Topic: Detailing Help? Come On In!

[safristi]

..should I krown OR flash wax my McDonalds fries if i want them interred with me.............Heaven knows wot the Food up there is like..............Manna...bleh...like grits....

[rrocket]

..should I krown OR flash wax my McDonalds fries if i want them interred with me.............Heaven knows wot the Food up there is like..............Manna...bleh...like grits....

Don't hate on manna.  Some scholars think manna were magic mushrooms!   

[life in the slow lane]

Hi CanuckG35

I will be replacing my van in the next while and I have a question about "paint protection". Of course the auto dealer is going to want to sell me a "paint protection" package Since the vehicle has a clearcoat finish I am assuming that the "paint protection" package is just a money maker for the dealer.

So here is my question(s).

What steps should I take to protect the paint as soon as possible?

As someone who is all thumbs when it comes to doing things, I don't want to end up wrecking the finish by doing something improper. So is detailing a vehicle that hard for someone that hasn't done that before?

How does one go about washing a vehicle and not get swirl marks? (other then taking it through a touchless car wassh)
Or is that just a hazard of washing a vehicle and that detailing is for to get rid of this type of annoyance?

This will be my first vehicle with a leather interior, whats steps should I take right away to protect the seats, so that they don't crack.

Thanks in advance

[CanuckG35]

Hi CanuckG35

I will be replacing my van in the next while and I have a question about "paint protection". Of course the auto dealer is going to want to sell me a "paint protection" package Since the vehicle has a clearcoat finish I am assuming that the "paint protection" package is just a money maker for the dealer.

So here is my question(s).

What steps should I take to protect the paint as soon as possible?

As someone who is all thumbs when it comes to doing things, I don't want to end up wrecking the finish by doing something improper. So is detailing a vehicle that hard for someone that hasn't done that before?

How does one go about washing a vehicle and not get swirl marks? (other then taking it through a touchless car wassh)
Or is that just a hazard of washing a vehicle and that detailing is for to get rid of this type of annoyance?

This will be my first vehicle with a leather interior, whats steps should I take right away to protect the seats, so that they don't crack.

Thanks in advance

Sure thing, I'd be happy to answer your questions.

To start off, definitely don't go with any dealership protection package.....for a couple of reasons.  1.  They claim that you'll never need to protect your paint again (or something similar), which is completely false.  They use a typical paint sealant, which is only provides durability for a few months.  2.  For what you are getting, it's drastically overpriced.  You can go buy a bottle of synthetic polymer sealant for less than $30 and it will last you a LONG time.

Your paint isn't protected from the factory so I would definitely recommend applying some protection as soon as possible.  For ease of use and it's durability, I would recommend a synthetic polymer sealant.  They are extremely easy to use and will provide you with paint protection for approximately 4-6 months.  There are lots of great sealants out there, Zaino Z2 & Z5, Menzerna Powerlock, Poorboys EX-P, and Chemical Guys Jet Seal just to name a few.  Application is simple.  Apply with a foam pad or microfiber towel in a straight line motion, let haze, and wipe off with a microfiber towel.

Improper washing and drying habits account for the vast majority of paint imperfections.  Some tips for proper washing and drying.

* Use the two bucket method along with a grit guard.  One bucket will have your soapy water and grit guard and the other bucket will have clean water. 

* Use a 100% sheepskin mitt for washing.  These types of mitts release the dirt really well.  So after you are done washing a small portion of a panel, rinse your sheepskin mitt in the clean water bucket to release the dirt.  You'll be amazed at the amount of dirt left behind in the clean water bucket at the end.  This dirt would of otherwise been rubbed on your paint causing scratches and swirl marks.

*  Dry your vehicle with a good quality microfiber waffle weave drying towel.  NEVER dry with a cotton towel.

There are lots of great leather conditioners on the market as well.  Some really good ones are Lexol, Zaino Z10, and Leatherique.  I typically apply leather conditioners once ever two months or so to keep the leather conditioned so it doesn't dry out and crack. 


I hope this helps, but let me know if you have any other questions. 

[life in the slow lane]

Hi CanuckG35

I will be replacing my van in the next while and I have a question about "paint protection". Of course the auto dealer is going to want to sell me a "paint protection" package Since the vehicle has a clearcoat finish I am assuming that the "paint protection" package is just a money maker for the dealer.

