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Author Topic: cheap valves  (Read 1645 times)
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« on: November 06, 2009, 12:17:12 pm »

I have a theory perhaps someone in the know can confirm or disprove.  I have observed that if you buy a brand new vehicle and maintain the tire pressure on a regular basis then you could easily see 4 or 5 years of service if you so desire.  However I have noticed that when you replace the tires (all four) and the valves the new tires just do not hold pressure as well as the originals from the factory.  My old theory used to be the original tires were superior to the replacements but this does not hold water since pressure loss happens even if you replace with the same brand / model of tire.  My only conclusion is the replacement valves are inferior.  I noticed on some new cars the valves are made of a metal alloy and stiff not rubber and bendable.  I would be tempted to keep my original valves (probably not a good idea) and see what happens or ask for more expensive valves if there is such a beast.  I used to go to an aftermarket tire place to get new tires but now I am seriously considering going back to the dealer.  If there is such a thing as cheap valves then at least ask the customer what they would like instead of just putting the crappy valves on without question?  Thoughts anyone?
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« Reply #1 on: November 06, 2009, 12:39:00 pm »

I have a theory perhaps someone in the know can confirm or disprove.  I have observed that if you buy a brand new vehicle and maintain the tire pressure on a regular basis then you could easily see 4 or 5 years of service if you so desire.  However I have noticed that when you replace the tires (all four) and the valves the new tires just do not hold pressure as well as the originals from the factory.  My old theory used to be the original tires were superior to the replacements but this does not hold water since pressure loss happens even if you replace with the same brand / model of tire.  My only conclusion is the replacement valves are inferior.  I noticed on some new cars the valves are made of a metal alloy and stiff not rubber and bendable.  I would be tempted to keep my original valves (probably not a good idea) and see what happens or ask for more expensive valves if there is such a beast.  I used to go to an aftermarket tire place to get new tires but now I am seriously considering going back to the dealer.  If there is such a thing as cheap valves then at least ask the customer what they would like instead of just putting the crappy valves on without question?  Thoughts anyone?

Are you sure it is leaking from the valve? Could it not be leaking from the bead as it most likely is not as clean, maybe has some corrosion?
« Last Edit: November 06, 2009, 01:44:47 pm by Ryan@1010tires » Logged

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« Reply #2 on: November 06, 2009, 12:54:34 pm »

Ryan, good point.  This could also be an issue.  I think aluminum rims are even more prone.  Perhaps it's a combination?  If the bead - corrosion is the culprit then why are the rims not cleaned more thoroughly?  I guess you can only do so much?  A cleaned up rim will never be a brand new rim?  Good point. 
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« Reply #3 on: November 06, 2009, 01:13:41 pm »

There's also sealants shops can use for corroded aluminum rims. I had to do get that done on a streetbike.
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« Reply #4 on: November 06, 2009, 01:41:53 pm »

The presence or lack of TPMS will dictate the type of valves you have.
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« Reply #5 on: November 06, 2009, 02:00:09 pm »

I would have assumed the place selling the tires would know which sealant is optimal?  But I guess it's not in their best interest if the tires they just sold you last 5 years versus 3 years.  Ovr50 please advise what this TPMS is about?  On another note does anyone have any experience with these nitrogen filled tires?  Better, worse or the same?  If I had the equipment I would take the tires off the rims myself and clean them up.  Maybe what I need are two sets of rims.  Use one set then clean the other set and have them ready for next time? 
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« Reply #6 on: November 06, 2009, 02:06:38 pm »

Sorry a bit slow today.  TPMS - tire pressure monitoring system.  I have a truck without TPMS and the valves are (I think) aluminum - not flexible which I believe are superior to the rubber flexible ones I have on another car.  I wonder when I change tires on the truck if my valves will be replaced with an equivalent metal valve or the rubber flex ones?
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« Reply #7 on: November 06, 2009, 02:12:32 pm »

When Canadian Tire did the new snow tires on the van this year, one of their valve cores leaked.  They replaced it very easily.  It is usually the core itself that leaks, rather than the valve stem.  The core just screws in/out of the stem (rubber/metal part) without having to take the tire off.

