Topic: Special Oil Filter for Synthetic Oil?

[yugrus]

FYI if you have a PartsSource near you, they have 5.4L (4.4 + 1) on sale this week for $29.99.  Great deal.  5w30 or 10w30.    Picked some up for myself this afternoon.

BTW, I checked that out. To me, this deal doesn't not worth it unless you find bottles with API Starburst "for gasoline engines" symbol. If the bottle does not carry it, that means it is from "post-Catherine indulgence" batch. Manufacturers were allowed go get loose on the oil quality for some time, and the oil produced did not meet API specifications. It is still good PAO oil, but with the different additive pack. Or at least that is what they say...
I wouldn't use it.

[84im]

Trainman, I owned a 93 Pathfinder for 8 years (loved that SUV)  I ran synthetic from the get-go.  I always used Nissan oil filters.  130,000 kms and she ran like a clock!

[curls]

You mean Mobil 1? I'll check tomorrow whether it is SM or still SL.
Speaking of synthetics, here in Canada we have a privilege of access to the very fine oil that Americans do not have. It is Esso Extra XD-3. This heavy duty oil exists as true PAO synthetics in 0w30 and 0w40, but there are other weights in non-synthetic flavor. It shows the same or better wear results in used oil analyses and has many other advantages over the oils we all used to. It is much thicker then M1 at operating temperature too.
The catch is that it is only available at Wal-Mart (sometimes, not everywhere) and at Esso bulk oil dealers. I've recently got my 4x4L box for about $80, taxes included...

Funny you mentioned that.  I actually did a lot of reading on bobistheoilguy.com after I bought the Mobil 1, and heard about the XD-3.  I have an Esso distribution center about 8k from me, so I brought the Mobil 1 back, and got the XD-3 (0w30) instead, and saved about $5 in the process.

Gonna put that in this month at some point.

Oh, and for filters, supposedly "Napa Gold" brand (at Napa auto parts, obviously) are EXCELLENT filters, made by Wix.  I gotta get that this week, too...

[curls]

BTW, I checked that out. To me, this deal doesn't not worth it unless you find bottles with API Starburst "for gasoline engines" symbol. If the bottle does not carry it, that means it is from "post-Catherine indulgence" batch. Manufacturers were allowed go get loose on the oil quality for some time, and the oil produced did not meet API specifications. It is still good PAO oil, but with the different additive pack. Or at least that is what they say...
I wouldn't use it.

btw, I noticed that the Xd-3 0w30 does NOT have that starburst... yet is still highly recommended on BITOG.com by many experts.  Why would this be so?

[yugrus]

XD-3 can not bear API starburst symbol for many reasons. It is heavy duty oil, intended primarily for diesels. It has very high content of detergents and its additive pack is different from what the starburst symbol demands. Same story as with most Amsoil oils.
And no, this oil will not poison your catalytic converter.

[weebl]

For aftermarket filters, I personally like the Napa Gold as well, though Purolator and AC Delco are also on my good list.

For OEM, any that are made by Toyo Roki (or by it's North American subsidiary Tennex), Mann & Hummel, Bosch and Denso.

I stay away from anything made by the four letter F-word company, including OEM filters they make for Mazda and Honda to name a few.

[Trainman]

So last change had the syn put in along with the NAPA Gold filter.

Noticed right away that the motor needs about half the cranking than before to start up, not that the VQ needs a lot of cranking.

But no change in fuel consumption so far.

[Wolfe]

Thanks for posting the update Trainman. 

I will be switching to synthetic in my RAV4 in a few months. I've got a bit over 100 000Kms on it now so I'm particularly interested to know how much mileage you had on the Pathfinder when you made the switch and any issues that may arise as a result. I'm guessing you are in the 90-100k Km range or so.

Please keep us updated on your longer term impressions. 

[Trainman]

Thanks for posting the update Trainman. 

I will be switching to synthetic in my RAV4 in a few months. I've got a bit over 100 000Kms on it now so I'm particularly interested to know how much mileage you had on the Pathfinder when you made the switch and any issues that may arise as a result. I'm guessing you are in the 90-100k Km range or so.

Please keep us updated on your longer term impressions. 

100,000 km, no issues at all (no leaks, that is the most common).  Engine is notable smoother, with very quick start ups.

To date, as noted, no change in fuel consumption but will post if that changes.

And for sure on the long term results.

[Wolfe]

The potential for leaks from gaskets is what concerns me most about switching. I'm glad this hasn't been a problem for you. 

[AVToller]

The potential for leaks from gaskets is what concerns me most about switching. I'm glad this hasn't been a problem for you. 

I don't think that should pose too much of a problem IF you kept the engine relatively clean during its prior life on dino. If sludgy buildup is what has been keeping the gaskets from leaking, THEN you will have major leaks after the switch.

