Author Topic: Planning to part away with my Mazda3 (Read 466 times)

carcrazy · « **on:** August 19, 2011, 05:00:59 pm »

My thought is to replace my Mazda3 sometime in April-May 2012 timeframe, but it still depends on some unknowns.

My dilemma at this time comes from the fact that I need to replace the tires this fall and I don't know what makes more sense. I have three options in mind:
1. Buy average all-season new tires so when I sell/trade the car I can get it certified (safety).
2. Buy a set of used winter tires (e.g. Kijiji) which may be cheaper than a new set of A/S.
3. Drive the ones I have now although they are not safe anymore for winter driving (down in thread depth and they will be 4 years old in Nov) –I’m not entertaining this option.

Normally I would also change the coolant at the next service, but should I still do it? It’s not a must just that it’s already around 2 years old or so I believe (need to double-check).

I'm not sure if I will trade the car in or sell it privately yet. I tend to believe that the fact I recently changed the coolant and other fluids would not make any difference for the price I get for the car.
With the tires, I would need them replaced anyway in order to get the car certified.

@Arctic and Cord

1. If I go the trade-in route, does it really matter when it comes to the trade in value if I safety and emission test the car prior the trade-in? It’s about $200 I think and I know it would pass with new tires.

2. My car is in very good condition (interior is mint), it doesn't show rust and it was well maintained (all records available).
It's a 2005 Mazda3 GT 4AT sedan with 109K (by Apr-May next year could be up to 125K give or take). How much should I expect for it in trade in today?
Any prediction for 8 months and 16K later?

Cord · « **Reply #1 on:** August 19, 2011, 05:31:58 pm »

Quote

1. If I go the trade-in route, does it really matter when it comes to the trade in value if I safety and emission test the car prior the trade-in? It’s about $200 I think and I know it would pass with new tires.

It might give me a little more confidence in taking it on trade. But on this value of car, probably wouldn't make much difference. Save your $200. (We don't do emission tests here so not sure what might be required to make a failing car pass.)

Quote

2. My car is in very good condition (interior is mint), it doesn't show rust and it was well maintained (all records available).
It's a 2005 Mazda3 GT 4AT sedan with 109K (by Apr-May next year could be up to 125K give or take). How much should I expect for it in trade in today?
Any prediction for 8 months and 16K later?

Sounds like about a $6000 trade value around here. Maybe $7000 with new tires. $500-$1000 less next year?

rrocket · « **Reply #2 on:** August 19, 2011, 05:38:49 pm »

Buy used/take off tires. Can get some very nice tires for about $25-$35 ea. if your aim is just getting a couple season out of them or for a safety. At least around here you can.

airbalancer · « **Reply #3 on:** August 19, 2011, 05:43:38 pm »

go to Canadian Black book, though Toyota.ca or other sites
pick the low number and think anything is a bonus, my tranny was a bit screwed up and brakes, and rust on the box but never in an accident
They gave me 5500.

it is a 7.5 year old car, Expect the lowest, number
Cord, I think your price is high

Cord · « **Reply #4 on:** August 19, 2011, 05:48:58 pm »

Quote

Cord, I think your price is high

Maybe for there it is. Prices are generally higher here than anywhere in Canada. Retail for these cars around here is 11-12000.

carcrazy · « **Reply #5 on:** August 19, 2011, 07:27:41 pm »

CBB shows $5800-$7450 for the vehicle. It sounds like I'm better of selling private.
Even if I get top trade-in $$$ ($7000-$7500) and the tax savings on the new car it's still on the lower side of the median retail range ($8000-$9000).

carcrazy · « **Reply #6 on:** August 19, 2011, 07:39:47 pm »

Quote from: rrocket on August 19, 2011, 05:38:49 pm

Buy used/take off tires. Can get some very nice tires for about $25-$35 ea. if your aim is just getting a couple season out of them or for a safety. At least around here you can.

