Topic: A good car maintenance schedule

[jewels007]

Does anyone have or know of a good car maintenance schedule that they can share with me? I know all cars come with an owner's manual, but my VW's owner's manual doesn't mention 75% of the car maintenance stuff you're supposed to do, such as periodic coolant flushes. How is the average consumer supposed to know these things if your owner's manual doesn't tell you?

For long-term vehicle ownership, what's a good schedule to follow?

Thanks,
Jewels

[Squishy]

Here's the schedule for my Escape:

2003 Ford Escape (severe condition D):

10,000 km
-engine oil & filter (Petro Canada 0W-30)
-power steering fluid reservoir
-grease all joints
-weatherstrip lubrication
-lube parking brake cable
-tire rotation

25,000 km
-fuel filter
-air filter
-transmission fluid drain & fill (Dexron VI)
-lubricate locks, latches, hinges

50,000 km
-coolant

100,000 km
-spark plugs (ACDelco Rapidfire 8 )
-PCV valve

200,000 km
-accessory drive belt

======================================

I check the brake fluid every oil change and do a bleed when it looks dark.  Make sure you clean the cap before you open it (and don't top it off unless the fluid is below MIN).  There may be things specific to your VW that my Escape doesn't need maintenance on.

[vdk]

You have the 2.0 correct?

Here's a complete maintenance for a '99 - MK4 I guess - yours should be very similar.



http://www.vw.com/dealer/MaintenanceSchedulesQuery.do?year=1999&engineCode=2.0L&carModel=GOLF&TEMPLATENAME=maintenanceComplete&output=print

[jewels007]

Thanks Squishy.

[airbalancer]

Try looking here http://forums.vwvortex.com/zeromain

[jewels007]

vdk - the schedule you refer to is like many I've seen and seems incomplete. For instance, no where on the schedule does it say you should perform a coolant flush every now and then, or else your heater core might blow and that will cost you $800 to replace!

Do car makers not want people to know these things? It's a conspiracy, I tell you!

[barrie1]

Anti-freeze is something that should be done at least every 3-4 years in my mind and replacement of the Thermostat as well. The spring on them opens literally thousands of times in normal driving and gets weak after a while. The anti-freeze itself looses strength and can collect a sludge like formation in it  so I recommed distilled water which can be bought at almost any Drugstore for around $2.00 a gal jug.  This really helps with the sludge factor as it just dosen't form as bad as tap water will. Leaves the rad and heater core with less problems or deposits in them in time to come. I also recommend the anti-freeze called Low Tox made by Prestone and sold at Canadian Tire. If it leaks on the driveway it will not kill yours or anyone else's pets as well as staying cleaner longer as well. 

[Squishy]

Manufacturers seem to be pushing for less maintenance because the "general car-buying public" views it as an inconvenience.  That's what's behind these "lifetime" transmission fluids, which are really rated for 160,000 km or so.  I had no idea VW was pushing some sort of "lifetime" coolant.  I'm sorry if I implied that you were negligent in the other thread - this seems like it's VW's problem.

Our GM and Honda manuals seem pretty complete.  Our Ford manuals list adequate maintenance items, but fail to include the little details like lubricating locks, latches, and hinges.  The Honda manual even tells me when to adjust valve lash!  The way the V6 is mounted in the engine bay....no thanks.

[johngenx]

I have OCD when it comes to vehicle maintenance.  I hate those expensive "inspections" that are really nothing more than you paying a ton of money for nothing.  Here's what I do:

1. Oil and filter (Mobil 1 and OE filter) every 8000kms.
2. Brake fluid, power steering fluid, fuel filter, and coolant every other spring
3. Automatic trans fluid/filter every 50K
4. Transfer case and rear diff (on the Scoob) fluid every 50K
5. Spark plugs as per manufacturer spec, and ALWAYS use the spec plugs.  Do not "upgrade" the plugs.  Many engines run like crap on platinum plugs when not designed for them.
6. Engine air filter every spring.