[Trainman]

I did 2 quick dino changes, at 95 and 98,000 km, before the syn went in (for other reasons) but it may have helped to clean out the engine.

[curls]

The potential for leaks from gaskets is what concerns me most about switching. I'm glad this hasn't been a problem for you. 

That is RARELY a problem, and is normally only a problem when your engine was being held together, so to speak, by the sludge that the dino oil let form in it.

Sludge is bad no matter what way you look at it -- I'd switch to syn awap in order to clean that engine out and prolong its life.

[barrie1]

The longest lasting thing you can do to any engine is just change the Oil when its due.  You can choose the new Syn oils that cost a good dollar to-day and run them in your vehicle if you like. Dino will do the same job for you much cheaper but how long are you keeping this particular car in the future. Most folks get too bored after about 3-5 years they are out shopping again. You have spent a ton of money maintaining this engine for someone else to drive after you have already been screwed on the trade-in. 5 years depreciation is only one of the loss's. I use the Dino Oil as I can change it at least twice for the cost of the one generally. 

[Wolfe]

I don't think that should pose too much of a problem IF you kept the engine relatively clean during its prior life on dino. If sludgy buildup is what has been keeping the gaskets from leaking, THEN you will have major leaks after the switch.

That is RARELY a problem, and is normally only a problem when your engine was being held together, so to speak, by the sludge that the dino oil let form in it.

Sludge is bad no matter what way you look at it -- I'd switch to syn awap in order to clean that engine out and prolong its life.

Well in that regard I'm at the mercy of the previous owner. The dino oil that was changed out a couple of weeks ago looked very clean, likely because I haven't put alot of mileage on the car since I bought it.

I don't think the engine is being held together by oil sludge so I should be fine.

At this point I've done a bit of reading about synthetics. Enough to know there are some potential problems but not enough to know all about them. Just goes to show how a little knowledge can be a dangerous thing.

Also when I do the switch to synthetic I plan to do it myself. It'll be my first DIY oil change. It should be fun. 

[Trainman]

The longest lasting thing you can do to any engine is just change the Oil when its due.  You can choose the new Syn oils that cost a good dollar to-day and run them in your vehicle if you like. Dino will do the same job for you much cheaper but how long are you keeping this particular car in the future. Most folks get too bored after about 3-5 years they are out shopping again. You have spent a ton of money maintaining this engine for someone else to drive after you have already been screwed on the trade-in. 5 years depreciation is only one of the loss's. I use the Dino Oil as I can change it at least twice for the cost of the one generally. 

I am on the up side of this, I bought the Pathy used and plan on keeping it for 5 years or to 250,000 km, whatever comes first.

I bought the syn on sale at CT, just waiting for another sale so I can stock up.  As you mention, regular oil changes are the backbone of long life for a motor, so for the little bit extra, I am going with the syn.  It costs me over $10,000 per year to run my truck, and the oil changes are only a very small part of that, so the extra cost is no big deal.

[Wolfe]

The longest lasting thing you can do to any engine is just change the Oil when its due. You can choose the new Syn oils that cost a good dollar to-day and run them in your vehicle if you like. Dino will do the same job for you much cheaper but how long are you keeping this particular car in the future. Most folks get too bored after about 3-5 years they are out shopping again. You have spent a ton of money maintaining this engine for someone else to drive after you have already been screwed on the trade-in. 5 years depreciation is only one of the loss's. I use the Dino Oil as I can change it at least twice for the cost of the one generally.

Barrie I plan on keeping my car for the rest of its life so the main benefits of using syntheic won't be enjoyed by another owner in a few years.

That's not to say I won't be bored with driving it but at that point I figure an older Miata would be a great way to have lots of driving fun while keeping the reliable, economical, and versatile RAV4 for everything else. See I've got a plan. 

As for cost, doing the changes myself will help while giving me a nice sense of accomplishment. The layout of the 2.0L in my RAV4 makes changing the oil and filter relatively easy as the filter isn't mounted sideways in some hard to reach spot. With the good ground clearance I could probably do it without putting it up on axel stands.

[Trainman]

...
As for cost, doing the changes myself will help while giving me a nice sense of accomplishment. The layout of the 2.0L in my RAV4 makes changing the oil and filter relatively easy as the filter isn't mounted sideways in some hard to reach spot. With the good ground clearance I could probably do it without putting it up on axel stands.

I need a hoist for mine due to the skid plates having to come off to get to the filter and drain plug.  The shop and I discussed making access hatches for these, we will see how it goes.  The plates are heavy and awkward to handle, it would be a pain to do it without a hoist.

[airbalancer]

Changing the oil of the BMW is probably the easiest to do, you do not have to get under the car
Here is a DIY http://www.bmw325i.net/maint_oil_extractor.shtml

[barrie1]

That certainly looks like an easy way of draining the oil but does it get all of the sludge from the farthest reachs of the oil pan. I would be concerned about the left overs that don't come out over time.