It sounds like the rational option. In this scenario, I need something to get me through this winter safely and have enough thread left in the spring to be able to pass safety.
Do you know an online source?

carcrazy · « **Reply #7 on:** August 19, 2011, 07:42:02 pm »

Quote from: airbalancer on August 19, 2011, 05:43:38 pm

it is a 7.5 year old car, Expect the lowest, number
Cord, I think your price is high

It's 6.5 years old car and Cord's price is on the low side of the BBC.

airbalancer · « **Reply #8 on:** August 19, 2011, 07:45:40 pm »

Quote from: carcrazy on August 19, 2011, 07:42:02 pm

Quote from: airbalancer on August 19, 2011, 05:43:38 pm

it is a 7.5 year old car, Expect the lowest, number
Cord, I think your price is high

It's 6.5 years old car and Cord's price is on the low side of the BBC.

I was going by the fact you wanted to get rid of next year
Also Mazda has $500 off and 0/60 on , this will drop prices on used 3's

carcrazy · « **Reply #9 on:** August 19, 2011, 08:36:51 pm »

Quote from: airbalancer on August 19, 2011, 07:45:40 pm

Quote from: carcrazy on August 19, 2011, 07:42:02 pm
Quote from: airbalancer on August 19, 2011, 05:43:38 pm

it is a 7.5 year old car, Expect the lowest, number
Cord, I think your price is high

It's 6.5 years old car and Cord's price is on the low side of the BBC.
I was going by the fact you wanted to get rid of next year
Also Mazda has $500 off and 0/60 on , this will drop prices on used 3's

Gotcha.

sirAQUAMAN64 · « **Reply #10 on:** August 23, 2011, 01:40:36 pm »

I'd go for A/S or snows, used if you can find 'em. Quite honestly I've had good luck buying snows & alloys, using them for a season or two, then selling for similar to what I bought them for. But that may not be an option if your current A/S tires wouldn't pass safety.

And I'd just to routine oil, lube, filter, and tire rotation. Assuming timing belt was done or is it a chain (think that engine has a belt)?

Looking forward to what you wind up buying

carcrazy · « **Reply #11 on:** August 23, 2011, 02:25:59 pm »

I'm leaning towards new A/S (Bridgestone Potenza @ Costco $130+HST balanced & installed w/ Costco Advantage).

The current tires must go by November. The reason I'm thinking new, but average A/S is because I need to drive them through the winter and it's bad enough to drive on A/S mind you used. Used winters would be another option, but in case I decide to keep the car few month longer (past April) I'm stuck with winter tires in warm weather.

As for the new car, it looks like Focus Titanium hatch w/cloth and Navi in perl white or yellow blaze (first choice), but still on the fence. Now I'm thinking SEL hatch as well as it doesn't have the troublesome MFT system.
My biggest concern is the build quality of the car. I'd like to allow for at least full production year before I buy a US/UAW made car.

I'll see what the next few months will bring.

articsteve · « **Reply #12 on:** August 23, 2011, 02:30:51 pm »

CarCrazy:

Do not torment yourself with what the wholesale of your car is. You're gonna get sh*t for it. Consider it a private sale. Example: 2006 Civic sedan DXG auto. 90K km. Mint and still under warranty. Customer had just installed new Michelins and front rotors and pads intending to give to daughter but that changed. Received $5200. trade in on a 40K new vehicle purchase (high gross vehicle so room to move on the trade). Went back out the door at $8900. Your 2005 Mazda is worth about $4000. on a straight up wholesale exchange.

CBB shows $5800-$7450 for the vehicle MINUS reconditioning costs ($2000 RETAIL: tires/brakes/e test/safety/missing keys/check engine lights/other numerous repairs).

The high CBB values are reserved for cars that have very low mileage. Those vehicles that do 10K a year or less.

I'd go to Wally World and buy a new set of Nexen all seasons. They will still be in great condition for your private sale next year. Then price your Mazda to sell on Trader and Kijiji.

articsteve · « **Reply #13 on:** August 23, 2011, 02:34:44 pm »

I'm leaning towards new A/S (Bridgestone Potenza @ Costco $130+HST balanced & installed w/ Costco Advantage).

Ya, something like that. But those Potenza aren't the chunkiest AS. I'd go for something cheaper at Costco and save $150. Next buyer will not care and after they beat you down you will be glad that you went cheaper.

aaronk · « **Reply #14 on:** August 23, 2011, 02:45:41 pm »

Quote from: articsteve on August 23, 2011, 02:30:51 pm

CarCrazy:

Your 2005 Mazda is worth about $4000. on a straight up wholesale exchange.

carcrazy · « **Reply #15 on:** August 23, 2011, 02:48:16 pm »

Thanks for the advice Steve.

