Topic: Steering wheel vibration while braking UPDATED

[Wetson]

I'm taking my car in for service next Tuesday but need to know in advance what to ask.  I am noticing that when driving on the highway at speeds of 100KM/H or more, when I brake I get tremendous vibration in the steering wheel.  It's almost like it's shaking back and forth.  The faster the vehicle is travelling, the more severe the vibration is.  I suspect it's something with the brakes. 

What should I ask the technician at Honda to inspect when I take it in for it's service?

Thanks in advance.  If you need more information just ask and I'll do my best to provide it.

[AVToller]

The most obvious thought is warped rotors. 

[Squishy]

Most likely warped rotors.  Have the technician properly torque down all the wheels - I've seen some pretty resilient rotors that were warped from overtorqued wheels fix themselves.

[Wetson]

Okay.  This sounds like it could be expensive.  I wonder if warranty will cover them.  It's my 05 and only has
34 000 KM's on it.  I'll be crossing my fingers.  Where's HSG when you need him! ]

[AVToller]

Not VERY expensive at all, and extremely unlikely to be warranty - it is considered a normal wear issue as driving style can easily cause rotor warping. On my Golf, I never had warping, but pads and rotors had to be replaced every 40k.

[mmret]

How is driving style going to affect warping?

Its not like I jam the brakes at the exact same rotation point on the rotor every time and then release.

[AVToller]

How is driving style going to affect warping?

Its not like I jam the brakes at the exact same rotation point on the rotor every time and then release.

If you come to a "hot stop" and keep the calipers clamped in one spot, the heat will not dissipate evenly, thus increasing the chances of heat distortion. Best behaviour involves allowing the wheel to turn slightly, a couple of times, shortly after completing the braking.

[mmret]

Okay, I'll start rolling my stops.

Still, since the stopping position of the rotor relative to the pad is basically random, and uniform, shouldn't it just get screwed up at a more or less even rate all across the rotor?

[safristi]

..S...P..O...T.... in tha name of LURVE..............the great WINDSOR SOUND....hey the wind was NNE....

[AVToller]

Okay, I'll start rolling my stops.

Still, since the stopping position of the rotor relative to the pad is basically random, and uniform, shouldn't it just get screwed up at a more or less even rate all across the rotor?

No. If the pads are clamped to one spot, the rest of the rotor cools while that one area remains hotter, thus allowing twisting/warping. With a thinning rotor, ONE extreme stop (and "clamp") could be enough to warp the rotor.

[safristi]

..why ..thank yer Uncle Jed......how's things in P.A???..Lurve tha Clammperts....

[mmret]

Okay, I'll start rolling my stops.

Still, since the stopping position of the rotor relative to the pad is basically random, and uniform, shouldn't it just get screwed up at a more or less even rate all across the rotor?

No. If the pads are clamped to one spot, the rest of the rotor cools while that one area remains hotter, thus allowing twisting/warping. With a thinning rotor, ONE extreme stop (and "clamp") could be enough to warp the rotor.

Yes, but what I'm saying is that at the next light, it would be in a totally different angular position, thus heating a new random area and allowing the rest of it to cool.

I see what you are saying about the extreme stop thing, one panic situation and you could get it funny-spotted forever.

[safristi]

..who ya calling Funny Spotted...!!!???

[Squishy]

It's not random enough to completely cancel everything out.  You'll have several "high spots" on the rotor, which will affect the degree of vibration you feel.  For instance, one high spot will appear as a single vibration per revolution of the wheel, while ten high spots will feel like your wheel is falling off.  Since you only feel it at high-speed stops, I wouldn't worry about it as long as the rotor has adequate thickness.  Make sure it isn't some other cause such as a loose caliper, and wait until the rotor is used up or you start to feel vibrations during normal braking to replace it.  You should replace your pads along with the rotor, as the old rotor will have grooves and you don't want the old pads wearing those same grooves into a brand new rotor.  Replace pads and rotors in axle pairs as well, to keep the car from pulling to one side during braking.

[barrie1]

I agree unless the rotors can be turned to take the spots out of them. You can also get a glaze spot as well from the pad material which will give you similar symptoms as well. When stopping I hit and release my brakes 2-3 times for cooling until I am stopped which helps the rotors last longer as well as the pads. Proper torque on the rotors is very important also as they can warp a over tightened rotor very quickly. Too many garages just pound the wheels on with a airgun and thats just causing problems doing that. Its actually worth owning the correct sockets for your wheels and a good torque wrench as well as it can pay you back just in brake savings.   

[Squishy]

On the subject of overtorquing causing problems - it's not just brakes.  Just an hour ago I had a wheel stud snap on me because someone tightened the nut so much that the mating surface on the nut was peeled back by the steel wheel, and I had to stand on about 24" of pipe + breaker bar to get the nuts off.  Now I'll have to go buy some wheel studs tomorrow. 

[Wetson]

GRRRRRR.  Just got a call from Honda.  Brake rotors warped and fluid should be changed.  They've told me that the rotors can be machined but the brake fluid is discoloured and there's some condensation in it so it should be changed.  It's going to cost over $200 for this alone.  I'm NOT amused.  The pads are around 50%.  3 years, 35000 KM and 50% pads. Is this good?  They insinuated that I've been too hard on the brakes.  Logic is telling me that this can't be true since the pads don't need replacing.  Wouldn't I need to replace the pads if I've been too hard on the brakes?  GRRRRRR.

[Allen]

You can have warped rotors without the pads being shot.. I had warped rotors on the wifes xtrail at 20K and they had to be machined, but the pads were fine...  gee I wonder if it has anything to do with my the way my 19 year old son drives it

[AVToller]

GRRRRRR.  Just got a call from Honda.  Brake rotors warped and fluid should be changed.  They've told me that the rotors can be machined but the brake fluid is discoloured and there's some condensation in it so it should be changed.  It's going to cost over $200 for this alone.  I'm NOT amused.  The pads are around 50%.  3 years, 35000 KM and 50% pads. Is this good?  They insinuated that I've been too hard on the brakes.  Logic is telling me that this can't be true since the pads don't need replacing. Wouldn't I need to replace the pads if I've been too hard on the brakes?  GRRRRRR.

See my previous posts. $200 seems high for a fluid replacement. 

[Wetson]

Over 200 for re facing the rotors and fluid replacement.  GRRRR.