KROWN rust proofing: good and bad experience

[X-Traction]

Various comments on this:

This oil-spray rustproofing won't completely stop the rusting on a rusted car.  It will slow it down by at least 90%.  So it's never too late.  I wouldn't bother having it done on a new car until the underbody has lots of surface rust or you get the first signs of rust in the bottoms of the doors.

Krown used to have a place in Vancouver, but it's not available anymore.  Now the closest place with this type of treatment is a Ziebart outlet on the North Shore.  Cars that have this done drip oil for days or weeks.  I understand this has come to the attention of regulators as a pollution issue, and has been behind the banning of this process in some jurisdictions.  This should be balanced against the environmental cost of premature replacement of cars.  Not to mention what we have to do to make the money to buy replacement cars.

Knowing that the car will drip for a while, you may not want to park it on a fancy driveway or in your garage without a drop cloth under it.

The oil mixture affects rubber.  If it gets on door weatherstripping, for instance, the rubber will swell.  I assume this also happens on underbody components like suspension and steering bushings.  Oddly, my experience has been that this keeps them tight and extends their lifespan.  It also acts somewhat as a chassis lube.

If the spray gets on the rubber or fuzz side window wipers inside the tops of the doors, your side windows will get streaked with the stuff for months.  It's not designed to be easy to remove.  I have no idea about the effect of the stuff on other components, such as door speakers.

It is difficult to identify all the vulnerable nooks and crannies on any particular vehicle and ensure the applicators treat those areas.  I had a '79 Impala station wagon, and they never seemed to get inside the body cavities to the sides of the tailgate.  I have a '91 Pathfinder, and they need specific directions to spray inside the back ends of the rocker panels, which are a rust breeding spot on those cars.  There were places on both these vehicles that the treatment, and any other, simply would not stop rust.  Such as along the top of the windshield.

The stuff makes one "H" of a mess on the underbody and in the engine compartment.  Mechanics hate working with the mess that results.  You will get false reports that your vehicle has all sorts of fluid leaks that must be fixed.  Even false battery leak reports.  If you drive on dirt roads, it will cake up with sand etc. making an even more delightful mess.  Heavy dust also absorbs the oil off the metal and so degrades the protection.

You can have a partial job done if you request it.  For instance, underside only and not inside the doors.  I found that having this done every 2 years was sufficient.  It would depend on your driving environment and your car.  Our '90 Dodge Spirit has almost zero rust, and has never been sprayed.  The Impala and Pathfinder rusted enthusiastically, but both were driven extensively outside the city in winter.

The outside of your vehicle may need a very thorough cleaning after being treated.  But you should wait for a few days to allow the oil to creep everywhere, or you could be washing it away from places it needs to protect.

I haven't watched it being applied, but I can imagine the quality of the application would vary widely.

All of this has to be balanced against the cost to replace cars, and the resale value.

[Geraldo]

sounds like a messy pain in the arse...

[Craig]

I had a 91 YJ that I held on to for 6 years, and it had zero rust except for the hinges (ALL external Jeep hinges of that era would rust within 6 months of ownership).  The stuff may be a bit messy for a couple of days, but it's entirely worth it.

[articsteve]

Various comments on this:

This oil-spray rustproofing won't completely stop the rusting on a rusted car.  It will slow it down by at least 90%.  So it's never too late. 
Krown used to have a place in Vancouver, but it's not available anymore.  Now the closest place with this type of treatment is a Ziebart outlet on the North Shore.  Cars that have this done drip oil for days or weeks.  I understand this has come to the attention of regulators as a pollution issue, and has been behind the banning of this process in some jurisdictions.  This should be balanced against the environmental cost of premature replacement of cars.  Not to mention what we have to do to make the money to buy replacement cars.

Knowing that the car will drip for a while, you may not want to park it on a fancy driveway or in your garage without a drop cloth under it.

The oil mixture affects rubber.  If it gets on door weatherstripping, for instance, the rubber will swell.  I assume this also happens on underbody components like suspension and steering bushings.  Oddly, my experience has been that this keeps them tight and extends their lifespan.  It also acts somewhat as a chassis lube.

If the spray gets on the rubber or fuzz side window wipers inside the tops of the doors, your side windows will get streaked with the stuff for months.  It's not designed to be easy to remove.  I have no idea about the effect of the stuff on other components, such as door speakers.

