Author Topic: rotor & brake pad damage from salt & sand (Read 2189 times)

sprinter · « **on:** March 31, 2006, 04:02:17 pm »

I just replaced 4 rotors and corresponding pairs of brake pads. The dealer says my rotors were so corroded they just ate up the brake pads. I've had this 6 years. Is this normal wear and tear?

Dealer says even with annual servicing, it wouldn't help much, specially with the rear brakes due to the amount of sand and salt used in our winters. How does one "clean" these parts without going to a shop?

Thanks.

Trainman · « **Reply #1 on:** March 31, 2006, 06:30:29 pm »

Quote from: sprinter on March 31, 2006, 04:02:17 pm

I just replaced 4 rotors and corresponding pairs of brake pads. The dealer says my rotors were so corroded they just ate up the brake pads. I've had this 6 years. Is this normal wear and tear?

Dealer says even with annual servicing, it wouldn't help much, specially with the rear brakes due to the amount of sand and salt used in our winters. How does one "clean" these parts without going to a shop?

Thanks.

So you got 6 years from the pads and rotors? Wow, I wish I could.

I generally get 60,000 km from pads and generally machine or replace the rotors at that time.

So I would say routine maintenance.

Snowman · « **Reply #2 on:** March 31, 2006, 07:14:46 pm »

Quote from: Trainman on March 31, 2006, 06:30:29 pm

So you got 6 years from the pads and rotors? Wow, I wish I could.

I generally get 60,000 km from pads and generally machine or replace the rotors at that time.

So I would say routine maintenance.

60k is good for pads. Three years is an avaerage lifetime time for brakes.

Craig · « **Reply #3 on:** April 01, 2006, 12:25:37 am »

Six years is abnormally low wear and tear. At some point, you have to spend money to maintain your car. The rumours are true.

initial_D · « **Reply #4 on:** April 01, 2006, 02:39:07 am »

Quote from: sprinter on March 31, 2006, 04:02:17 pm

I just replaced 4 rotors and corresponding pairs of brake pads. The dealer says my rotors were so corroded they just ate up the brake pads. I've had this 6 years. Is this normal wear and tear?

Dealer says even with annual servicing, it wouldn't help much, specially with the rear brakes due to the amount of sand and salt used in our winters. How does one "clean" these parts without going to a shop?

Thanks.

Spray and wash the underside of the car frequently, don't use automatic car washers. If the rotors are corroded, they have to be replaced. Rotors can last 200K if you are a "gentle driver". 6 years is a lot of time for pads tho.

What kind of car is it?

safristi · « **Reply #5 on:** April 01, 2006, 08:20:26 am »

Well wouldn't ya just look at those PADDIES.......sure & Begorrah I belief the wifey changes them YEARLY!!!

initial_D · « **Reply #6 on:** April 01, 2006, 11:31:44 am »

sprinter · « **Reply #7 on:** April 01, 2006, 10:01:53 pm »

Thanks. I don't feel to bad now

I drive a Chevy Blazer.

initial_D · « **Reply #8 on:** April 01, 2006, 10:13:09 pm »

Quote from: sprinter on April 01, 2006, 10:01:53 pm

Thanks. I don't feel to bad now I drive a Chevy Blazer.

6 years in a Blazer and still running? Call Lutz and send it into the GM R&D lab to test what they actually did right.

sprinter · « **Reply #9 on:** November 22, 2006, 01:11:40 pm »

About 3 months after my pads and rotors were changed, I noticed a low grinding sound when I step on the brakes, just before the vehiclle comes to a stop. The same thing happens if I partially release the brake from a complete stop. I can also feel the vibration on the brake pedal. It is most pronounced at times when the vehicle is coming down or going up a slope. I think the noise is on my front tires.

What irks me is that it does not happen regularly. Some days it's fine, on some days it's there. It's now 8 months and the problem is still there. I've brought it to the dealer twice and in both cases, the issue didn't appear. I'm tempted to just ignore this until it becomes chronic. Problem is that I drive the highways and have an infant on board. I'm worried the brakes may fail at the worst time.