So here is my question(s).

What steps should I take to protect the paint as soon as possible?

As someone who is all thumbs when it comes to doing things, I don't want to end up wrecking the finish by doing something improper. So is detailing a vehicle that hard for someone that hasn't done that before?

How does one go about washing a vehicle and not get swirl marks? (other then taking it through a touchless car wassh)
Or is that just a hazard of washing a vehicle and that detailing is for to get rid of this type of annoyance?

This will be my first vehicle with a leather interior, whats steps should I take right away to protect the seats, so that they don't crack.

Thanks in advance

Sure thing, I'd be happy to answer your questions.

To start off, definitely don't go with any dealership protection package.....for a couple of reasons.  1.  They claim that you'll never need to protect your paint again (or something similar), which is completely false.  They use a typical paint sealant, which is only provides durability for a few months.  2.  For what you are getting, it's drastically overpriced.  You can go buy a bottle of synthetic polymer sealant for less than $30 and it will last you a LONG time.

Your paint isn't protected from the factory so I would definitely recommend applying some protection as soon as possible.  For ease of use and it's durability, I would recommend a synthetic polymer sealant.  They are extremely easy to use and will provide you with paint protection for approximately 4-6 months.  There are lots of great sealants out there, Zaino Z2 & Z5, Menzerna Powerlock, Poorboys EX-P, and Chemical Guys Jet Seal just to name a few.  Application is simple.  Apply with a foam pad or microfiber towel in a straight line motion, let haze, and wipe off with a microfiber towel.

Improper washing and drying habits account for the vast majority of paint imperfections.  Some tips for proper washing and drying.

* Use the two bucket method along with a grit guard.  One bucket will have your soapy water and grit guard and the other bucket will have clean water. 

* Use a 100% sheepskin mitt for washing.  These types of mitts release the dirt really well.  So after you are done washing a small portion of a panel, rinse your sheepskin mitt in the clean water bucket to release the dirt.  You'll be amazed at the amount of dirt left behind in the clean water bucket at the end.  This dirt would of otherwise been rubbed on your paint causing scratches and swirl marks.

*  Dry your vehicle with a good quality microfiber waffle weave drying towel.  NEVER dry with a cotton towel.

There are lots of great leather conditioners on the market as well.  Some really good ones are Lexol, Zaino Z10, and Leatherique.  I typically apply leather conditioners once ever two months or so to keep the leather conditioned so it doesn't dry out and crack. 


I hope this helps, but let me know if you have any other questions. 

Thanks CanuckG35

This gives me a start and it helps alot. To think I have been using the wrong type of product (over the counter Canada

Since I have factory ordered the vehicle it will be here sometime in either late March or early April, os that should give me some time to get the products ahead of time. Turned down the paint protection package.

Never thought of the two bucket system, makes sense.

I have gone on the internet and have bookmarked the various sites in regards to the polymer sealants. Now it its just a matter of doing some research as wether I have to order them via email or if there is a local supplier here in the Vancouver area. The Canada Carpolish.ca website is recommending a borderless blond towel, but I cannot tell if it is a micro fier cloth. Is this the type of cloth you are recommending? Since I am applying in a straight line motion .do I remove the same way? Also, do I apply to a samll area at a time?

Now, I have seen in the Show and Shine portion of this website, where one of the participants (can't remember who), brought his new vehicle home and proceeded to use a clay bar on it right away. Was he just being extra picky, as I notice that you did not mention that I would have to do that (thats a good thing at this point). Wiith using one of the sealants you suggest, I'm assuming this sealant takes the place of regular car waxes. Am I correct?

For the waffled micro fiber drying towel, I notice that eshine Canada has two sizes, a mini and I guess a regular size. Which would you recommend?

For the grit guard, I notice eshine Canada Carpolish.ca have grit guards. What size bucket would you recommend? as for car wash soaps, should I go with one from one of these two websites?  I'm a little confused about which bucket to put the grit guard in. I know you said put it in the wash bucket, I would have thought it should go in the rinse bucket as that is where the dirt is being relesed into. Therefore subsequent rinses without a grit guard would allow dirt back onto the mitt. or would I using a hose to rinse the mitt into the clean bucket?

