Author Topic: Getting under the car...  (Read 1004 times)

Offline rrocket

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #20 on: May 24, 2011, 10:17:51 pm »


Rhino ramps are bush league.  They are useful for outdoor use when all you want to do is drive the vehicle up and change the oil as there is just enough room to get your arm under there plus your catch pan.

I can't get my 944 S2 up on a set of circa 50's longish heavy steel ramps that are 100 times better built that Rhino ramps so I don't think that Z4 is going up on a set of Rhinos.

I'm doing a front crank seal and T belt job on my S2 currently.  I'll snap a pic if I can figure out a way to reduce it using just Windows 7.

If I can get a lowered Supra on Rhino ramps, and my friend his Corvette. you can get a Z4 on Rhino.  IF the car is too low, you put a couple of 2x4 in front of the Rhino ramp and that's usually all you need.  And I disagree.  There is much, much more room on Rhino ramps than being able to just get your arm under...

Here's an EVO on Rhino Ramps



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Offline dr_spock

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #21 on: May 24, 2011, 10:27:53 pm »
Or if you prefer to use jackstands.




Offline articsteve

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #22 on: May 24, 2011, 10:57:52 pm »
Here's the pic.  I've been doing this a long time.  :)

Firstly, to be successful which is really all about avoiding frustration you've gotta have room to move around under there particularly your arms.  You need clearance for breaker bars, torches, what have you and you don't get that with Rhino rams on none jacked vehicles.

In the pic you will see just how undersized those "2 ton" jack stands are.  They're fine if you AREN'T working underneath the vehicle!

In that pic that 6x6 is 18 inches.  It won't fit under the car.  I'd say there is about 14 inches under the oil pan.  That is not alot of room to work with both arms.

Are those "6 ton" jack stand over kill ???  Minimum IMO
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Offline mmret

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #23 on: May 24, 2011, 11:25:12 pm »
Here's the pic.  I've been doing this a long time.  :)

Firstly, to be successful which is really all about avoiding frustration you've gotta have room to move around under there particularly your arms.  You need clearance for breaker bars, torches, what have you and you don't get that with Rhino rams on none jacked vehicles.

In the pic you will see just how undersized those "2 ton" jack stands are.  They're fine if you AREN'T working underneath the vehicle!

In that pic that 6x6 is 18 inches.  It won't fit under the car.  I'd say there is about 14 inches under the oil pan.  That is not alot of room to work with both arms.

Are those "6 ton" jack stand over kill ???  Minimum IMO


You have sold me on the 6 ton stands.

However, if you are lifting two wheels from the side of the car...OR lifting from both sides 12" at a time as you write, how does one ensure that the car doesn't tip over because you didn't quite get to the exact balance point on the car? ???

Sorry to be a pain. I am curious how to do this right. :)
« Last Edit: May 24, 2011, 11:31:42 pm by mmret »
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Offline johngenx

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #24 on: May 24, 2011, 11:44:58 pm »
Being skinny with the decent ground clearance of the Scoob, I can get quite a bit done without lifting it.  But, when I do, the burly floor jack and stands come out.  Two reasons:

1. Without a serious jack, I can't overcome the suspension travel of the Forester.

2. Big jack stands are safe and don't cost that much more.
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Offline bridgecity

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #25 on: May 24, 2011, 11:50:37 pm »
Most vehicles have a center jack/lift point at the front and rear.  I jack the front up from this point, place stands, then do the same at the rear if required.
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Offline articsteve

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #26 on: May 24, 2011, 11:59:42 pm »
You'll find from experience that the tipping point doesn't really exist.  On a front engine car like the TSX or Z4 or a Camry for that matter the jack can be located under the front floor mats and the car will be perfectly stable.  Then position the stands.  Wear heavy gloves because those telescoping stands can really do a number on the hands.

Jacking with 1 jack takes much more effort because those 6 ton jacks are about 14 inches min.   So jacking up the car 14 or so inches on one side is a little unnerving at first.  Ideally, with 2 jacks you just lift the car up evenly.  Perhaps 8 inches on each side and then another 6, then place jack stand on all for "corners" and then continue from there.  Quickly you get the feel for it.  I use that 6x6 to lift on the jack.  Spreads the load out and extends the vertical reach of the jack.

Like anything this is a matter of cost vs. need.  It's very tempting to go for those small stands (2 ton) exclusively (some are really poorly constructed (stamped steal)) because one thinks they'll seldom use them.  However, once those 2 ton stands are extended, they IMO, aren't worth the absolutely catastrophic result if they either fail out right or tip over (vehicle siding off).

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« Last Edit: May 25, 2011, 12:01:16 am by articsteve »

Offline Gardiner Westbound

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #27 on: May 25, 2011, 06:07:53 am »
A Cross Beam Floor Jack Adapter, US$43 plus shipping, will lift the side of a car with one floor jack.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-918008/


High lift, drive-on ramps for low profile cars with wide tires are available. They're costly.

http://philstireservice.com/pages/race_ramps.htm
« Last Edit: May 25, 2011, 06:39:33 am by Gardiner Westbound »
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Offline airbalancer

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #28 on: May 25, 2011, 06:15:35 am »
Are there still places that will rent garage space by the hour?

Offline ktm525

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #29 on: May 25, 2011, 11:35:21 am »
Are there still places that will rent garage space by the hour?

 There is in Calgary. With lifts.  Replacing things like seals on jack stands is tough. If you do this type of work often then a four post lift may be the way to go.


Offline No H2O

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #30 on: May 26, 2011, 09:03:11 am »
I found a practical use for hockey pucks.

I place them between the jack or jack stand and the underbody of the car. They prevent metal to metal contact/scraping and any possibility of slippage.
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Offline safristi

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #31 on: May 26, 2011, 09:14:06 am »
..... ???.......HE SHOOTS  HE DOESN"T SCORE that beautiful underbody metal we all like to look at.............. :stick: :think: :P...can we call that RHINOPUCKLASTY......WOTDAPUCK.....
« Last Edit: May 26, 2011, 09:18:14 am by safristi »
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Offline caretaker007

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #32 on: June 08, 2011, 10:03:06 am »


Rhino ramps are bush league.  They are useful for outdoor use when all you want to do is drive the vehicle up and change the oil as there is just enough room to get your arm under there plus your catch pan.

I can't get my 944 S2 up on a set of circa 50's longish heavy steel ramps that are 100 times better built that Rhino ramps so I don't think that Z4 is going up on a set of Rhinos.

I'm doing a front crank seal and T belt job on my S2 currently.  I'll snap a pic if I can figure out a way to reduce it using just Windows 7.

If I can get a lowered Supra on Rhino ramps, and my friend his Corvette. you can get a Z4 on Rhino.  IF the car is too low, you put a couple of 2x4 in front of the Rhino ramp and that's usually all you need.  And I disagree.  There is much, much more room on Rhino ramps than being able to just get your arm under...

Here's an EVO on Rhino Ramps




.. I have a new Rav 4,wondering if the Rino ramps will hold it. (for oil change)Use the ramps all the time on my civic.

Offline ktm525

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Re: Getting under the car...
« Reply #33 on: June 08, 2011, 02:33:42 pm »
CT had some 6T jackstands on an in store sale. Picked em up for $50 (2). They looked huge out of the box but not so big under the mass of the Land Rover.