Topic: '06 Mitsu Outlander Brake Pad Change

[Turbo Bob]

Anyone have any tips on changing brake pads, I have never done it before but would like to do it myself, any special tools needed?

Also does anyone know of a guide for my car specifically, an '06 Mitsubishi Outlander?

thanks in advance.
 

[Railton]

If the Outlander is like any other car with disks it should be easy. The only special tool that might be required is if you have to turn/push in your caliper pistons to make room for the new thincker pads and shims. Get yourself some brake pad quiet as well at your local CT to apply to the pad/shim assembly before inserting.
Check the web for any Mitsu forum with a DIY section.
Railton

[PJungnitsch]

Agree that disc pad changes are usually pretty easy. On my Mazda there is (IIRC) one hex bolt to remove, then the pad holder pivots up and the pads pretty much fall out.

When pushing back the caliper piston to get clearance for new pads the screw type tool is handy, Lisle sells a cheap one. Watch the fluid level in the master cylinder, if you have been topping up as the pads went down, pushing back the fluid may cause the cyl to overflow. You can take out extra with a Turkey baster, I just use a rolled up bit of paper towel.

IIRC scurf on the piston should be removed before it is pushed back in.

It's a good time to check the caliper slides are free, maybe clean and lube them.

I've heard lately that scrubbing the disks down is a good idea, that many of the pulsing pedal type issues that people replace or skim disks for is actually due to brake pad buildup on the rotor which can be scrubbed away. Never tried this myself.

Not sure if ABS causes issues, ie turn the key on with the pads out might be bad if the system auto pressurizes. Prob a Hayes manual available.

[Squishy]

There was a poster here a few months ago, Firefly, that had a Lancer Ralliart where you had to remove the brake line to get at the top slide pin of his rear calipers.  If that is the case with yours, make sure the caliper slides freely first, then make note to lubricate your slide pins when you next bleed the brakes.  Otherwise, always clean and lube your slide pins at every pad change.

Do you have a single-piston caliper?  If so, a C-clamp is enough to push back the piston.  On some cars, I can even push it back by hand after cracking open the bleed screw (make sure the caliper is oriented as it would be when installed, to keep air from getting in.

Sometimes a set of pads will be a tight fit; don't be afraid to use a rubber mallet or lightish taps from a hammer to get the caliper back on.  Once you're done the mechanical part, don't forget to burnish or "break in" your pads.  The product box or manufacturer website should give specific directions, but it is usually something like ten firm stops from 50 km/h to 10 km/h, followed by a cool-down period of about 1 km of driving, followed by five firm stops from 80 km/h to 10 km/h.  Don't come to a complete stop, as that will create a hot-spot on the rotor.

[articsteve]

1.  Crack all wheel lugs first.  Enjoy.

2.  Lift both front wheels off the ground together that way when you are doing each rotor you can turn the wheel and point each wheel in such a way that suits your seating position.

3.  Try and avoid pushing the depleted brake fluid backwards into the system and thru the ABS pump.  That is for emergencies.  Crack open bleed screw, usually you can push back the pistons with your thumbs like SQUISHY mentioned, and then re tighten.  Then add fluid to the bake reservoir.

4.  Then proceed with a test drive, have brake failure, cause a catastrophe, get deported, all in the same day. 

[Turbo Bob]

 

Never really looked closely at calipers before so all of this info will probably become real once I get the wheels off (again).  Thanks all.  Quick question, if I open the bleed screw to let some fluid out, how much do you need to top it up by, can't be much can it?

[barrie1]

Bob don't touch the bleeder screw if you don't have to at all. Check to see if you have the correct sized allan key for the calipurs as well before you start. Don't forget to block the back wheels when you jack it up to do the work as well. 

[articsteve]

Might not need any.  Perhaps just an ounce.  You need DOT 4.  Regarding the bleed screw.  Best to spray with penetrant prior to cracking them.  Some are very small and you want to avoid snapping one off.  PB Blaster found at Crappy Tire is a good penetrant.

Crack screw, push caliper piston all the way in and then close bleeder.  Normally the brake fluid will just drip out slowly when opened.  However, when you push back the pistons it will flow quickly.  You can leave the old pads in and push on them instead of the actual piston.  Big channel lock pliers work well or whatever you got.

Normally, you can bleed brakes by just cracking one bleed screw at a time and letting it slow drip.  This is called a gravity bleed.  The only way you can get into trouble is if the brake pedal is messed with while a bleed screw is in the open position.  Bleed screw is a the top.

[Turbo Bob]

Thanks both, might get some racing pads for it! 

[dr_spock]

No need to open the bleeder screws unless you're planning to do a brake flush too.   If you worry that the brake fluid reservoir may overflow when you push the piston back in, you may use a turkey baster to remove some fluid from the reservoir before compressing your caliper pistons or have a helper keep an eye on the fluid level and remove as necessary.

Are you doing your front, back or both brakes?   I did my own brake job for the first time in my life last year and it wasn't too hard.  I would suggest reading up on as much as you can.   There are also videos on youtube.   It did take me longer than I planned. 

[articsteve]

For whatever reason, other than urgent situations, if ppl who want to change their pads are too apprehensive to crack the bleeders then they really should not be working on brakes.

THis is not to be confused with a brake flush.  It is simply discharging fluid that is water laden and totally unsuitable. 

The brake fluid that resides in the cavity of the caliper is subject to extreme heat day in and day out.  It degrades and becomes loaded with moisture.  That moisture leads to compression and spongy brake pressure.  Also this:

  water-laden brake fluid promotes corrosion and pitting in caliper pistons and bores, wheel cylinders, master cylinders, steel brake lines and ABS modulators.

[Squishy]

I'm with Steve.  Crack the bleeder screw when pushing back the pistons - you don't want that black fluid going back in the system.  You would need maybe the neck of a bottle of brake fluid to top it back up again.  Even doing a full bleed, I rarely use a full bottle.

Usually the bleeder screws are fine if the rubber boot has stayed on.  If that boot falls off, you could get some corrosion inside the bleeder which gets it stuck on there pretty well.  What I do is stick a box-end wrench on there, and lightly tap with a hammer until it moves.  And by lightly, I mean light enough that you are just past the point where it would hurt your thumb if you hit it with that strength.  In past experience, applying constantly increasing force to a corroded bleeder screw is almost certain to snap it off.

DOT4 fluid has a higher boiling point, but is more hygroscopic than DOT3 fluid.  DOT3 has a lower boiling point, but will last longer.  Most cars take both 3 and 4, and it's up to you to decide.  I use DOT4 and change more frequently, when it turns dark brown.