Your information has been very helpful, and I am learning alot about vehicle care. Since I retired a couple of years ago, I cannot think of reason as to why I wouldn't have the time to look after my new vehicle.

[CanuckG35]

Hi CanuckG35

I will be replacing my van in the next while and I have a question about "paint protection". Of course the auto dealer is going to want to sell me a "paint protection" package Since the vehicle has a clearcoat finish I am assuming that the "paint protection" package is just a money maker for the dealer.

So here is my question(s).

What steps should I take to protect the paint as soon as possible?

As someone who is all thumbs when it comes to doing things, I don't want to end up wrecking the finish by doing something improper. So is detailing a vehicle that hard for someone that hasn't done that before?

How does one go about washing a vehicle and not get swirl marks? (other then taking it through a touchless car wassh)
Or is that just a hazard of washing a vehicle and that detailing is for to get rid of this type of annoyance?

This will be my first vehicle with a leather interior, whats steps should I take right away to protect the seats, so that they don't crack.

Thanks in advance

Sure thing, I'd be happy to answer your questions.

To start off, definitely don't go with any dealership protection package.....for a couple of reasons.  1.  They claim that you'll never need to protect your paint again (or something similar), which is completely false.  They use a typical paint sealant, which is only provides durability for a few months.  2.  For what you are getting, it's drastically overpriced.  You can go buy a bottle of synthetic polymer sealant for less than $30 and it will last you a LONG time.

Your paint isn't protected from the factory so I would definitely recommend applying some protection as soon as possible.  For ease of use and it's durability, I would recommend a synthetic polymer sealant.  They are extremely easy to use and will provide you with paint protection for approximately 4-6 months.  There are lots of great sealants out there, Zaino Z2 & Z5, Menzerna Powerlock, Poorboys EX-P, and Chemical Guys Jet Seal just to name a few.  Application is simple.  Apply with a foam pad or microfiber towel in a straight line motion, let haze, and wipe off with a microfiber towel.

Improper washing and drying habits account for the vast majority of paint imperfections.  Some tips for proper washing and drying.

* Use the two bucket method along with a grit guard.  One bucket will have your soapy water and grit guard and the other bucket will have clean water. 

* Use a 100% sheepskin mitt for washing.  These types of mitts release the dirt really well.  So after you are done washing a small portion of a panel, rinse your sheepskin mitt in the clean water bucket to release the dirt.  You'll be amazed at the amount of dirt left behind in the clean water bucket at the end.  This dirt would of otherwise been rubbed on your paint causing scratches and swirl marks.

*  Dry your vehicle with a good quality microfiber waffle weave drying towel.  NEVER dry with a cotton towel.

There are lots of great leather conditioners on the market as well.  Some really good ones are Lexol, Zaino Z10, and Leatherique.  I typically apply leather conditioners once ever two months or so to keep the leather conditioned so it doesn't dry out and crack. 


I hope this helps, but let me know if you have any other questions. 

Thanks CanuckG35

This gives me a start and it helps alot. To think I have been using the wrong type of product (over the counter Canada

Since I have factory ordered the vehicle it will be here sometime in either late March or early April, os that should give me some time to get the products ahead of time. Turned down the paint protection package.

Never thought of the two bucket system, makes sense.

I have gone on the internet and have bookmarked the various sites in regards to the polymer sealants. Now it its just a matter of doing some research as wether I have to order them via email or if there is a local supplier here in the Vancouver area. The Canada Carpolish.ca website is recommending a borderless blond towel, but I cannot tell if it is a micro fier cloth. Is this the type of cloth you are recommending? Since I am applying in a straight line motion .do I remove the same way? Also, do I apply to a samll area at a time?

Now, I have seen in the Show and Shine portion of this website, where one of the participants (can't remember who), brought his new vehicle home and proceeded to use a clay bar on it right away. Was he just being extra picky, as I notice that you did not mention that I would have to do that (thats a good thing at this point). Wiith using one of the sealants you suggest, I'm assuming this sealant takes the place of regular car waxes. Am I correct?

For the waffled micro fiber drying towel, I notice that eshine Canada has two sizes, a mini and I guess a regular size. Which would you recommend?

