Is this oil okay or a concern for my car?

[SkiBunny]

It just stated that 5W20 was an acceptable replacement for 5W30. 

That'd convince me it was okay.   

Thing is tho, this is a ten-yr-old ford 4-banger.  Not state of the art, haha.  Possibly the same old engine they had in those old Ford Pintos, hehe

I dont know if 5w20 even existed when my engine was designed/built. 

[rrocket]

^^^^Did you see the TSB from Ford I posted?  5W20 is recommended by Ford now.

[SkiBunny]

Found the TSB.  The garage is correct.  Ford now recommend 5W20 for her car.

ok... now i feel like the moron i am for protesting the oil they used at the shop.

auto mechanics should be left to the mechanics and not to the ski bunnies  

[SkiBunny]

^^^^Did you see the TSB from Ford I posted?  5W20 is recommended by Ford now.

yes thanks a heap 

[rrocket]

Never worry about asking a question.  It resulted in some good banter between myself and DanY.  You may have learned a thing or two in the process about oil too!!!  No worries!!  Some of us really enjoy debating stuff like this!!  

Link to copied PDF of TSB:  http://www.ints.com/support/documents/Ford5W-20motoroil.pdf

[EV Dan]

Never worry about asking a question.  It resulted in some good banter between myself and DanY.  You may have learned a thing or two in the process about oil too!!!  No worries!!  Some of us really enjoy debating stuff like this!! 

Link to copied PDF of TSB:  http://www.ints.com/support/documents/Ford5W-20motoroil.pdf

Thanks RR     

[Squishy]

5W-30 and 5W-20 are interchangeable for most applications.  5W-30 will shear down into almost a 5W-20 anyways.  5W-20 oils, on the other hand, are generally more shear stable and "stay" 5W-20 for much longer.  Using oil additives in a normal passenger car is just throwing money away.

[articsteve]

Squishy, thought you were a gonner.    How's Orillia.  Got yourself a sled yet? 

I see that you are working on a 1997 STS.  What a can of worms those things are.  Changing the starter out are ya? 

[Squishy]

Can't get rid of me that easily.

Doesn't the intake manifold have to come out for that starter?  Or was it one of the valve covers?  Something ridiculous like that.  I'm not touching the starter yet.  There's a vacuum leak somewhere, which I may have pinpointed as the PCV elbow (small crack there).  The transmission is also likely shot - 250,000 km on what I can only assume to be the original fluid.  It slips in 1st and 3rd, and the fluid becomes unbelievably foamy once warmed up.  I'm planning a complete fluid exchange as a last ditch effort before it gets a rebuilt transmission.  The engine was probably "babied" in the past as well; the throttle body took four hours to clean.

[articsteve]

The engine was probably "babied" in the past as well; the throttle body took four hours to clean.

That was the problem with those cars.  Super high performance engine dropped into a non high performance car.  My sister has a 2002 and I don't think it has been floored even once.  By about her model year they made changes to the motor to more reflect the users.  2002 and up much more reliable all around.

BTW, I used your small torque wrench for the first time last week,  Usually don't bother with measuring torque on small bolts, but I was replacing cam chain sprockets on a 318 and I was glad I had it. One screw up on those and the car is essentially a boat anchor. 

[Squishy]

The 2000+ Northstars also got roller cams - the 1997 is getting PC Duron HDEO until this ZDDP debate is sorted out.  The suspension is really something on that STS though.  It has the boaty "Cadillac" feel when driving in a straight line, but the active suspension really firms up when you take a turn.

I missed that little torque wrench two weeks ago when I did the spark plugs on the Escape.  You are supposed to remove the intake manifold to access the rear bank, but I refuse to be a victim to bad engineering.  I got everything done without touching the manifold, but I could not get my smallest torque wrench in there.  Luckily it called for 10 ft-lbs, which is the same as all the snowblowers I work on, so I "cheated" and tightened by feel.

[barrie1]

Its hard to say if the tranny is shot or not as possibly a Band adjustment with the flush may help considerably. Thats something I do about every 65,000 miles or so which does help. The E80 series automatic trannys are actually quite well built and can take a lot of abuse but dirt will hurt any of them of course. Steve must be dreaming about his Lincoln regarding the bad starter as I have a 2001 STS and its running just fine like all my Caddies are. Even my 84 Seville Elegante 4.1 has never had a tranny problem as well and its  got well over 300,000 klms on it now. Same goes for my 1991 Fleetwood which has around 180,000 Miles on it with the 4.5 engine. They all give me over 30 miles per gal on the hyw with ease and lots of comfort as well. The only major part I have ever replaced has been the alt twice on the 84 and I just rebuild them when needed. 

[articsteve]

It's the location of the starter being that it's in a hilarious spot, unless your paying. 

[barrie1]

I don't have to pay for repairs Steve as I drive a dependable car as well as do my own repairs as well the same as build my own engines also. I do have a very well equipped shop at home with gas furnace even. TV Cable, Stereo and a new Beer Fridge full of Pop. A Fukk Mac Rollaround Double Box completely full of tools. I fix and design my own driving and build it as well when I want to. Do you work on vehicles at all or just sell High Milage used junk for a high price on your lots? 

[articsteve]

 

[barrie1]

Here's another one Steve, The new 2009 Consumer Guide Book has the car and truck ratings in it and has the P/U's listed as being GM 1st and Ford and Dodge closely behind for suggested purchase. The Tundra 5.7 unfortunately has nothing but the Worst ratings on it and is not recommended at all the same as the Nissan 5.6. Page 137 of the new pocket Novel sized Book from Consumers. Over 20,000 folks wrote in and gave their views. Probably Real ownership experiences that came back to haunt them. Sounds like the public has spoken. 

[rrocket]

Sounds like the public has spoken. 

Which is why GM is bankrupt and Toyota is profitable??   

[UmroAyyar]

I am going to hijack this thread for a useful purpose now. My turn.

I drive a 2007 Toyota Camry with a 4 cylinder engine and auto transmission. 69,000km

Most of my driving is within and around Toronto, driving distance to work is 7km and quite a few short trips. The car has been going to the dealership for routine maintenance and follows the schedule, uses 5w20 dino(is that a term? ) oil.

I've decided to keep this car for quite some time, what do the techie gents recommend?
Keep it running with dino oil or switch to the so called synthetic oil (I've read the good discussions/descriptions in other threads).

Comments/suggestions appreciated.

[Squishy]

Short trips would benefit from a synthetic oil; I would even suggest a 0W- oil both because the oil does not warm up very well within 7 km, and just in case Toronto ever sees lower than -40'C.  You might have a hard time finding a 0W-20 oil, but 0W-30 can be found and can be substituted until 0W-20 becomes less exotic.  I use 0W-30 in all our cars, and the basic Petro Canada synthetic costs $5.50/L from a distributor (cases of 4x4 L).  I don't see a need for you to run the more expensive HDEO synthetic, unless you're going for extended drain intervals, which would have questionable results because of your short trips.

[safristi]

..Just don't use SQUISHY OIL.....ya not the 99cent  Crapolla fer Corollas (They RUN FOREVER on DUST!!!! ).......Umro...put in some decent SYNTH...(often available on SPECIAL!!!) fer low $20 a JUG....................you will ENJOY the easier starts now that Wintaaah is here...and the knowledge that all yer fiddly bits are well lubed...at  - whateeffer Celcius........