And over the years, I have had very little issues with leaks from the valve area, OEM or tire shop ones.
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« Reply #8 on: November 06, 2009, 02:23:14 pm »

I guess I should just take it in and check for leaks.  I'm a glutton for punishment.  I just keep visiting the local air pump every two or three weeks.  It wasn't so bad in the good old days when all the air was free now it's hard to any free air. Thanks for all your help guys.
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« Reply #9 on: November 06, 2009, 02:26:29 pm »

I would have assumed the place selling the tires would know which sealant is optimal?  But I guess it's not in their best interest if the tires they just sold you last 5 years versus 3 years.  Ovr50 please advise what this TPMS is about?  On another note does anyone have any experience with these nitrogen filled tires?  Better, worse or the same?  If I had the equipment I would take the tires off the rims myself and clean them up.  Maybe what I need are two sets of rims.  Use one set then clean the other set and have them ready for next time? 

Here is what Consumr Reports had to say about Nitrogen for your tires:

One thing to avoid is anyone trying to sell you nitrogen for your tires. Nitrogen is used in race car tires because it has less thermal expansion than regular air. Air however, is already almost 80% nitrogen. Race cars are very precisely aligned, and suspension components are regularly replaced as they wear. Race engineers are constantly monitoring tire temperatures and pressures. Small changes in alignment and balance caused by expanding tires has a noticeable impact on high end race cars. On the road where cars goes tens of thousands of miles between suspension component changes, the difference attributable to filling tires with nitrogen are negligible. The gross changes caused by differences 10 psi or more. are measurable so save your money and the best advice is to just keep your tires at the recommended pressure.

Link: http://green.autoblog.com/2006/10/03/consumer-reports-on-undernourished-tires/
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« Reply #10 on: November 06, 2009, 04:32:23 pm »

There have been millions of garbage Chinese valve stems floating about for the last year or two.  There was a massive recall but they probably didn't get all of them.
http://www.leftlanenews.com/faulty-chinese-tire-valve-could-spark-recall-of-30-million-tires.html

I wouldn't trust much of anything coming out of China.
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« Reply #11 on: November 06, 2009, 04:47:44 pm »

You just never know these days.  Would not surprise me if I have some of those bad valves.  As far as nitrogen is concerned I guess there is nothing stopping us from just switching back to air only even if we buy a new car with nitrogen in the tires to begin with.  I wonder if dealers would offer people a choice if someone requested non nitrogen?
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« Reply #12 on: November 09, 2009, 03:54:06 pm »

Before working with 1010 I worked in our storefronts for about 4 years, I would say the amount of defective valve stems is easily less than 1%. It does happen, but generally it is the mechanic who forgot to tighten the core inside the stem, or because the wheel is aged and corroded.
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« Reply #13 on: November 09, 2009, 04:25:01 pm »

just hork a luggie on the stem.........any air escaping BUBBLES UP............Chinese luggies are the biggest......... Grin
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« Reply #14 on: November 19, 2009, 11:35:32 am »

Just a quick update.  While working on another project I came across a valve stem tool.  I checked how tight my stems / cores (not sure of the difference) were.  It's the little metal tube like thing with cutouts that fits over the needle that releases air.  Well the two tires / stems on the back of the car were nice and tight (also the ones that held the pressure the best) but the two fronts were not, again the amount of pressure loss was greatest on the tire that had the least tight core / stem.  So now they are all nice and tight.  Good call Nathan@1010tires.  Time will tell but I am confident that the one weak spot has been removed.  For anyone with similar issues buy a valve stem tool and check how tight your cores are.  Thank's Nathan and everyone else conributing, it appears my problem has been solved. 
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« Reply #15 on: November 19, 2009, 12:09:38 pm »

You've never done the spit test before (as Saffy already suggested)?  That's from Tire Repair 101.  ROFL
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« Reply #16 on: November 22, 2009, 08:21:37 am »

I shoulda listened to safristi and tested them out.  You learn something new every day.  Sometimes the easiest ideas are the best.
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