For the grit guard, I notice eshine Canada Carpolish.ca have grit guards. What size bucket would you recommend? as for car wash soaps, should I go with one from one of these two websites?  I'm a little confused about which bucket to put the grit guard in. I know you said put it in the wash bucket, I would have thought it should go in the rinse bucket as that is where the dirt is being relesed into. Therefore subsequent rinses without a grit guard would allow dirt back onto the mitt. or would I using a hose to rinse the mitt into the clean bucket?

Your information has been very helpful, and I am learning alot about vehicle care. Since I retired a couple of years ago, I cannot think of reason as to why I wouldn't have the time to look after my new vehicle.

Chances are, if you are looking for quality products you'll need to order from an online store.  It's possible that where you live there is a local detailing shop that carries some of the top brands, but I haven't experience any shops like that here locally.  Personally, I buy the vast majority of my business and personal supplies from eshine.ca.  Great service and quick shipping.

As far as a polymer sealant, I would highly recommend Menzerna Power lock.  Durability is great (about 5 months or so), really makes your paint really "pop" for a sealant, and is incredibly easy to apply/remove.  Removing this stuff is like buffing air, it's that easy.  Sealants can definitely take place of carnuba waxes.  Natural carnubas typically provide more depth and gloss to your paint over a sealant, but their durability is very short at 4-6 weeks max.  If you don't want to re-apply protection to your paint every month, a sealant is the way to go. 

For microfiber towels, I would recommend the following;

I like to use a foam applicator for applying sealants but this would work well also.
http://www.eshine.ca/the_el_cheapo_microfiber_buffing_towel-452.php

Pick up a few of these for removing sealant or apply quick detailers.  These MF towels are awesome.
http://www.eshine.ca/the_cookie_monster_buffing_towel_v20-453.php

I would pick up at least two of these to dry your vehicle. 
http://www.eshine.ca/the_dehydrator_drying_towel_20-458.php

When you apply and remove your sealant of choice, make sure you do it in a straight line as opposed to a circular pattern.

You mentioned clay bar on a brand new vehicle.  That's very common and is always part of a new car prep for a professional detailer like myself.  Even though the vehicle might be brand new, there are always bonded contaminants like rail dust and industrial fall out that will bond to paint during transportation to the dealership.  Claybarring is quite straight forward, and if you wish to know more about it just let me know. 

Regarding the grit guard, it can be placed in any size bucket that is 12" in diameter.  I use grit guards in both of my buckets, but if you only have one, place it in your rinse bucket.  I posted putting it in your wash bucket by mistake in my last post.  Again though, it's optimal to have one in each bucket. 

Any other questions, just let me know. 

[life in the slow lane]

Hi CanuckG35

I will be replacing my van in the next while and I have a question about "paint protection". Of course the auto dealer is going to want to sell me a "paint protection" package Since the vehicle has a clearcoat finish I am assuming that the "paint protection" package is just a money maker for the dealer.

So here is my question(s).

What steps should I take to protect the paint as soon as possible?

As someone who is all thumbs when it comes to doing things, I don't want to end up wrecking the finish by doing something improper. So is detailing a vehicle that hard for someone that hasn't done that before?

How does one go about washing a vehicle and not get swirl marks? (other then taking it through a touchless car wassh)
Or is that just a hazard of washing a vehicle and that detailing is for to get rid of this type of annoyance?

This will be my first vehicle with a leather interior, whats steps should I take right away to protect the seats, so that they don't crack.

Thanks in advance

Sure thing, I'd be happy to answer your questions.

To start off, definitely don't go with any dealership protection package.....for a couple of reasons.  1.  They claim that you'll never need to protect your paint again (or something similar), which is completely false.  They use a typical paint sealant, which is only provides durability for a few months.  2.  For what you are getting, it's drastically overpriced.  You can go buy a bottle of synthetic polymer sealant for less than $30 and it will last you a LONG time.

Your paint isn't protected from the factory so I would definitely recommend applying some protection as soon as possible.  For ease of use and it's durability, I would recommend a synthetic polymer sealant.  They are extremely easy to use and will provide you with paint protection for approximately 4-6 months.  There are lots of great sealants out there, Zaino Z2 & Z5, Menzerna Powerlock, Poorboys EX-P, and Chemical Guys Jet Seal just to name a few.  Application is simple.  Apply with a foam pad or microfiber towel in a straight line motion, let haze, and wipe off with a microfiber towel.