This is essentially the service schedule that came with my first Mercedes years ago.  Using it, I have saved a ton of money (paying only for real service, no BS inspections) and kept my cars in great condition despite high mileage.  Fresh fluids and filter keep things from leaking.  Seals and gaskets get worn faster by the grit contained in dirty fluids.  Bearings wear faster with dirty fluids.  Changing fluids and filters regularly preserves both hard and soft parts in the entire driveline.

[rrocket]

Anti-freeze is something that should be done at least every 3-4 years in my mind and replacement of the Thermostat as well. The spring on them opens literally thousands of times in normal driving and gets weak after a while. The anti-freeze itself looses strength and can collect a sludge like formation in it  so I recommed distilled water which can be bought at almost any Drugstore for around $2.00 a gal jug.  This really helps with the sludge factor as it just dosen't form as bad as tap water will. Leaves the rad and heater core with less problems or deposits in them in time to come. I also recommend the anti-freeze called Low Tox made by Prestone and sold at Canadian Tire. If it leaks on the driveway it will not kill yours or anyone else's pets as well as staying cleaner longer as well. 

Our 2002 Alero is one of those dreadful GMs where they said and advertised heavily "No maintenance for 160,000kms".  It even says as much in the service schedule.  Although pretty much everything on the Alero was done well before that...either by me not trusting the 160,000 schedule or because it had to go in for warranty work at which point said fluids were drained or components replaced.....

[Squishy]

On the topic of plugs, make sure you get double or single platinum plugs where required.  If you have a waste-spark ignition system, you need double-platinum plugs (equivalent to ACDelco Professional series).  If you have one coil for every spark plug (or a distributor), copper or single platinum plugs are fine (equivalent to ACDelco RapidFire series).  The waste-spark system will fire the plugs backwards half the time, which requires both electrodes to be platinum to prevent premature gap erosion.

[rrocket]

On the topic of plugs, make sure you get double or single platinum plugs where required.  If you have a waste-spark ignition system, you need double-platinum plugs (equivalent to ACDelco Professional series).  If you have one coil for every spark plug (or a distributor), copper or single platinum plugs are fine (equivalent to ACDelco RapidFire series).  The waste-spark system will fire the plugs backwards half the time, which requires both electrodes to be platinum to prevent premature gap erosion.

Platimum plugs last long.  But copper (or silver) plugs offer a more potent spark.  The new Iridium plugs seem to last almost as long as Platimums yet provide the spark intensity of copper plugs.  They are my choice (and many OEMs now) for a plug.

With high boost in my Supra, I would go through a set of NGK 6097s to the tune of once a month or so.  I now run Denso Iridiums which easily last the season....

The new interesting plug on the market is the Pulstar.  It has a capacitor plus a very fine electrode to make a massive spark...like a car equipped with a big-time aftermarket ignition.  In virtually every dyno test I've seen thus far, from Corvette to EVO to 350Z this plus makes more power than any other plug.  On the Vette it made an astonishing 22 RWHP more.  The trade off is that the porcelain is REALLY thin (to accomodate the capacitor) and that it will not work on a car running heavy mods or more boost than stock.  In a modded car (especially one running boost) any large engine detonation will crack the plugs...

[Squishy]

True.  I like to stick with OEM though.  The Lancer came with copper, so I keep putting copper back in, even though it means I have to change them every 30,000 km.  For a modern car to come with copper, they either cheaped out or there's a reason behind it, and I don't want to take a chance at re-engineering the requirements.

[rrocket]

For a modern car to come with copper, they either cheaped out or there's a reason behind it

Like I said.  Simple physics.  Copper conducts better than platimum......(but yea, PITA to change out.  Though on my Supra a plug change take a mere 10 minutes.  YMMV though!)

