Topic: Help! I think my clutch is toast...Acura 2.2 CL

[Julie]

Years ago I read an article that pushed replacing vehicle parts before they broke, if possible, on the principle that:

a) all parts have a certain lifespan, either in miles, time, or a combination of both.

b) it can save a lot of money and trouble to change them out before they fail, and to change out stuff in groups.  Ie if the rear brake pads are worn, not a bad idea to change out the wheel cylinders. If changing the timing belt, look at doing the idler pulleys/guides/water pump.

I've followed that concept, and have gotten some very cheap and trouble free motoring over the years despite running old and inexpensive vehicles. I think this is what Artic is getting at.

Especially important with 'vehicle killers' ie water pumps in overhead cam vehicles, radiator hoses and so on, as well as 'immobilizers' like starters, brake cylinders, etc.

Parts just have a lifespan, and every year I'll put some money into my machines whether stuff is broke or not, and treat it as an investment into vehicles that are much less likely to let me down.

I grew up on a farm with lots of old stuff repaired on a 'fix it when it breaks' basis, and I've got plenty of first hand knowledge on the hassle and expense that causes.

That "preventive" theory sounds like a good idea.

[barrie1]

Its taking the time to learn the vehicle you are driving and knowing its needs when required. If you look after it it should pay you back and not leave you sitting on the side of the road. Good Preventive Maintenance pays for itself in advance if you do it right. 

[acuragirl]

Well he told me the water pump was done recently or 'looked newer' ..like the PO had told me.  He checked it, said somthing about bearings..and said it didn't need to be done.  There was two timing belts, a big one and a small one....I asked him to give me the old belts...and they don't look worn at all, certainly not near the point that they would be a danger.  I mean I believe in preventative maintenance as well...and better to get this done and out of the way. 

He also checked the antifreeze and said it was only slightly acidic...he flushed it and put new antifreeze in.  Hoses were good.  I mean I gave this guy license to change and fix lots of things.  Whether or not he did too little remains to be seen.  He came highly recommended, it's obvious he takes great pride in his work and his business.

I am happy and satisfied that the final bill was only $521 with tax included.  He also replaced a leaking oil pressure switch.  Here's how the bill read:

goodyear camshaft drive, timing belt  $78.90
goodyear balance shaft drive, timing belt $34.35
Oil pressure switch $19.25
5W30 Full synthetic engine oil. 0.5L   $4.23
Engine antifreeze-aluminum compatible 5 litres  $18.75
Shop supplies  $5.00
   
Labor:
Remove and install timing belt covers to replace both timing belts, check cam timing, adjust belt to proper tension, check for oil leaks.  Chack accessory drive belts, computer scan.  3.8 hours @ $65.   $247.00

Locate engine oil leak, replace leaking oil pressure switch, top up engine oil.  ( I asked him to top up the oil...the tow truck driver told me it was low...)
0.5 hours $32.50

Drain, flush and refill cooling system with new coolant, check hoses (good)  0.8 hours$52.00

Water pump in good condition, not replaced.

195,769 Kms on OD.

So that is it folks...hopefully I'll have many more months of worry free enjoyable driving in my sexy baby...lol.  Now for that rust spot on the door...damn there's always something else.

[AVToller]

Seems like you've done a good job of it. Now go out there and enjoy it for a long time. 

[PJungnitsch]

If you have a good mechanic you can trust that takes a lot of the worry out of running an older vehicle. So as AV says, enjoy your driving!

[articsteve]

Well he told me the water pump was done recently or 'looked newer' ..like the PO had told me.  He checked it, said somthing about bearings..and said it didn't need to be done.  There was two timing belts, a big one and a small one....I asked him to give me the old belts...and they don't look worn at all, certainly not near the point that they would be a danger.  I mean I believe in preventative maintenance as well...and better to get this done and out of the way. 

He also checked the antifreeze and said it was only slightly acidic...he flushed it and put new antifreeze in.  Hoses were good.  I mean I gave this guy license to change and fix lots of things.  Whether or not he did too little remains to be seen.  He came highly recommended, it's obvious he takes great pride in his work and his business.