Improper washing and drying habits account for the vast majority of paint imperfections.  Some tips for proper washing and drying.

* Use the two bucket method along with a grit guard.  One bucket will have your soapy water and grit guard and the other bucket will have clean water. 

* Use a 100% sheepskin mitt for washing.  These types of mitts release the dirt really well.  So after you are done washing a small portion of a panel, rinse your sheepskin mitt in the clean water bucket to release the dirt.  You'll be amazed at the amount of dirt left behind in the clean water bucket at the end.  This dirt would of otherwise been rubbed on your paint causing scratches and swirl marks.

*  Dry your vehicle with a good quality microfiber waffle weave drying towel.  NEVER dry with a cotton towel.

There are lots of great leather conditioners on the market as well.  Some really good ones are Lexol, Zaino Z10, and Leatherique.  I typically apply leather conditioners once ever two months or so to keep the leather conditioned so it doesn't dry out and crack. 


I hope this helps, but let me know if you have any other questions. 

Thanks CanuckG35

This gives me a start and it helps alot. To think I have been using the wrong type of product (over the counter Canada

Since I have factory ordered the vehicle it will be here sometime in either late March or early April, os that should give me some time to get the products ahead of time. Turned down the paint protection package.

Never thought of the two bucket system, makes sense.

I have gone on the internet and have bookmarked the various sites in regards to the polymer sealants. Now it its just a matter of doing some research as wether I have to order them via email or if there is a local supplier here in the Vancouver area. The Canada Carpolish.ca website is recommending a borderless blond towel, but I cannot tell if it is a micro fier cloth. Is this the type of cloth you are recommending? Since I am applying in a straight line motion .do I remove the same way? Also, do I apply to a samll area at a time?

Now, I have seen in the Show and Shine portion of this website, where one of the participants (can't remember who), brought his new vehicle home and proceeded to use a clay bar on it right away. Was he just being extra picky, as I notice that you did not mention that I would have to do that (thats a good thing at this point). Wiith using one of the sealants you suggest, I'm assuming this sealant takes the place of regular car waxes. Am I correct?

For the waffled micro fiber drying towel, I notice that eshine Canada has two sizes, a mini and I guess a regular size. Which would you recommend?

For the grit guard, I notice eshine Canada Carpolish.ca have grit guards. What size bucket would you recommend? as for car wash soaps, should I go with one from one of these two websites?  I'm a little confused about which bucket to put the grit guard in. I know you said put it in the wash bucket, I would have thought it should go in the rinse bucket as that is where the dirt is being relesed into. Therefore subsequent rinses without a grit guard would allow dirt back onto the mitt. or would I using a hose to rinse the mitt into the clean bucket?

Your information has been very helpful, and I am learning alot about vehicle care. Since I retired a couple of years ago, I cannot think of reason as to why I wouldn't have the time to look after my new vehicle.

Chances are, if you are looking for quality products you'll need to order from an online store.  It's possible that where you live there is a local detailing shop that carries some of the top brands, but I haven't experience any shops like that here locally.  Personally, I buy the vast majority of my business and personal supplies from eshine.ca.  Great service and quick shipping.

As far as a polymer sealant, I would highly recommend Menzerna Power lock.  Durability is great (about 5 months or so), really makes your paint really "pop" for a sealant, and is incredibly easy to apply/remove.  Removing this stuff is like buffing air, it's that easy.  Sealants can definitely take place of carnuba waxes.  Natural carnubas typically provide more depth and gloss to your paint over a sealant, but their durability is very short at 4-6 weeks max.  If you don't want to re-apply protection to your paint every month, a sealant is the way to go. 

For microfiber towels, I would recommend the following;

I like to use a foam applicator for applying sealants but this would work well also.
http://www.eshine.ca/the_el_cheapo_microfiber_buffing_towel-452.php

Pick up a few of these for removing sealant or apply quick detailers.  These MF towels are awesome.
http://www.eshine.ca/the_cookie_monster_buffing_towel_v20-453.php

I would pick up at least two of these to dry your vehicle. 
http://www.eshine.ca/the_dehydrator_drying_towel_20-458.php

When you apply and remove your sealant of choice, make sure you do it in a straight line as opposed to a circular pattern.

