000, numbers in kilometers for Audi 5000
Description Interval in kilometers Source Comments
1 "Spare" Fuse (84-87) never so many times! This fuse, which is not labelled in the fuse box lid, is in the little holder down the side of the fuse box. It is the only position in that holder with contacts. It is the fuse for your CIS-E control unit. The car will run like crap without it. If your car suddenly runs poorly, check here first!
2 Windshield Wipers 10,000 I like to start the winter and the summer with new wiper blades. This also allows the option of installing "winter" (covered) blades in the autumn. I always save them, but I never reuse them...
3 Engine Oil 5,000 For conventional oil. Synthetics usually recommend and permit an extended interval, often up to 40,000 km, in which case the filter should still be changed regularly. Of course most of us who use syntheitc also change it with ridiculous frequency.
4 Engine Oil Filter 5,000
5 Spark Plugs 20,000 Experience For conventional plugs - cleaning and regapping will probably double this. I have had very good experience with Bosch single electrode platinum plugs, which seem to last up to 100,000 km, with luck.
6 Thermostat 20,000 I think it makes sense, especially in areas with seasons, to do this every spring.
7 Dist. Cap and Rotor 20,000 Experience Cheap, easy to replace, do often!
8 Gear Box Oil 20,000 best to change when warm with 80/90 oil
9 Accessory Belts 20,000-100,000 Wild guess The alternator belt takes a beating since it has to transfer a lot of power under harsh conditions. Check for glazing and cracking at least annually. Since the others are behind it and thus harder to replace, they might be done at the same time. At a minimum, they should be changed with the timing belt/water pump service, see below. See further below for tensioning issues.
10 Air Filter 20,000-35,000 memory Difficult job sometimes.
11 Brake Fluid 40,000 2 years Often neglected, brake fluid is hydroscopic, that is, it absorbs water. It also gets filthy. It only takes about a half liter to flush through most cars so it makes sense to do this whenever brake (or clutch) work requires bleeding one caliper or cylinder. Don't forget the clutch cylinders on hydraulic clutch cars either, as they are supplied by the (usually cleaner) fluid in the reservoir.
12 Engine Coolant 40,000 While there are coolant (antifreeze) products available that claim usable lifetimes of up to 100,000 km, you really don't want to leave your car's cooling system unflushed for that long. You can, of course, filter and reuse the coolant, but it is cheap.
13 Oxygen Sensor 50,000-100,000 Car's timer, Bosch Measuring output voltage with the car idling and warm it should fluctuate from about 300 to 800 mV every 1 second or 2. These can be tested annually without great difficulty.
14 Brake Pads & Shoes 50,000 While these wear items can last a lot longer if treated gently, they can become glazed and cracked with age and should probably be renewed at least this often
15 Ignition Wires 60,000-100,000 Experience Resistance should be measured annually, might as well buy new ones after five years though.
16 Timing Belt 80,000 Audi Always replace water pump, crank seal, accessory belts, and idler pulley at the same time.
17 Fuel Injector Seals (and Seats), Injector O-rings 100,000 My estimate These slowly harden, creating small air leaks and making fuel injector work a nightmare. Use new rubber called Viton for O-rings.
18 Hydraulic Lifters 140,000-180,000 do along with changing timing belt
19 Fuel Injectors 140,000-200,000 My estimate Injectors can be tested for flow rate and spray pattern, and kept if they are good. If reinstalled I would recommend repeating the test procedure annually thereafter.
20 Simple Vacuum Hoses 140,000-200,000 Experience Often overlooked, the tendency is to just swap ones that fall apart. I think they should all be done every 8-12 years or so.
21 Molded Rubber Hoses 140,000-200,000
22 Windsheild Washer Hoses 140,000-200,000 My estimate replace with new before the winter makes them crack at the worst time
23 Rubber Brake Lines 140,000-200,000 guesswork Many people report that their new teflon/stainless steel hoses improve their brake pedal response. It is more likely, that the required flushing of fluid is what did it, along with the past due replacement of their old rubber lines.
24 Fuel Filter 100,000
25 Power Steering Fluid 50,000 Pink Esso Univis J13 replaces the green Pentosin 7.1
26 Automatic Transmission Oil 80,000
27
28 Periodic lubrication and measurements
29 Description Procedure Specifications and Comments
30 Accessory Belts Adjust tension I like to adjust the alternator belt at least 2x / year, and I probably do the others 1x / year. At the same time they should be checked for condition, see above.
31 All Electrical Connections Clean Over the years the many plugs under the hood (and in the rest of the car) will slowly get dirty, oxidise, and affect the functioning of the machine. They should all be separated (one at a time), cleaned with contact cleaner, protected with silicon dielectric gel, and reassembled. This is a great way to start fixing intermittent, wet, or cold running problems.
32 NTC Sensor Measure resistance Located on lower side of top radiator hose flange. At approximately 20 degrees C it should measure about 2.5 K Ohm. Below 20 degrees C, higher resistance. Above 20 degrees C, lower resistance.
33 Radiator Fan Switch Test A good procedure to perform on an older car, especially as the weather gets warmer. It is at the bottom rear of the radiator, and should close (resistance=zero) as the coolant gauge passes the 5/8 mark or so. Shorting the 2 wires leading to it with the ignition switch "on" should make the radiator fan run.
34 Coolant Expansion Tank Examine for leakage These eventually start to crack - new ones are cheap and readily available. The caps also can go bad, either releasing pressure and fluid too early, or not releasing pressure at all. Symptoms will usually involve coolant and temperature problems
35 Clutch Cable Adjust Clutch pedal free play should be about 1 cm For non-hydraulic clutch systems
36 Hood (and Trunk) Release Cable Lubricate
37 Door, Hood, and Trunk Lubricate
38 Hinges and Latches Lubricate
39 Wiper Motor Linkage Lubricate
40 Lock Cylinders Lubricate Graphite powder is the best
41 Power Window Cables Lubricate These are a bear to get to, but any time you are inside the door you should try to clean the cables and their pulleys and tracks by wiping them and relube them with a good waterproof, sticky product
42 Idle Stabiliser Valve Clean Usually indicated if at idle, especially when cold, the car almost stalls and then revs up, or will not idle consistently (this can also indicate other items in need of attention). Remove it, and spray its insides clean with carb cleaner, while actuating it periodically with a 9 volt battery.