Can anyone hazard a guess as to what's wrong and if I should worry?

Thanks.

sprinter · « **Reply #10 on:** November 22, 2006, 01:17:59 pm »

Maybe because it only has 90k on it?

6 years in a Blazer and still running? Call Lutz and send it into the GM R&D lab to test what they actually did right.

Quote

mrthompson · « **Reply #11 on:** November 22, 2006, 01:35:27 pm »

Is the grinding sound more pronounced when the vehicle has been sitting overnight (or longer), or during rainy/wet weather?

articsteve · « **Reply #12 on:** November 22, 2006, 01:56:24 pm »

Can anyone hazard a guess as to what's wrong and if I should worry?

Brake failure will occur when one of your hydraulic brake lines pop a hole due to rust and they do rust away in those vehicles prematurely unless it's sprayed yearly with an anti rust inhibitor like Krown.

You could have a deteriorating wheel bearing which is common and expensive to replace on those vehicles.

If you have had any thoughts of replacing your vehicle now is the time to do it. At about your mileage and age those vehicles really go down hill and are actually quite unsafe for occupants.

sprinter · « **Reply #13 on:** November 22, 2006, 03:05:59 pm »

First thing in the vehicle doesn't make a peep and thinking back, it's usually after it's been running a while. Not sure but I'd say usually in dry conditions.

Arctic Steve, one issue I've noticed for years is getting off the highway, I usually come to a complete stop at the bottom of the ramp. When I let go of the brakes and move forward, I can almost feel a hesitation and a bit of a grinding sound under the car just as the differential starts to move (at least that's what I visualize it to be). A mechanic I mentioned that to says it might be my wheel bearing too. Wonder if they're related.

On that note, what kind of expenses am I looking at to replace them?

Thanks.

articsteve · « **Reply #14 on:** November 22, 2006, 03:41:56 pm »

$600 each side plus tax, but then you may get into ball joints and tie rods because they need to be removed. Like I say, if you can get out of that vehicle now do so. A fuel pump in that vehicle will end up costing 1K. The hidden costs of owning particular GMs.

Do not drive in 4x4 unless your in thick snow or mud. It is not an all wheel drive vehicle, but most are driven on wet pavement in 4x4 and it wrecks a lot of things.

tortoise · « **Reply #15 on:** November 22, 2006, 04:12:50 pm »

$600 a side? That's double my P5 and it's FWD!

articsteve · « **Reply #16 on:** November 22, 2006, 08:39:38 pm »

Well so is a Blazer, but that is besides the point. For a front bearing one needs to buy the entire hub.

Lose the fuel sender (gas gauge) and one needs to replace the fuel pump, all lines and the tank needs to come off the car. Usually the fuel sender or fuel pumps and lines are sold separately. GM got into these "integrated" parts to save money. However, because they are of Russian quality they don't last. The cost of either a fuel pump or gas gauge problem in a Blazer is 1K parts and labour. In a car of any quality the fuel tanks need not be removed to replace a pump or fuel sender.

GMs blow in general, but these Blazers were 100K km/5 year vehicles and then they self destruct.

ktm525 · « **Reply #17 on:** November 23, 2006, 05:13:28 pm »

Why do I have a weird feeling that Barrie is going to show up with some GM love?

safristi · « **Reply #18 on:** November 23, 2006, 06:20:16 pm »

He's putting on HIS BLUE GM Blazer before ascending the Podium...and he's presently searching fer the matching GUTCHIES.....

.."balls" U say............

sprinter · « **Reply #19 on:** November 24, 2006, 11:28:29 pm »

Gee I wish it were simpler. Right now I am looking at replacing a Saturn LS2000 so replacing the Blazer will have to happen much later. Although both are paid off, a new baby and home renovation requires me to hang on to one. I'm new to the area so will have to look for a good and reasonably priced repair shop around Pickering