You mentioned clay bar on a brand new vehicle.  That's very common and is always part of a new car prep for a professional detailer like myself.  Even though the vehicle might be brand new, there are always bonded contaminants like rail dust and industrial fall out that will bond to paint during transportation to the dealership.  Claybarring is quite straight forward, and if you wish to know more about it just let me know. 

Regarding the grit guard, it can be placed in any size bucket that is 12" in diameter.  I use grit guards in both of my buckets, but if you only have one, place it in your rinse bucket.  I posted putting it in your wash bucket by mistake in my last post.  Again though, it's optimal to have one in each bucket. 

Any other questions, just let me know. 

Thanks again for your reply and recommendations of which products to buy. As for the grit guard, I will be buying two, as it just makes more sense to do so.

As for the clay barring, I would be interested to know how to do this properly before applying the sealant. Do I need any special in terms of cleaning clothes or other equipment?

One of my bad habits when "waxing" a vehcile is that I apply alot of pressure. I am assuming that this is not doing the paint any good. So when applying the sealant and removing, just enought pressure to apply and remove sealant is the best method, would I be correct in that assumption?

I usually keep my vehicles for 10 or more years, so keeping the paint in good shape is important to me, so any further advice would be appreciated and if I think of any other questions I will certainly ask you. 

[rrocket]

As for the clay barring, I would be interested to know how to do this properly before applying the sealant. Do I need any special in terms of cleaning clothes or other equipment?

Just elbow grease!  Flatten your clay down into a little pancake.  Spray some quick detailer (or other lubricant) onto the area you're about to work.  Rub the clay bar back and forth.  It will feel sticky and hard to move at first...because it's "grabbing" the contaminants on the paint.  Once the paint is clean, the clay bar will slide easily and smoothly over the surface.

Here...read up!!  http://www.eshine.ca/DetailClay.htm

[CanuckG35]

Thanks again for your reply and recommendations of which products to buy. As for the grit guard, I will be buying two, as it just makes more sense to do so.

As for the clay barring, I would be interested to know how to do this properly before applying the sealant. Do I need any special in terms of cleaning clothes or other equipment?

One of my bad habits when "waxing" a vehcile is that I apply alot of pressure. I am assuming that this is not doing the paint any good. So when applying the sealant and removing, just enought pressure to apply and remove sealant is the best method, would I be correct in that assumption?

I usually keep my vehicles for 10 or more years, so keeping the paint in good shape is important to me, so any further advice would be appreciated and if I think of any other questions I will certainly ask you. 

Claying, while it can be time consuming and tedious, is very easy.  Like rrocket mentioned, you'll need a lubricant when using clay.  I personally use Poorboys Spray & Wipe.  It's a great waterless wash product that I am never without and it makes a great clay lubricant.  Spray a small piece of panel with your lubricant and then gently move your clay back and forth to remove the bonded contaminants.  Then simply wipe that portion of the panel down with a microfiber cloth.  If you ever drop a piece of clay on the ground throw it away and do not use it.

When you get your new vehicle, light move your finger tips across the paint surface.  If your finger tips catch on anything or the paint surface feels a little like sand paper, you'll know that it needs clayed.  I would recommend getting a mild aggressive clay bar so you won't cause any marring to your paint.  This one would be a good one to pick up.

http://www.eshine.ca/riccardo_clay_original_yellow_8oz-4001.php?cat=10

A roller seat comes in really handy as well when claying. 

[life in the slow lane]

Thanks again for your reply and recommendations of which products to buy. As for the grit guard, I will be buying two, as it just makes more sense to do so.

As for the clay barring, I would be interested to know how to do this properly before applying the sealant. Do I need any special in terms of cleaning clothes or other equipment?

One of my bad habits when "waxing" a vehcile is that I apply alot of pressure. I am assuming that this is not doing the paint any good. So when applying the sealant and removing, just enought pressure to apply and remove sealant is the best method, would I be correct in that assumption?

I usually keep my vehicles for 10 or more years, so keeping the paint in good shape is important to me, so any further advice would be appreciated and if I think of any other questions I will certainly ask you. 

