Topic: Winter Storage

[Snowman]

I'm starting to look at winter storage options for the S2000. Since I never had to put a car in storage before I am looking for sugestions. I will uses a self storage space with no heating and I'm thinking the following will be okay:

1. Add fuel stabilizer on last tank of fuel and fill.
2. Wash and store car on a dry day.
3. Inflate tires to maximum recommended pressure, perhaps a tad more.
4. Remove battery and place on trickle charger in basement workshop back at house.
5. Toss in a few of them moisture absorbing packs in the interior and trunk.
6. Use a car cover that was used by previous owner.

Anything else?

[Mike]

Real men drive their S2000's in the winter    None of this 'I have an STI for the winter though", you'll be Ken Block by March

[bridgecity]

Stuff some bounce sheets in areas where you think mice might invade (I've read many places that this keeps them out, trying it on my travel trailer this year); engine compartment, trunk, etc.  I don't think you'd want to place them in the interior, wouldn't be a smell I'd want inside.  Better than dead mice I guess.

[rrocket]

Real men drive their S2000's in the winter    None of this 'I have an STI for the winter though", you'll be Ken Block by March

You mean he's going to be using child labor to work in his factories like Ken Block does?   

[rrocket]

1) Put the car on some pieces of plywood instead of directly on the cold cement floor.
2) Make sure the car has FRESH oil in it.  Used oil can become acidic and/or have moisture in it (by end of storage) which could corrode the oil pan.  Change it in the spring.
3) Pop the spark plugs out and put a dollop of oil down each cylinder.  Put sprak plugs back in.

2 and 3 might be overkill though.

I've also been told to have the windows very, very slightly cracked for ventilation. Not sure how true this one is though..

[Mike]

Nitrogen in the tires would be a plus as well, no?  Keep condensation and water pooling out of the tires?

[ktm525]

You parking it outside?

For the P1800 it gets some fuel stabilizer. Thats it.

[Gardiner Westbound]

Got this from Phil Bailey's blog several years ago.

Follow this procedure if you are storing a car for a few weeks or months
 
1. An oil change, unless the oil is high priced synthetic and comparatively new.

2. A good waxing and cleaning inside and out

3. Add fuel stabilizer to a half tank of gas. Run the engine until the stabilizer reaches the injectors, about one minute or so. Five minutes is more than enough. The half tank of gas will allow you to run down the road when you are putting the car back in service and top it up with high test until that whole tank of fuel is gone. Then go back to using regular fuel. If your car uses high test anyway, it's not a good idea to have too much fuel in the tank.

4. Inflate the tires to a safe but higher than normal pressure, 38 psi is good. Do not put the car on blocks. It exposes the shock absorber pistons to moisture and is not worth the trouble.

5. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and write a note to yourself in next year's calendar to charge the battery for about four hours on the first of each month.

Do NOT be tempted to start the engine frequently for a few minutes. This is a really bad practice.

When you put the car back in service pull the fuse for the fuel pump and crank the engine over until some slight amount of oil pressure starts to show on the gauge or the oil pressure light stays off. Put the fuse back in and the engine should fire.

Exceptions

1. Never disconnect the battery or allow it to run-flat on late model cars such as BMWs with I-Drive and Mercedes with the Command system, or any car with electronic controls such as a stability system. If you do, the car will have to be towed to the dealer for a full day of expensive reprogramming!

2. If you have a theft protected radio that goes into "fault" mode if the power is disconnected, make certain you have the restart code for your unit.

3. To avoid these dramas with computer programming use a 1-amp trickle charger connected permanently to the battery. If your storage area lacks electrical power you have no choice but to start the car every two weeks or so and let it run for about twenty minutes. Snow is not harmful to your car, but salt is. Let the car run in your driveway or somewhere else without salt slush.

4. Don't be tempted to store the car outside. Creeping dampness will permeate every part of the car and the brake rotors will be toast.

[rrocket]

3. Add fuel stabilizer to a half tank of gas. Run the engine until the stabilizer reaches the injectors, about one minute or so. Five minutes is more than enough. The half tank of gas will allow you to run down the road when you are putting the car back in service and top it up with high test until that whole tank of fuel is gone. Then go back to using regular fuel. If your car uses high test anyway, it's not a good idea to have too much fuel in the tank.

I've read putting only half a tank of gas could allow condensation to form and the portion of the tank not covered by fuel could corrode some.  And this was from classic car magazines.

[Dexer]

I wouldn't overthink it.

I've been storing the Triumph in my open car port for 7 months every year since 1994.

In the Fall, park it, take the battery out. In the Spring, put the battery in and drive it.

[Snowman]

You parking it outside?

For the P1800 it gets some fuel stabilizer. Thats it.

No it will be in a 8'wide x15'long self storage unit with a concrete floor.

[blur911]

I wouldn't overthink it.

I've been storing the Triumph in my open car port for 7 months every year since 1994.

In the Fall, park it, take the battery out. In the Spring, put the battery in and drive it.

Yeah, if its only a few months you don't have to do much.