I don't have high hopes for the trade in but I was curious how much I could fetch for it in this scenario. The car is in very good shape, all maintenance done, changed fluids (tranny, steering, and perhaps coolant) and brakes this year. No mechanical "needs" at this point. With new tires I can certify the car with confidence (I just did the drive clean in April 2011 with no issues).
The interior of the car is mint (I just cleand it up this weekend and it looks almost like new except for few minor scuffs on the plastic door sills) and it doesn't show the usual rust (fixed in April). The exterior is in good shape too; I touched up the paint chips every year and I don't have major dings or scratches.

My point is that the dealer would not have to put one penny to prepare the car for retail hence, IF I go this route, I would only trade in for $6000+.

The way I look at it:
1. trade-in: $6000 for example plus the tax savings on the new car for that amount which is $780 for a total of $6780
OR
2. private sale: $7000 for example.

If the difference is minimal and it saves me some hassle associated with the private sale, it might be worth trading in.

BTW: how much is the safety certification fee? I thought is about $150; is that right?

Thanks for the Nexen suggestion. I'll look into it.

TopGun · « **Reply #16 on:** August 23, 2011, 02:59:23 pm »

Quote from: articsteve on August 23, 2011, 02:30:51 pm

...Received $5200. trade in on a 40K new vehicle purchase (high gross vehicle so room to move on the trade). Went back out the door at $8900.
...

No wonder the used car guys make a good run. Then...I recall all the Cord stories!

Gosh...$4000...kinda sad to think about it when you look at a new one. Ah well...you only live once.

carcrazy · « **Reply #17 on:** August 23, 2011, 03:04:23 pm »

It looks like the cheapest A/S 205/55R16 89H tire is $110 (Motomaster @ Crappy Tire).

The Bridgestone Potenza @ Costco for $115 seems like the best way to go for new A/S. This is the cheapest in this size @ Costco and it seems like elsewhere too.

TireRack is not a better option either in this case. With shipping is about the same as Costco without the extra service (rotation, balancing, flat repair).

carcrazy · « **Reply #18 on:** August 23, 2011, 03:10:26 pm »

Quote from: TopGun on August 23, 2011, 02:59:23 pm

Quote from: articsteve on August 23, 2011, 02:30:51 pm
...Received $5200. trade in on a 40K new vehicle purchase (high gross vehicle so room to move on the trade). Went back out the door at $8900.
...

No wonder the used car guys make a good run. Then...I recall all the Cord stories!

Gosh...$4000...kinda sad to think about it when you look at a new one. Ah well...you only live once.

The question is how much did the dealer have to put in the car to sell it (recondition), but, regardless, the profit is huge.

For me, if I net $7000 on my car next year (7 years and aprx 125K), I'm OK. It works out about $3000/year which I'm content with.
Anything above $7000 is gravy in my books.

johngenx · « **Reply #19 on:** August 23, 2011, 04:01:57 pm »

Here's the thing, like it or not. Dealers don't make much money on most new cars. A Mazda dealer sells whacks of 2 and 3 models, making $500-1000 on each one. Not a lot of money considering carry costs, etc.

So, they make their car money on the used lot. That $8900 car probably sold for $7500-8000 (who has paid asking?) so they probably netted $2500 on the car.

But, there is risk here. They might end up sitting on that car for months.

I know a 2001 Forester, identical to mine (even the colour) that was on a car lot in March of 2008. It's still there. They paid too much for it, priced it too high, and stubbornly decided to keep the price high. Today, they're going to lose money, big time. So, dealers have to be super careful not to overpay, 'cause demand for certain models is tough to determine.

When we went to scope out possible replacements for our Forester, we were driving the Corolla most of the time. Everyone begged us to trade it. Why? It's a vanilla car and there are hundreds for sale. But, they're an easy seller and pricing is super predictable. They could give us $7K for it, price it at $11K, sell it for $10K and net $3K in no time. RAV-4? Even easier.