Claying, while it can be time consuming and tedious, is very easy.  Like rrocket mentioned, you'll need a lubricant when using clay.  I personally use Poorboys Spray & Wipe.  It's a great waterless wash product that I am never without and it makes a great clay lubricant.  Spray a small piece of panel with your lubricant and then gently move your clay back and forth to remove the bonded contaminants.  Then simply wipe that portion of the panel down with a microfiber cloth.  If you ever drop a piece of clay on the ground throw it away and do not use it.

When you get your new vehicle, light move your finger tips across the paint surface.  If your finger tips catch on anything or the paint surface feels a little like sand paper, you'll know that it needs clayed.  I would recommend getting a mild aggressive clay bar so you won't cause any marring to your paint.  This one would be a good one to pick up.

http://www.eshine.ca/riccardo_clay_original_yellow_8oz-4001.php?cat=10

A roller seat comes in really handy as well when claying. 

Thanks RRocket and canuckG35, I think I have enough info to go on now. New vehicle is a few weeks away, so  ihave time to order the sugggested products. 

[CanuckG35]

You're welcome, glad I could help.  Btw, what did you get for a new vehicle?

[life in the slow lane]

You're welcome, glad I could help.  Btw, what did you get for a new vehicle?

I decided on a 2012 Dodge Journey R/T AWD. The Mrs was allowed to pick exterior(dark grey) and interior colour (black)I wanted Pealescent White exterior, and a tan leather interior.  Funny in previous threads I said I hated black interiors, but was willing to compremise on that but not on the R/T model. Vehicle has been factory ordered as most of the R/T AWD's that they had in stock had more options then I needed. I did an interent check and there was not a dealer in the lower mainland that had one equipped with as few options as I wanted. I also thought my factory ordering I could delay (6 to 10 week delivery time) the purchase of wheels and snow tires until October.

I really liked the Kia Sportage, as it was my alternate choice. The Mrs wanted a Highlander, and although its the most reliable of the three, the difference in price (close to $15,000) put it out of my comfort zone moneywise as we are paying cash for the vehicle, and the money comes out of one of our investment accounts.

But my final decision was for the following reasons: because my 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan is just short of 200,000 KM with no major work being done, my experience with the Car Dealership over the last 12 years(started going there with my other vehicle just before buying and 2001) and the review on Autos.ca. I also went with AWD as our Subaru is AWD, and just like it to be there when you need it.

The Journey is a little smaller then our van, but I like to have a vehicle with some kind of utility to it.

[CanuckG35]

I haven't been online the last couple weeks as I've been straight out with detailing.  One of my recent jobs, and it was a BIG one, was a lifted Ford Excursion.  Paint condition wasn't great whatsoever.  There was also a painted pinstripe on it that the owner wanted removed so it had to be wet sanded with 2000 grit to remove it.  Wetsanding removes all of the gloss so there was a long line down each side of the vehicle that needed to be brought back to a nice glossy finish.  What was a little difficult with this job was having to be on a ladder with my machine for a fair portion of it.  Very awkward indeed. 

Anyways, some before pics.




























A couple of 50/50 shots.








And completed after 21.5 hours.

[Weexy]

Wow -- I sure don't envy your task on that one!!  21.5 hours, eh??   

Spectacular job as always.

[5 Wheel Drive]

Wow...you are an artist!  BTW, the reflection of your S2000 looks great...   

[CanuckG35]

Wow -- I sure don't envy your task on that one!!  21.5 hours, eh??   

Spectacular job as always.

Yep, it was a long one.  My shoulders are still paying for it even a few days later.   

[Factger]

Wow That thing must have twice the surface area of a normal car.  I hope you did not have to detail the undercarage. (shocks axles )

Nice looking truck good job. How in the heck do you get in the thing without a running board or step?

[airbalancer]

 
Wish I could being the bummer to u

[mrthompson]

Wish I could being the bummer to u

Uhhh...



 

[CanuckG35]

Wow That thing must have twice the surface area of a normal car.  I hope you did not have to detail the undercarage. (shocks axles )

Nice looking truck good job. How in the heck do you get in the thing without a running board or step?

Yep, definitely lots of surface area to correct.  The owner has running boards and moldings but took them off to make it easier for me to detail it.  I could barely get in it without a step stool.