Make sure the fuel you leave in the tank has no ethanol in it.
I usually put down cardboard or plywood as Wing suggested to keep dampness and condensation from the underside. Pump up the tires a bit and if there are no electronic problems with it, remove the battery as you were planning.

[PJungnitsch]

Change oil. The acids and water in the old oil can corrode rings and bearings.

Fill the tank full to avoid condensation, use ethanol free gas if possible.

If there's any chance at all of mice getting in the storage facility, put a good hi capacity trap in the corner. A 5 gal pail with some coolant in the bottom will kill mice all winter.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jezQKOl5q-w

Mice literally 'ate' my old 510 in storage, there's nothing worse.

[Blue01]

For 6 months of the year I store my motorcycle and for the other 6 months I store my car.  This is what I do:

1. Wash and wax the vehicle.  Nice to have it clean 6 months later.
2. Change the oil.  Therefore no moisture in the engine.
3. Add Stabil to the full gas tank.  Keeps the gas "fresh".
4. Slightly over-inflate the tires.  They usually lose 10% in 6 months.
5. Hook up the Battery Tender, with the battery in the car.  No need then to reset the clock, radio, etc. at start-up
6. Cover the vehicle.  Keeps the cats from marking up the surface.

I've been doing this for the past 7 or 8 years with great success.

[Sir Osis of Liver]

For 6 months of the year I store my motorcycle and for the other 6 months I store my car.  This is what I do:

1. Wash and wax the vehicle.  Nice to have it clean 6 months later.
2. Change the oil.  Therefore no moisture in the engine.
3. Add Stabil to the full gas tank.  Keeps the gas "fresh".
4. Slightly over-inflate the tires.  They usually lose 10% in 6 months.
5. Hook up the Battery Tender, with the battery in the car.  No need then to reset the clock, radio, etc. at start-up
6. Cover the vehicle.  Keeps the cats from marking up the surface.

I've been doing this for the past 7 or 8 years with great success.

 

Same here. Full tank of gas is important, especially back east where you can get pretty big temperature swings over winter. The condensate will sit in the bottom of the tank and rot it out. Real common problem with some of the old "barn bikes" I've fixed up over the years.

I like to get the weight off the tires, less chance of a lingering flat spots. Milk crate or centre stand for bikes, jackstands for cars. This is a bigger deal if storage is longer, overwinter it's kind of a preference than a necessity.

[Gardiner Westbound]

For 6 months of the year I store my motorcycle and for the other 6 months I store my car.  This is what I do:

1. Wash and wax the vehicle.  Nice to have it clean 6 months later.
2. Change the oil.  Therefore no moisture in the engine.
3. Add Stabil to the full gas tank.  Keeps the gas "fresh".
4. Slightly over-inflate the tires.  They usually lose 10% in 6 months.
5. Hook up the Battery Tender, with the battery in the car.  No need then to reset the clock, radio, etc. at start-up
6. Cover the vehicle.  Keeps the cats from marking up the surface.

I've been doing this for the past 7 or 8 years with great success.

 

Same here. Full tank of gas is important, especially back east where you can get pretty big temperature swings over winter. The condensate will sit in the bottom of the tank and rot it out. Real common problem with some of the old "barn bikes" I've fixed up over the years.

I like to get the weight off the tires, less chance of a lingering flat spots. Milk crate or centre stand for bikes, jackstands for cars. This is a bigger deal if storage is longer, overwinter it's kind of a preference than a necessity.

If you store the car with the fuel tank full make sure it's filled with ethanol-free gasoline, Esso or Shell premium. Gasohol has the shelf life of a tomato. Its volatile components waft away quickly prejudicing engine startability and performance.

[No H2O]

Hook up the Battery Tender, with the battery in the car.

I'd make sure the battery maintainer has a "winter" mode such as the CTEK charger (available at CTC) has. A battery in a cold location needs a higher charge voltage to be and remain fully charged. A fully charged battery has a longer life.

My CTEK can be set for 14.4 and 14.7V.

[slybry]

I may leave my 2011 .BMW 328 in heated garage for 2 1/2 months this winter. I will clean & wax it, put in fuel stabilizer and pump up pressure in tires. Do you think there is any need for me to worry about battery for this length of time? I do not have I-Drive in car.

[wing]

For 6 years now...

I put car in garage, put cover on.  Come sprint I charge battery and start it.  That's it... I'm lazy.

Some years I put stabilizer in it, some years I did not.  Put some in for peace of mind.  Take battery out so you don't have to charge it in the spring.  Get the code for you radio first though!

[ktm525]

For 6 years now...

I put car in garage, put cover on.  Come sprint I charge battery and start it.  That's it... I'm lazy.

Some years I put stabilizer in it, some years I did not.  Put some in for peace of mind.  Take battery out so you don't have to charge it in the spring.  Get the code for you radio first though!

Deal with one gummed carburator and you will always remember the stabilizer. This is worse on motorcycles and lawn equip. though and typically the pilot jet and sometimes sticking floats.