Topic: $1500 Rust Repair: Worth It?

[JimGoose]

Hi, I just read the Krown thread so I thought this might be a good place to get some advice. Note, I'm leaning towards "no its not worth $1500" but I'm open to arguments in favour of this costly fix, here's my situation:

I bought my first car off my brother last year, it's a 1995 Mercedes C280 for $3000 with 216,000 km.  I thought it was a great deal because we had just gone to Montreal on a single tank with it and still had gas to drive around and it seemed very solid for its age.  But knowing nothing about cars I didn't even give it a proper inspection... only a couple weeks later i noticed the small rust spots and bubbles developing around the wheel wells, fenders, and front rocker panels... cleaning the car revealed even more rust spots, this time on the trunk door lining, and trunk floor where the spare goes.  Even further inspection revealed that the front 2 drain holes were clogged with mud and rust, i got out as much as i could with my hands. One drain hole was just falling apart to the touch. 

Long story short I took the car to my inlaw's cousin's body shop and he said I had 2 options: one, I could spend $1,500 to fix all the rust by replacing the panels or two I could spend $400 and they could grind/sand down as much  rust and fill all the gaps with body filler.  He said if I wanted to sell the car, option two might not pass safety as its just a cover up fix.

The engine seems solid and it's always been fed synthetic oil and premium gasoline, it's fun to drive bu, is it worth a proper rust fix for $1500, or should I go with the Bondo method and see how that goes?

On a side note i've seen same model cars on autotraders for $4000 range and claiming mint body condition, some with even lower KMs O_O

sorry for the novel it's my first car and i really like it despite the rust, which isn't really noticeable until you get close

[rrocket]

Option two would pass a safety IIRC...you just can't have holes in the body (like holes your finger can go through).  Patched up holes are fine.  Someone correct me?

[ktm525]

Option two would pass a safety IIRC...you just can't have holes in the body (like holes your finger can go through).  Patched up holes are fine.  Someone correct me?

Duct tape over the holes ok?

[Zombie]

Option two would pass a safety IIRC...you just can't have holes in the body (like holes your finger can go through).  Patched up holes are fine.  Someone correct me?

Duct tape over the holes ok?

Is the duct tape paintable ?

[HeliDriver]

I wouldn't even spend the $400: a $3,000 car that's 15 years old is supposed to have rust on it.

Just drive it 'til the doors fall off. 

[safristi]

..POKE-A-FINGER thru it MAN....................rust never sleeps,but it craps allover yer Ch'ass'eh....

[kardood69]

Yeah, just get your money's worth and drive it.... if you're handy maybe and like doing stuff, play around with it amateur cosmetic body work yourself...

[johngenx]

Forget the body.  But, on that car you need to IMMEDIATELY check for rust on the front spring perches.  If the body is rusting, odds are the perches are as well.  This leads to the front suspension suffering catastrophic failure, and can happen while driving.  This is a serious safety issue.

Don't be fooled by my current vehicles.  I have close a million km's of Mercedes experience, including 10 years with a 1998 C230, the same W202 chassis as the car you own.

[articsteve]

I could spend $1,500 to fix all the rust by replacing the panels or two I could spend $400 and they could grind/sand down as much  rust and fill all the gaps with body filler.

$400. doesn't even cover the paint on all those places. 

Weld in new metal on all the wheel arches, rockers, trunk lid, then refinish, then paint, all for $1500 

If so then go for it.  Just better be standing there thru the whole process to verify.

[JimGoose]

Ok thanks.  I will get the spring perches inspected soon 

And arcticsteve, you're right, when the body was inspected he just looked at the front 2 rocker panels that are where the majority of the rust is (due to drain holes being plugged with mud and debris) and said that would be $1500

[johngenx]

If the spring perches are fine, or have already been done, then just keep adding mileage and save the dough for any other things that might come up. 

The M104 2.8L six in that car is bulletproof except for some tendencies to pop head gaskets.  Mercedes also installed the first of it's "green" wiring harnesses in those models, and the main engine wiring harness can break down, causing  high-rpm misfire and other symptoms.  This failure is more prevalent in hot climates, but still happens here.

