Topic: New to world of torque wrenches, floor jacks etc.

[Spheric]

I know some of you are experts at swapping over seasonal tires but I have never done that except to occasionally swap out a roadside punctured tire with the spare (and last time that happened was over 10 years ago and used hand tightening only). My question is what tools at a minimum do I need if I was to seasonally change between winter and all-seasons tires myself ?

Right now, all I have is the VW roadside tire tools that came with the vehicle and which sit with the spare tire. The only addition to that is a four –way X metric wheel brace which I got from Walmart last weekend since my existing US brace didn’t have a fitting for the 17mm wheel lug nuts on the Golf. Based on my existing tool set any loosening and tightening of wheel nuts would be done by human power alone.

I’ve heard all about torque wrenches but I’ve never used one, and there are some really bad subjective reviews of some (based on Canadian Tire site reviews), and not much info on availability of matching sockets for the wheel nuts. Also read about impact wrench guns (about only use to loosen nuts never tighten) as well as floor jacks and jack stands.

So, based on tools what options should I look at (and exclude) ?

a) Existing emergency car tool kit & 4 way brace (already have this)
b) Torque wrench ?
c) Impact wrench gun ?
d) Floor jack ?
e) Jack stands ?

Finally I could always have it done at the dealership/tire shop....

[Sir Osis of Liver]

I'm hardly an expert, but, I just use the kit from the Subaru and a Canadian Tire Mastercraft 1/2" torque wrench. I've had it for 15 years or so, and no problems so far.

http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/6/Tools/Wrenches/SpecialtyWrenches/PRDOVR~0588558P/Mastercraft%252B1%25252B2-in%252BDrive%252BTorque%252BWrench.jsp?locale=en

You can spend a lot more on a wrench, but for DIY, it's fine.

It takes me about 15 minutes to do the tire change over.

If you're feeling flush:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=92350&PartNo=ATECH3FR250&group_id=19918&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

[safristi]

Sir Osis I'm waving a NEW $20 Bill @ ya fer the Ranger changeov'r...

 $20 an hour in Sask.(15mins a tyre)..that's wot merchant bankers there earn.....U pay fer the Gas.... ...




 yer orff the HOOK.........I gets Free changovers wif the Can TYRE Nordics........many a place charge $30 fer a SWOP...why dirty yer French Nail manicure......Mach MACHO   Macho MAN that woz farking dirty,messy,smelly and hard..next time i'm riding all year onna Winters......

[ktm525]

Torque wrench: If you are only doing tires then you can get away with a 1/2" indicator type. These go on sale at sears for about $10-$15. Accurate enough for lugs IMO.

Impact wrench: Not needed but I have been known to use the cordless Makita Impact gun I have. On wheels I am being more careful with I loosen by hand. Disconnect ratchet and spin the socket/extension.

Floor jack: I bought a 3 ton BlackJack from Costco. Low profile and has fit underneath the old Volvo V70R (and it was looow) and my current G8. I think it was about $60.

Jack stands. Not really required for tire changes but if you buy some then get some real quality ones. Not pressed bent metal etc.

On seasonal changeovers if I am not crawling under the car I jack up both the front and rear tire on one side at the same time. The large floor jack comes in handy for that. It will even lift an entire side of the Rover and it weighs a gazillion pounds.

[Arthur Dent]

A Cheapo beam style torque wrench is just fine for wheels. Always start threading on the nuts or bolts by hand to avoiding stripping them. Impact wrenches should not be used with wheels IMO - usually way over tightened. Floor jack makes the job easier and definitely recommended but one could do with the the factory jack I guess. Just check your owner's manual for the jacking points - a nice solid area is best - sheet metal floors will bend if you jack in the wrong place. Jack stands are only needed if you are getting under the car.

Princess Auto would have everything you need for less than the cost of one dealer performed swap over.

[articsteve]

You need a floor jack.  Avoid Crappy Tire for those; poor value.

Your floor jack should have pistons that are refillable.  Get a dual piston unit.

You could also use a breaker bar and the right sized 6 point socket.

[Sir Osis of Liver]

You need a floor jack.  Avoid Crappy Tire for those; poor value.

Your floor jack should have pistons that are refillable.  Get a dual piston unit.

You could also use a breaker bar and the right sized 6 point socket.

I forgot about the breaker bar. I have one, it comes in handy if someone else did a rotation and overtorqued the lugnuts.

[safristi]

  i lurves it when ya tawk dirty Nigel...........

[SaskSpecV]

I used a cheap ($20) Sears needle-gauge torque wrench for quite a few years - it was fine for the Spec V wheel changeover, though obviously not real accurate.  I bought a click-type torque wrench from Princess Auto for doing my wife's F150, as the other one doesn't torque high enough - I couldn't believe that the correct torque for the truck wheels is 150 ft-lbs! (compared to 80 ft-lbs for the Sentra).  Princess Auto is also a good spot for getting a deep socket for lug nuts - they're about $4-5 each, as opposed to $10 each at Cdn Tire.  A floor jack is also helpful, it's a lot faster than using the emergency spare tire jack.  I too should get Sir O to do my changeovers - I think about 40 minutes is my record!

[Gardiner Westbound]

My tire changing gear includes:

1. 2¾ ton Floor Jack, 5⅛" to 19¼" lift height: Princess Auto $100
2. Grip Floor Jack Adapter (Fits pinch weld jack points): Mr. Tool $22
3. ½" Dr Breaker Bar: Princess Auto $13
4. ½" Dr 7.5A Impact Wrench: Canadian Tire $45
5. ½" Dr, 80 ft-lb, Torque Limiting Extension Bar: Princess Auto $8
6. ½" Dr x 10" Extension Bar: Princess Auto $4
7. ½" Dr Metric Impact Socket Set: Princess Auto $9
8. ½" Dr Torque Wrench: Canadian Tire $60
9. ½" Dr x 19mm Deep Socket: Princess Auto $2
10. ½" Dr x 21mm Deep Socket: Princess Auto $2
11. 2-gallon Air Compressor: Canadian Tire $40
12. 2-Way Tire Gauge: Princess Auto $6
13. 3-Way Lug Wrench: Canadian Tire $8
14. Wheel Chocks: Princess Auto $4

Cost: $365 incl. taxes. All items purchased at sale prices.

