify a 10W-30 in their 2.5T do they? The engine on the old V70R used to get so damn hot I wouldn't dream of running a group II dino in there. To each his own I suppose.

safristi · « **Reply #19 on:** December 07, 2011, 11:50:56 am »

I imagine Manufacturers put the cheapest GO TO oil in their New Cars ..just as they do with the TYRES...do YOU SERIOUSLY BELIEVE the engine will BLOW UP if you use a superior synthetic in it....