[HeliDriver]

======================================

I check the brake fluid every oil change and do a bleed when it looks dark.  Make sure you clean the cap before you open it (and don't top it off unless the fluid is below MIN).  There may be things specific to your VW that my Escape doesn't need maintenance on.

Just a quibble, but I always understood that brake fluid was supposed to get low as the pads wear down. If you add fluid, then the reservoir will overflow when you replace the pads. If the fluid is truly too low, then there is a leak somewhere in the system that needs to be fixed, rather than masked with the addition of new fluid.

[tpl]

I have OCD when it comes to vehicle maintenance.  I hate those expensive "inspections" that are really nothing more than you paying a ton of money for nothing.  Here's what I do:

1. Oil and filter (Mobil 1 and OE filter) every 8000kms.
2. Brake fluid, power steering fluid, fuel filter, and coolant every other spring
3. Automatic trans fluid/filter every 50K
4. Transfer case and rear diff (on the Scoob) fluid every 50K
5. Spark plugs as per manufacturer spec, and ALWAYS use the spec plugs.  Do not "upgrade" the plugs.  Many engines run like crap on platinum plugs when not designed for them.
6. Engine air filter every spring.

This is essentially the service schedule that came with my first Mercedes years ago.  Using it, I have saved a ton of money (paying only for real service, no BS inspections) and kept my cars in great condition despite high mileage.  Fresh fluids and filter keep things from leaking.  Seals and gaskets get worn faster by the grit contained in dirty fluids.  Bearings wear faster with dirty fluids.  Changing fluids and filters regularly preserves both hard and soft parts in the entire driveline.

I agree with this with the possible exception of the fuel filter if it is one of those impossible to get at ones inside the tank or inside the fuel pump.

[barrie1]

From my personal experience the GM planum plugs do seem to run the hottest of any brand on the market to-day. They are a little pricey but you do get a much longer life out of them then the convential type. My truck is simple to change out as well with the exception of the back one on each side due to shape of the exhaust mainifold that I have to use. These are the Angle plug heads which are used in racing. All the cars are fairly simple relative to their designs.  

[rrocket]

From my personal experience the GM planum plugs do seem to run the hottest of any brand on the market to-day. They are a little pricey but you do get a much longer life out of them then the convential type. My truck is simple to change out as well with the exception of the back one on each side due to shape of the exhaust mainifold that I have to use. These are the Angle plug heads which are used in racing. All the cars are fairly simple relative to their designs.  

Well not all.  Many of the V6 cars with a longitude mounting set-up...the plugs at the back are a HUGE PITA.  I know..I did the one on the Alero.  Back cylinder head right up against the firewall.  Pain.  Huge.

On my Dodge Stealth, you actually had to undo the engine mount, tilt the engine to reach the plugs.  Bleh.  Terrible...

I also know on a Boxster they are a huge pain too!  I did one once.

So not all cars are easy to reach.

[dr_spock]

I follow what's in my VW owner's manual and cross referenced with the Bentley Service Manual for my particular VW model.   It seemed to have work well so far for my 1998 VW.   My Honda requires more frequent maintenance than my VW.  

[Squishy]

For a modern car to come with copper, they either cheaped out or there's a reason behind it

Like I said.  Simple physics.  Copper conducts better than platimum......(but yea, PITA to change out.  Though on my Supra a plug change take a mere 10 minutes.  YMMV though!)

I know that .  But I don't know if the engine actually requires that potent spark to run well, or they were just too cheap to OEM platinum plugs.

======================================

I check the brake fluid every oil change and do a bleed when it looks dark.  Make sure you clean the cap before you open it (and don't top it off unless the fluid is below MIN).  There may be things specific to your VW that my Escape doesn't need maintenance on.

Just a quibble, but I always understood that brake fluid was supposed to get low as the pads wear down. If you add fluid, then the reservoir will overflow when you replace the pads. If the fluid is truly too low, then there is a leak somewhere in the system that needs to be fixed, rather than masked with the addition of new fluid.

I said NOT to top up, for just that reason.