Topic: Lug Nut Torque Question

[Rupert]

Barrie, If they think that 100 LB is a unit of torque, as you seem to, then yes. Please make it LB.FT. if that is what you mean. If someone used 100 LB.INS would that not be wrong?

[mrthompson]

Then I guess you consider yourself more knowledgeble then all the SAE engineers combined.

When I try to repair my car and the $hit is so difficult to get at, then yes. 

[DRW]

I rotate my own wheels rather than have them (almost always) overtightened by the air wrench at the dealer/tire shop.  Overtightening, or uneven tightening, can warp a rotor. Undertightening has obvious other concerns.

A good torque wrench will last almost indefinetly. 

I read somewhere that graphite - found in "Lock-EZ" for example - applied to the studs will reduce the chance of the fastener seizing. 

[tpl]

I rotate my own wheels rather than have them (almost always) overtightened by the air wrench at the dealer/tire shop.  Overtightening, or uneven tightening, can warp a rotor. Undertightening has obvious other concerns.

A good torque wrench will last almost indefinetly. 

I read somewhere that graphite - found in "Lock-EZ" for example - applied to the studs will reduce the chance of the fastener seizing. 

It will indeed but maybe too much  Use proper anti-sieze compound* and the tiniest amount on each thread and if you are mounting allow wheels some say a tiny tiny smear on the hub mating surface as well is good.

* Cdn Tire sells it and a can will last for several years.

[No H2O]

I weigh 180lbs and I need to jump up and down on a 10" lug wrench to get them to budge.

If they are removed one a year, there should be no need for that.

I've used the OEM lug wrench and can easily loosen them by hand after they have been torqued to specification.

Were your wheel studs/nuts rusted? Did they squeak loudly while removing them?