The 722.4 four speed automatic seems old fashioned compared to the newest 6, 7 or whatever speeds, but if you change the fluid and filter every 50K, it will last nearly forever.  I had a 190E 2.6 with the same basic trans, and the engine and trans had never been apart at 509K, when I sold it.

The climate control system is pretty reliable, with the only real common weak spot being the interior temp sensor.  Easy to fix if it fails.  The evaporator can also leak, but luckily, the W202 chassis are pretty immune to that.  On other MB models, it's common, and can cost $4K or more to repair.

The worm/roller steering box is well made, deadly reliable, and lasts nearly forever.  The power steering pump is also strong, but you must change the power steering fluid every other year to keep it in top shape.

The radiator, like many new cars, is made of plastic, and the upper hose-neck connection will break if you let the coolant get dirty.  Chane the coolant every other year, and it will last a lot longer.  Also, only use MB coolant.  It's expensive, but worth it.

The W202 C-Class was made from 1993 to 2000 (1994 to 2000 in NA) and in Europe, those are workhorse cars, not garage queens like many here are.  Many of them around in Europe with staggering mileage.  They have proven to be one the most robust Mercedes chassis sold, and the Euro diesel versions are known for their fuel economy and incredible longevity.  However, the gas cars are also strong.  The M104 engine is the weakest of the line (the M111 four had all the benefits of the six, save for the power, but didn't eat head gaskets) but still a good engine.  The W202 is the last of the "simple, over-engineered like crazy" Mercedes products.

[articsteve]

Ok thanks.  I will get the spring perches inspected soon 

And arcticsteve, you're right, when the body was inspected he just looked at the front 2 rocker panels that's where the majority of the rust is (due to drain holes being plugged with mud and debris) and said that would be $1500

JIM; just let it go.  You don't have very much money in this car so don't fall into the black hole called rusting body repair.

It's probably got a good 2 years let in it.  At which time if you love that type of car so much, then travel to Florida et al and buy the exact model for peanuts and use your  Canadian rust bucket for a mechanical parts car.

[No H2O]

You just can't have holes in the body (like holes your finger can go through).

You can have holes in the body. They just can't be holes that lead into the passenger compartment, if I recall. It has to do with exhaust fumes.

[blur911]

Ok thanks.  I will get the spring perches inspected soon 

And arcticsteve, you're right, when the body was inspected he just looked at the front 2 rocker panels that's where the majority of the rust is (due to drain holes being plugged with mud and debris) and said that would be $1500

JIM; just let it go.  You don't have very much money in this car so don't fall into the black hole called rusting body repair.

It's probably got a good 2 years let in it.  At which time if you love that type of car so much, then travel to Florida et al and buy the exact model for peanuts and use your  Canadian rust bucket for a mechanical parts car.

Exactly, I'm presently still driving my last "parts car".  It was less rusty than my previous Audi, so that one is now the parts car.   Take Steve's advice.
Rust sucks, unless it's irreplaceable, don't bother.  The body will probably still last longer than the brake lines and fuel lines which might be getting pretty ripe.

[articsteve]

You just can't have holes in the body (like holes your finger can go through).

You can have holes in the body. They just can't be holes that lead into the passenger compartment, if I recall. It has to do with exhaust fumes.

You are correct, it's all about fumes.  The trunk cannot have holes either.

U foam it stuff will pass safety at certain places.

[No H2O]

As far as rust repairs go, it can be done. Its just a matter of finding someone who will do it right and that will cost.

That means removing whatever rust there is or the panels affected, using the proper metal joining process, cleaning the welded area properly and then treating the exposed metal (zinc). Sealing joints comes next and a good coat of paint after the area was prepped properly.

I walk away from cars that have structural corrosion...MacPherson strut towers, etc.

[safristi]

..tha  McPhersons I knew  couldna STRUT after   6 PINTS............wankers..............rusty  right arms are a bugger ta fix..........