It is difficult to identify all the vulnerable nooks and crannies on any particular vehicle and ensure the applicators treat those areas.  I had a '79 Impala station wagon, and they never seemed to get inside the body cavities to the sides of the tailgate.  I have a '91 Pathfinder, and they need specific directions to spray inside the back ends of the rocker panels, which are a rust breeding spot on those cars.  There were places on both these vehicles that the treatment, and any other, simply would not stop rust.  Such as along the top of the windshield.

The stuff makes one "H" of a mess on the underbody and in the engine compartment.  Mechanics hate working with the mess that results.  You will get false reports that your vehicle has all sorts of fluid leaks that must be fixed.  Even false battery leak reports.  If you drive on dirt roads, it will cake up with sand etc. making an even more delightful mess.  Heavy dust also absorbs the oil off the metal and so degrades the protection.

You can have a partial job done if you request it.  For instance, underside only and not inside the doors.  I found that having this done every 2 years was sufficient.  It would depend on your driving environment and your car.  Our '90 Dodge Spirit has almost zero rust, and has never been sprayed.  The Impala and Pathfinder rusted enthusiastically, but both were driven extensively outside the city in winter.

The outside of your vehicle may need a very thorough cleaning after being treated.  But you should wait for a few days to allow the oil to creep everywhere, or you could be washing it away from places it needs to protect.

I haven't watched it being applied, but I can imagine the quality of the application would vary widely.

All of this has to be balanced against the cost to replace cars, and the resale value.

I wouldn't bother having it done on a new car until the underbody has lots of surface rust or you get the first signs of rust in the bottoms of the doors.

Wrong.  By then it's much too late. Krown won't retard rust once it's taken hold.  Nothing will other than submerging the car in a vat of oil and leaving it there.

 I understand this has come to the attention of regulators as a pollution issue, and has been behind the banning of this process in some jurisdictions.

Name them or snowy yourself. 

The oil mixture affects rubber.

Apparently virgin rubber used on Volvo.  You need to wipe it off.  I never had any trouble on my S70.

I assume this also happens on underbody components like suspension and steering bushings.  Don't assume 

It also acts somewhat as a chassis lube.

Somewhat   It is a major chassis lube.  That among other things sets it aside from the drip less junk like Zeibert.

It's not designed to be easy to remove

Very easy to remove from windows; soap and water.

The stuff makes one "H" of a mess on the under body and in the engine compartment.  Mechanics hate working with the mess that results

It makes no mess at all and mechanics love.  Obviously you don't work underneath cars.

Now the closest place with this type of treatment is a Ziebart outlet on the North Shore.

Zeibert not even remotely close to Krown or Rust Check for that matter.  You have no idea what your talking about.

[articsteve]

Do new cars even need this?

The last Toyota I bought had a 12 year rust/corrosion warranty, so if it gets even slightly corroded, take it back...

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

The early the vehicle gets treated the better the results later on.

[Craig]

It should also be noted that most rust warranties only cover "perforation".  Also known as, "there's a goddamn hole in my car".

[barrie1]

It is Very highly rated that you do this ASAP after buying any New Car or truck and always will be. Artic is 100% correct in that waiting until later is way too late. 

[Panzer]

 

[canadianexpress]

Also Krown provides warranty for new cars only, and if the application is done every year (no later than 13 months between application).

[jonl]

I have had my 2004 Impreza done at Rust Check every year, starting in October 2003, when it was 1 week old , so 3 applications to date.  I expect to keep the car for at least 10 years.

Arcticsteve - Please explain the basis for "However Krown is superior to Rust Check".  Is there testing or documentation that demonstrates the superiority of Krown?  I'm happy with Rust Check at Wolfdale & Dundas in Mississauga, however, I'd switch with good reason.

I have been thinking about going every other year.  Seems that many people here would endorse this schedule. 

[barrie1]

I believe the Used Car Association of Ont recognizes Krown as being the No.1 rust prohibitor because they usually advertise most cars that have had this service done and charge around $1000. more for them. To me that is a pretty good reason in its own right. Rust CheckI believe is the next best. 

[Turbo Bob]

Do new cars even need this?

The last Toyota I bought had a 12 year rust/corrosion warranty, so if it gets even slightly corroded, take it back...

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

The early the vehicle gets treated the better the results later on.

Still don't understand this I'm afraid, we use a lot of salt too, but if the car is well made, well maintained, washed regularly and any paint chips touched up, then what's the problem?  Especially with a warranty (from what I remember my Toyota one did not require perforation).
 

[Snowman]

Do new cars even need this?

The last Toyota I bought had a 12 year rust/corrosion warranty, so if it gets even slightly corroded, take it back...

