Topic: Rustproofing question

[safristi]

 

[Snowman]

Enough, Let us rust in pease.

[Trainman]

Back on topic   

When I was looking for a used SUV, I saw several that had a thick, black, rubber type undercoating on just about everything underneath.  And on all of the 4Runners and Pathfinders I looked at that had this stuff, it was peeling in places.  Trapped under the peeling was dirt, sand, organic stuff and who knows what else.  My own thoughts were "what a great place to trap moisture".  My own thoughts for what they are worth  .

I have never rust proofed any vehicle I have bought, new or used and I have never had any vehicle that had the thick black stuff so I can not offer any experiences to what I have just said.  But based on what I have seen (these were trucks between 3-6 years old) I would be very hesitant on the thick black stuff.  Not a clue about any spray on type.

We have never had a rust issue with any new vehicle and we tend to keep them longer than average (8 years or so) but only you can make the call on rust proofing for the conditions you live in (or move to BC  )

[articsteve]

I went to the old guy...at Markham and Lawrence

Until you scan your receipt in from the above-mentioned location I will consider this just another porkie.  Block your name, address and plate number.

If the old guy is still there he is a pro.  No minimum wage kids doing the job which is typical in the business.

[Craig]

I don't know how many cars y'all have driven or how many car manuals y'all have read but I recall reading from some reading that a higher octane than required might cause engine damage or pinging. This may have been in a Toronto Star article some years ago.

More misinformation.  I responded to that one too, but only realized it was from the same author now.

As I've implored of you before:  If you don't know, ASK.

Don't go pulling "information" out of the air and spreading it like this.  "A salesman told me..." is not good enough.  "I think I read an article once..." is absolute crap.  You know less about cars than the vast majority of the population, but you can still contribute by asking good questions.  Even Picard is starting to figure how to do that.  By spreading ill-informed, false assumptions, you're poisoning the content of an otherwise excellent online forum.

[articsteve]

Yeah, I've noticed articsteve being quite pro-Krown as well.  I've had the 'worthless dripless gunk' applied to my car when I bought it and I'm quite happy with it so far.  I'll be glad to post anything that happens to the car rust-wise in the future to prove/disprove this.

Articsteve's right when he says that the dripless stuff can and will trap moisture in.  This is why my Subaru dealership insisted it be done before I took the car on the road to minimize/eliminate this problem.  Once again, I'll be glad to post anything should something occur.

I took the dripless option over Krown for the following reasons:
- cheaper in the long run
- no dripping anywhere
- no smell
- no making appointments every year

If you have a used car, Krown's your only option as the dripless stuff will indeed trap moisture.  If you have a new car that you haven't taken delivery of yet, then the one-shot dripless stuff does become a viable option.

Since an educate consumer is worth his/her weight in gold, check out both sites and compare the pros/cons:

http://www.krown.com/

http://www.permaplate.com/

Both companies seem, IMO, good and they've both been in business for decades.

 I've had the 'worthless dripless gunk' applied to my car when I bought it and I'm quite happy with it so far.

You need to be because of your up front costs.    It takes 8 to 12 years for rust to pop thru if it is exposed to salt.  At which point the car is a goner.

Articsteve's right when he says that the dripless stuff can and will trap moisture in.

If the guckie stuff formed a permanent moisture barrier somebody would be using it on foundations.

The guckie stuff does not atomize, hence it can't enter interior panels and spread.  If you ever have the opportunity to peel open an interior body panel you will see what a farce your stuff is.  Go to wrecking yards and examine cars that have been torn apart in accidents and invariably you will find one that has been the recipient of the guckie stuff and what you see inside a panel is a line of the stuff and then lines of drips were gravity took the stuff and then it dried on the way down and stopped.

Here is what Krown will do for cars as well as save the body panels.  If you worked on 10 year old cars it would mean something to you.  This take from the site ex-Junkie posted above.

Seams, welds, folds, and crevices
Riveted pieces, chains

Door & lock mechanisms

Gas tanks & straps

Brake cables

Wheel hub nuts

Oil pan, transmission nuts & bolts

Mirror mounts

Seized parts, nuts, and bolts

Rollers, castors, hinges, brackets, release cables
    Window door/lock mechanisms

Coil & leaf springs, U bolts

Electrical wiring, lights, electrical connectors, battery post & cables

Any area where dissimilar metals are fastened (aluminum & steel)

Radiator brackets, shrouds & casings

Headlight Adjusters
 

[articsteve]

I don't know how many cars y'all have driven or how many car manuals y'all have read but I recall reading from some reading that a higher octane than required might cause engine damage or pinging. This may have been in a Toronto Star article some years ago.

More misinformation.  I responded to that one too, but only realized it was from the same author now.

As I've implored of you before:  If you don't know, ASK.

Don't go pulling "information" out of the air and spreading it like this.  "A salesman told me..." is not good enough.  "I think I read an article once..." is absolute crap.  You know less about cars than the vast majority of the population, but you can still contribute by asking good questions.  Even Picard is starting to figure how to do that.  By spreading ill-informed, false assumptions, you're poisoning the content of an otherwise excellent online forum.

Thankyou

[exJunkie]

The guckie stuff does not atomize, hence it can't enter interior panels and spread.  If you ever have the opportunity to peel

Since when does an oil product have to "atomize" in order for it to enter interiror panels and spread? I suppose you have a bachelor of science in chemistry artic? Fancy words to make it sound like you are a little more intelligent than the rest of those on this web site. But in fact , its just fancy words.

I posted my experience with Krown, having had 3 new cars Krowne'd at two different locations. Based on that experience and the results I posted my opinions. People are  intelligent to make their own decisions about it.

[exJunkie]

My experience on my brand new car after having it rustproofed by Krown. The car was not washed immidiately afterwards as I was use to so the oil had time to accumulate on certain rubber moulding around the windows which seal water out. The result was that the rubber distored and warped and left huge gaps for water etc to get into the car. Even after washing the car thoroughly a couple of days later, oil continued to seep and accumulate around the rubber mouldings which caused further distortion.

My suggestion is to go to a good Krown rust applicator. Particularly one that washes your cars outside immediately after the treatment. You just don't need the oil on the outside anyways. So , it can be washed off without reducing the positive effects of the treatment.

I would go to Krown rustproofing again but only to the Etobicoke , Ontario location. They have a good web site. They wash your car, especially the moulding around the windows and this keeps them in good shape. I don't know how much the technicians get paid, I am not going to make a guess about it and treat them any less than I would someone else based on their salary, ut they are polite, and listen to you and do a good job. They are thorough, organized, and your car is maticulously protected. The owner is always in the shop and lets you watch the whole process. Answers all your questions. I have seen all kinds of cars lined up on Saturday mornings. Jaguar, and others. See the web site below. The workers have lots of room in their shop to work and can walk around under neath your car and thoroughly spray the underside. Not spritzing like some other places do.

http://www.krown.com/etobicoke 

[wing]

Ok exJunkie, you have said your peace.

Thanks.