I am happy and satisfied that the final bill was only $521 with tax included.  He also replaced a leaking oil pressure switch.  Here's how the bill read:

goodyear camshaft drive, timing belt  $78.90
goodyear balance shaft drive, timing belt $34.35
Oil pressure switch $19.25
5W30 Full synthetic engine oil. 0.5L   $4.23
Engine antifreeze-aluminum compatible 5 litres  $18.75
Shop supplies  $5.00
   
Labor:
Remove and install timing belt covers to replace both timing belts, check cam timing, adjust belt to proper tension, check for oil leaks.  Chack accessory drive belts, computer scan.  3.8 hours @ $65.   $247.00

Locate engine oil leak, replace leaking oil pressure switch, top up engine oil.  ( I asked him to top up the oil...the tow truck driver told me it was low...)
0.5 hours $32.50

Drain, flush and refill cooling system with new coolant, check hoses (good)  0.8 hours$52.00

Water pump in good condition, not replaced.

195,769 Kms on OD.

So that is it folks...hopefully I'll have many more months of worry free enjoyable driving in my sexy baby...lol.  Now for that rust spot on the door...damn there's always something else.

He came highly recommended, it's obvious he takes great pride in his work and his business.

I think this guy majorly sucks.       At this mileage and without any records the "timing belt job" is always done via a "timing belt kit"  They sell them in a KIT for a REASON. 

The kit includes both belts, but the ever so critical tensioner and main roller.  See pic and link for details.  Ask MDX about his feelings on worn tensioners. 

http://parts.autopartsonlinecanada.com/parts/apocanada/wizard.jsp?year=1998&make=AC&model=CL--002&category=A&part=Timing+Belt+Kit

For those of you that don't known, on average the tensioner usually fails before a belt actually snaps.  Then the roller.  You can't test them.  HENCE, they are ALWAYS changed with the belts.  HENCE the "KITS".

So that is it folks...hopefully I'll have many more months of worry free enjoyable driving

Profound statement as that may be all the time left until the tensioner or roller fails. 

This car has a repair curse on it. 

[mdxtasy]

Ask me about the tensioners....they failed on my BMW.  $3000 later, I had the top half of the engine rebuilt. 

[barrie1]

Don't you just love the interference engine designs. Give me a timing chain anyday. 

[articsteve]

You really mean give me a push rod.  I agree overhead cam, belt driven interference motors are one PIA.

Now (2007) they are almost all chain driven, but still overhead cam interference motors whose chain tensioners still can fail and or the chain can stretch.  Although they are oil lubricated and should last much longer which is another reason to use a Group 4 oil and keep it clean.

[mdxtasy]

Don't you just love the interference engine designs. Give me a timing chain anyday. 

My BMW did run a chain.

[dr_spock]

I'll take a non-interfence engine instead. 

[acuragirl]

What is PIA, and what is group 4 oil?  I am going back to the mechanic for some electrical work on Wed.  I will show him the email about the timing belt kit, and ask him about the tensioner and the roller...Thanks again!

[tortoise]

Pain In the A$$

[barrie1]

Group 4 oil is one of the newest grades of oil and recommended for many of the newer engines such as yours. 

[articsteve]

What is PIA, and what is group 4 oil?  I am going back to the mechanic for some electrical work on Wed.  I will show him the email about the timing belt kit, and ask him about the tensioner and the roller...Thanks again!

 and what is group 4 oil?

Group 4 oil is real synthetic oil.  Because the Americans managed to change the definition of "synthetic" motor oil in the North American market one now can't trust the word "synthetic".  Fake synthetic which now include some Mobil 1 oils and most others made in NA are Group 3.

For your Acura just stick with regular oil every 4 months or 5000 km.  Any synthetic will probably cause leaks at this stage.

[barrie1]

But you said Castrol was the fake Synthetic Steve and now its Mobil one as well.  Sounds like they are all mostly really good to me if you do the maintenance correctly on your vehicle. If Sunnoco's oil any good like their Fuel? 

[articsteve]

But you said Castrol was the fake Synthetic Steve and now its Mobil one as well.  Sounds like they are all mostly really good to me if you do the maintenance correctly on your vehicle. If Sunnoco's oil any good like their Fuel? 

But you said Castrol was the fake Synthetic Steve

I said Castrol USA was the company that first pushed the fake synthetic.  Of course many have followed; the American way.   There is a good thread/post in this section with specifics on brands.  Go back one month.  Read and learn. 

[barrie1]

If memory serves me correct Sunnoco was one of the if not 1st brands to offer Synthetic oil years ago at a rather high price of around $10.00 a qt. This was when regular dino oil was .89 a qt.