Dent's Seven (an update)

[Arthur Dent]

Made sure the rear end will fit. Everything looks good. Just need to modify the rear brackets and weld them onto the axle. My rims should look nice once I get some rubber on them. There is 1 and 3/4" between the rim and the rear links - I think that should be enough. With stock (ugly, ugly) or fwd offset rims I'm sure I would have needed spacers.

[safristi]

Ooooh tha RUBBER is gonna be a tight FIT...any room fer FLEX?...............

[The Mighty Duck]

1200 lbs?     That thing will certainly rip...  hang on. 

What about a Toyota MR2 engine?  Or a Nissan SR20 out of a 240.  The JDM version came with a turbo, I've seen them tuned to ~250+ whp. 

[safristi]

Orange & BLACK...is that the colour scheme ARFUR?...what about.....BRG&WHITE with red hi_lites onna Calipers??........

[Arthur Dent]

MR2 engine? The 4AGE - definitely a possibility - the later 20 valve version looks really nice. A Nissan SR or SA would be rather nice but I think they are too big especially in the transmission area. Not sure my rear end could handle the power of a decent turbo SR motor. If I could find a Suzuki G13 out of a Swift GTi/GT and a Samarui tranny that would be ideal really.

I think the black will be mostly hidden except for the rollbar so mostly orange and silver I guess. BGR would be nice but fiberglass quality is so good I don't need to paint. Could be done a couple years down the line though.

[safristi]

MY ..REAR END COULD & CAN!!!! ..build IT and they will COME.....

[Arthur Dent]

I've no doubt your rear end can (and has?) take a pounding.. 

[ovr50]

 

[safristi]

still "DENT" less after ALL these YEARS!!!!!

[Giant Dwarf]

You mentioned looking for a Miata 1.6L (ie. one of the really original ones).  Given that they're fairly compact and already set up for small RWD usage, it makes a lot of sense to me too.  But is the slightly later 1.8L too big?  The overall size of the engine has got to be pretty close to the same as the 1.6 - just essentially bored out, isn't it?

Either way, the nice thing about the Miata engines are the vast numbers of them out there; the superb longevity and durability; the 'already-in-rwd' setup and that there's a ton of aftermarket parts available to you as well.   

[Arthur Dent]

Yeah the 1.8L engine is very similar - the block is just a little longer than the 1.6L - nothing to worry about really. Its just I thought I had a good line on cheap 1.6L Miata engines out of Japan but seems that doesn't include the ECU, some sensors and wiring. Probably cost a fortune to buy all those parts - an aftermarket injection system is an option but likely over $1000US. Problem with Miatas is they are worth too damn much in Canada. We'll see what turns up for a good price I guess.

[safristi]

SHOVE yer OLD SPITFIRE in there and we won't TELL ON YA!!!!

[Giant Dwarf]

Hey, ya gotta pay to play I guess.  Don't want to cheap out on the 7 now!

[Arthur Dent]

I'm not going to cheap but if its going a cost $2k then there are some other options like Toyota 4AGE 20 valve and such. The Miata motor has some advantages but its also rather heavy.

oh and for the record the Spitfire engine was by far the weakest part of the whole car.

[The Mighty Duck]

From what you're saying, a 4AGE is probably the best bet.  I think you'd be a lot happier with that engine than a Miata powerplant, and it's probably "only" $1000 more or so?  I'm guessing around $2000 (mind, I don't know Toyota prices, but a decent Honda powerplant would be around $2k).

An SR would be nice until it killed you, methinks. 

[Arthur Dent]

I can get a Miata engine + tranny for $500US + shipping. Aftermarket FI would be at least $1000US. So 120hp, already rwd and a nice gearbox for probably around $2k cdn.

or

Old school 80s Toyota 4AGE w/5spd - probably get a whole Corolla GTS rustbucket/parts car for around $1k if I wait for a deal. Need to convert clutch slave to Saab and they are usually high mileage. ~110hp for $1k Cdn.

Or Toyota 4AGE 20 Valve - $750US + shipping. Needs to be converted to rwd with a lot of the above GTS parts including 5spd, starter, oil pan, etc. So probably an extra $500Cdn. Then needs aftermarket ECU which is $1k US. So probably $3K is likely but it does have 150hp or so, low mileage and individual throttle bodies.

Now the darkhorse is a Suzuki G13B - from Swift GT - 1.3L DOHC motor with 100hp and weights almost half the other options. So say $500 for an engine. $500 for Samuari tranny, starter, oil pan. The FI is a little bulky but maybe aftermarket or carbs there too.

I just don't know but the G13B is looking better and better even if its more work than the Miata and less powerful than the 4AGE.

[Giant Dwarf]

Do you have a preference of carbs versus FI for this machine?

If you were to go for the older Toyota engine, would there be any hardships getting parts for it down the road given that it's already older to begin with?

[Arthur Dent]

I'd perfer carbs as its super easy to install but haven't found a carb engine I'd want and fits except the Lotus 907 engine (hard to find, pricey, etc). But if something is already FI its hard to justify coverting it to carbs given less driveability and a good carb setup is not cheap. The old Toyota A4GE likely won't present any issues with getting parts but I don't know if I want to toss in a motor with 200k into what is essentially a brand new car (diff has only 40k kms on it, spindles are restored, steering rack re-built, steering column used but looks good). The 20 valve version might be harder to get parts as they only sold it in Japan but supply seems ok.

[Snowman]

This is cool stuff. Has anybody ever used a two-stroke bike or snowmobile engine for ultimate lightness and power? 

[Arthur Dent]

There are a few pure auto-x beasts with snowmobile motors (with the CVT too) that are amazingly fast. I'd perfer a car engine and traditional gearbox since mine is mostly a street car.