I overpaid for the torque wrench. Princess Auto has a ½" Dr, 20 to 150 ft-lb, item that is frequently on sale at $25. It should be adequate for cars and many light trucks.

Don't omit Item 2. Improper jacking is unsafe and can result in costly car damage. Best price is from Mr. Tool out of DuBois PA. Look up the correct jack points for your car.

[rrocket]

I do most of my own work, and I'm more of a fan of "Rhino Ramps" than jack stands.  Though I do have a set of stands.  For most work you might do, the Rhino Ramps are far, far safer.  IMO.

As far as a floor jack, get an aluminum one.  I got tired of moving around my steel one and bought an aluminum one.  Worth every penny.

[ktm525]

I do most of my own work, and I'm more of a fan of "Rhino Ramps" than jack stands.  Though I do have a set of stands.  For most work you might do, the Rhino Ramps are far, far safer.  IMO.

As far as a floor jack, get an aluminum one.  I got tired of moving around my steel one and bought an aluminum one.  Worth every penny.

I agree a set of the heavy duty Rhino Ramps are great for oil changes etc. There will be a time where jack stands are required when the suspension needs to hang free unloaded. The big floor jack I use is a pig but I couldn't find an aluminum one that I could afford that could handle the LR3 (both weight and lift height).

[dr_spock]

Here is my kit:



I use the breaker bar to loosen my VW bolts.   The drill with the socket adapter to quickly remove the bolts. 

I put the bolts back on by hand and the palm socket.  I use the torque wrench to tighten to spec.

I have a cheapy Canadian Tire floor jack and jack stands from 15 years ago. 

[No H2O]

I’ve heard all about torque wrenches but I’ve never used one, and there are some really bad subjective reviews of some (based on Canadian Tire site reviews), and not much info on availability of matching sockets for the wheel nuts.

If I am going to tighten something to a specific value, I might as well trust the tool. I have three Snap-On torque wrenches that go from 2.5 lbf.ft. to 250 lbf.ft. 35 years later, the first one I bought is still in spec and it gets used. For less money, you can get one from Precision Instruments who makes the Snap-On units.

So, based on tools what options should I look at (and exclude) ?

b) Torque wrench ?
c) Impact wrench gun ?
d) Floor jack ?
e) Jack stands ?

b) poor people can't afford to buy junk and rich people don't. Get what you can afford.
c) can't understand why anyone would need one on lug nuts.
d) handy and much better and stable than the one that came with the car. I use a hockey puck between the jack pad and car.
e) get at least one. You can always slide a wheel under the car as well.

[ktm525]

I’ve heard all about torque wrenches but I’ve never used one, and there are some really bad subjective reviews of some (based on Canadian Tire site reviews), and not much info on availability of matching sockets for the wheel nuts.

If I am going to tighten something to a specific value, I might as well trust the tool. I have three Snap-On torque wrenches that go from 2.5 lbf.ft. to 250 lbf.ft. 35 years later, the first one I bought is still in spec and it gets used. For less money, you can get one from Precision Instruments who makes the Snap-On units.

So, based on tools what options should I look at (and exclude) ?

b) Torque wrench ?
c) Impact wrench gun ?
d) Floor jack ?
e) Jack stands ?

b) poor people can't afford to buy junk and rich people don't. Get what you can afford.
c) can't understand why anyone would need one on lug nuts.
d) handy and much better and stable than the one that came with the car. I use a hockey puck between the jack pad and car.
e) get at least one. You can always slide a wheel under the car as well.

c) cordless impact for zinging lugs off Nascar style.

[rrocket]

^^yup....I use mine for off.  Then set it on the lowest setting for when I put them on.  THEN I finish them off with the torque wrench.

[No H2O]

^^yup....I use mine for off.  Then set it on the lowest setting for when I put them on.  THEN I finish them off with the torque wrench.

What torque does it apply at the lowest setting?

For my 80 and 96 lbf.ft. lug nuts, I torque them in stages.

[ktm525]

^^yup....I use mine for off.  Then set it on the lowest setting for when I put them on.  THEN I finish them off with the torque wrench.

What torque does it apply at the lowest setting?

For my 80 and 96 lbf.ft. lug nuts, I torque them in stages.

For mine about 20 ft lbs. It's pretty weak so it's max torque is about 70 ft lbs. Close enough that a 1/4 turn of the lug brings the torque into spec using the torque wrench.


The cordless impact is most handy removing the 16 (!)  2 inch bolts on the skid plates which have to come off for oil changes.

[No H2O]

The cordless impact is most handy removing the 16 (!)  2 inch bolts on the skid plates which have to come off for oil changes.

I take it if they are that long, then that is one serious skid plate. Aluminium I hope, or you have arms like Arnold.

[rrocket]

^^yup....I use mine for off.  Then set it on the lowest setting for when I put them on.  THEN I finish them off with the torque wrench.

What torque does it apply at the lowest setting?

For my 80 and 96 lbf.ft. lug nuts, I torque them in stages.

I can set the air pressure so it wouldn't even spin a finger tight nut.  So that's what I do.  I put a nut on finger tight and back the air off until it just spins it.  Easy peasy.  I've done it so many times now, that I know exactly where to set it.