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

The early the vehicle gets treated the better the results later on.

Still don't understand this I'm afraid, we use a lot of salt too, but if the car is well made, well maintained, washed regularly and any paint chips touched up, then what's the problem?  Especially with a warranty (from what I remember my Toyota one did not require perforation).
 

Not are as insane like myself to wash a car three times a week during the winter…..Bob.

[articsteve]

I have had my 2004 Impreza done at Rust Check every year, starting in October 2003, when it was 1 week old , so 3 applications to date.  I expect to keep the car for at least 10 years.

Arcticsteve - Please explain the basis for "However Krown is superior to Rust Check".  Is there testing or documentation that demonstrates the superiority of Krown?  I'm happy with Rust Check at Wolfdale & Dundas in Mississauga, however, I'd switch with good reason.

I have been thinking about going every other year.  Seems that many people here would endorse this schedule. 

Arcticsteve - Please explain the basis for "However Krown is superior to Rust Check".  Is there testing or documentation that demonstrates the superiority of Krown?

Rust Check, under different Ontario limited companies, declared bankruptcy numerous times to avoid creditors and avoid warranty claims.  What does that tell you.  All I can say is all the original Rust Check dealers are now Krown dealers.  The APA endorses Krown, that Canadian TV show on Speedvision, Dream Car Garage, endorsed Krown.

There is a member here named HCRV I believe and he is a labratory guy and has tested Krown and loves it.  Krown has 2 sprays: one for body panels and one thicker for underside.  Apparently, according to Hcrv one can buy Krown by the gallon.  I have yet to check that out.  One can also buy it by the can.


I have been thinking about going every other year.  Seems that many people here would endorse this schedule. 

You can always buy a couple of cans and spray inside the doors and trunk lid and in the rear trunk wheel wells.  You can also spray the brake and fuel lines on the off years.

Note; all Krown shops are not alike. 

[articsteve]

Do new cars even need this?

The last Toyota I bought had a 12 year rust/corrosion warranty, so if it gets even slightly corroded, take it back...

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

I can understand using this stuff on older vehicles but new?

The early the vehicle gets treated the better the results later on.

Still don't understand this I'm afraid, we use a lot of salt too, but if the car is well made, well maintained, washed regularly and any paint chips touched up, then what's the problem?  Especially with a warranty (from what I remember my Toyota one did not require perforation).
 

BOB, in central Ontario at least, if one takes their car out on the highway or county road it comes home white.     It's not only the metal that begins to fail, its hell on the parts.  The manufacturer warranties here are for HOLES.  But before holes develop the car will look like hell for years and have no resale.  We have salt for 5 to 6 months.  They use it now to clear snow as well as plow it.  It's horrible.  City of Toronto and other southern parts of Ontario don't get that much snow, but up here in the hinterland it snows and melts and snows and melts non stop for a 5 months.  Most manufacturer warranties are for 7 years here.

[gosteelerz]

I bought my 92' Civic when it was 6 years old and noticed early stages of rust about a month later.  I have had it Krowned 4 times in 7 years and there is still very little rust on the car.  Most Civic's around here of similar vintage have more holes than swiss cheese or are full of bondo.  The stuff definately works.  

I agree with Articsteve, if my car was Krowned from new there would not be a spec of rust on it.  I did not get it done this year because my wife complains when it runs down the bumpers all summer.

[articsteve]

I bought my 92' Civic when it was 6 years old and noticed early stages of rust about a month later.  I have had it Krowned 4 times in 7 years and there is still very little rust on the car.  Most Civic's around here of similar vintage have more holes than swiss cheese or are full of bondo.  The stuff definately works.  

I agree with Articsteve, if my car was Krowned from new there would not be a spec of rust on it.  I did not get it done this year because my wife complains when it runs down the bumpers all summer.

when it runs down the bumpers all summer

No pain no gain. 

[gosteelerz]

I think Krown changed the formula 2 years ago, a little thicker so it takes longer to run and requires a higher ambient temperature.

[articsteve]

I think Krown changed the formula 2 years ago, a little thicker so it takes longer to run and requires a higher ambient temperature.

I believe they still offer two; one thicker than the other which is T-40 and the thinner one called T-32

go here and click products to read tech PDFs

www.krown.com

I shoud add that individual Krown dealers may choose to only offer the T-40 product which when sprayed out is thin in its own right.

[gosteelerz]

Thanks for the insight.  It appears that the T40 is the default and is a dark oil in colour.  That is what runs down the bumpers in the summer.  I see the stuff freezes at minus 20.