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Author Topic: KROWN rust proofing: good and bad experience  (Read 116304 times)
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KBA
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« Reply #160 on: October 22, 2009, 12:05:52 pm »

I found that if you drive on dusty roads much, as we did, the dust cakes into the Krown layer, which then separates from the metal as a separate layer, allowing moisture and then rust underneath. 

A cousin of my inlaws is manager of a body repair shop.  As a side business, he applies rust protection for friends and family members.  He actually suggests driving down a dusty road soon after application of rust protectant.  Hmmm...

Sounds logical, allow the dirt to build to get stuck to the oil and create a layer.
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« Reply #161 on: October 22, 2009, 12:19:55 pm »

Hi guys!

as far as the Krown being affected by rain...it is not...however that being said our cars do sit with painted side up!...exposing very little of the underside to rain...not too many chemicals will last when exposed to outside weather without shelter.

So what you're saying is, don't drive when the roads are wet and the bottom of our cars will be fine?
So no driving when it's raining and especially more so when there's snow and then eventually slush?


I ran over a puddle once and it instantly stripped every ounce of Krown and from the underside of the car....

Seriously, it's not a permenant coating, so it will wear/wash off eventually.  That's why you re-do it each year.   Car wax doesn't last forever either, neither does armor-all, sun-screen, aftershave, or deodorant.

Power washing can strip paint, so it will certainly remove Krown...   If you sandblast your underside with water once a week, sure it will remove the stuff quicker.  In my experience, rust does not start in the wide-open areas, but in the nooks and crannies that catch dirt and moisture.   Filling those nooks and crannies with Krown should reduce/eliminate the amount of dirt and water that gets in there.  

No need to be a smartass about it, Orbis made it seem as though it was almost impossible for rain (aka - water) to get at their spray -> "exposing very little of the underside to rain"
When really, it's exposed to water either through snow (when it melts) or water on the ground after it rains.



Consider  lubricant for you bike's chain.   It won't last forever, but it will last a very long time if the bike is sitting inside the garage.  If you ride it every day, through rain and snow sure it will degrade.  Eventhough water and oil don't mix, forceful splashes of water can "mechanically" wash the oil away. Not to mention that UV and evaporation may take it's toll.

So I'll leave it up to your judgment whether people should ride their bikes outside.
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« Reply #162 on: October 22, 2009, 12:38:15 pm »

I found that if you drive on dusty roads much, as we did, the dust cakes into the Krown layer, which then separates from the metal as a separate layer, allowing moisture and then rust underneath. 

A cousin of my inlaws is manager of a body repair shop.  As a side business, he applies rust protection for friends and family members.  He actually suggests driving down a dusty road soon after application of rust protectant.  Hmmm...

Sounds logical, allow the dirt to build to get stuck to the oil and create a layer.

It makes sense to me, even though I think it would be better for the "oil" to be stuck to the metal than used up bonding dust particles to each other.  But what I didn't expect was that over more time, this oil/dust layer would become firm enough to separate from the metal surface and thus form cavities that retained moisture.  I believe this is how the gas lines rusted out on the Pathfinder despite having the treatments.  And replacing the gas lines was rather costly and difficult for the dealership.  The solution probably is to have the bottom power washed or steam cleaned before reapplication, and have it done every year.
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« Reply #163 on: October 22, 2009, 02:07:05 pm »

 And replacing the gas lines was rather costly and difficult for the dealership.  The solution probably is to have the bottom power washed or steam cleaned before reapplication, and have it done every year.
 
That may help, but gas and brake line longevity are a function of the material used and how they are affixed to the underside. I recently sold two one owner cars in the same week.

98 Ford Contour, 1 owner, 62K km, Krowned every year from new other than last year.  Brake/gas lines in terrible condition, tight together and not well isolated from the floor pans.  Everything fused together by rust.  Gonna be a real mess$$$ replacing those.  Matter of fact the entire underneath was very rough. Cost me an extra $25. for the safety.  Smiley

92 BMW 318, 1 owner, 234k km, brake/gas lines from a visual perspective in much nicer condition because they were better isolated from the floor pan and I'm sure better lines.

So the short of it is that rust issues to a large degree are dependent on the brand, but for body panels Krown is well worth it on any vehicle. 
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« Reply #164 on: October 22, 2009, 03:15:09 pm »

I found that if you drive on dusty roads much, as we did, the dust cakes into the Krown layer, which then separates from the metal as a separate layer, allowing moisture and then rust underneath. 

A cousin of my inlaws is manager of a body repair shop.  As a side business, he applies rust protection for friends and family members.  He actually suggests driving down a dusty road soon after application of rust protectant.  Hmmm...

Sounds logical, allow the dirt to build to get stuck to the oil and create a layer.

It makes sense to me, even though I think it would be better for the "oil" to be stuck to the metal than used up bonding dust particles to each other.  But what I didn't expect was that over more time, this oil/dust layer would become firm enough to separate from the metal surface and thus form cavities that retained moisture.  I believe this is how the gas lines rusted out on the Pathfinder despite having the treatments.  And replacing the gas lines was rather costly and difficult for the dealership.  The solution probably is to have the bottom power washed or steam cleaned before reapplication, and have it done every year.

Where can you get your car steam cleaned in the Toronto area?
My brother is reading over my shoulder and wants to know for his car since it's pretty nasty. lol
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« Reply #165 on: October 22, 2009, 03:38:34 pm »

Got the "El Cheapo" Astra Krowned today with T-40. This is what they left on my rearview mirror (see picture) with information directly relating to washing.


* Krown.JPG (25.86 KB, 195x480 - viewed 953 times.)
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« Reply #166 on: October 22, 2009, 03:42:07 pm »

......maybe I'll post legible pictures this time....sorry. Bang



* Krown2.jpg (149 KB, 975x1171 - viewed 480 times.)

* Krown3.jpg (135.71 KB, 947x966 - viewed 502 times.)
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« Reply #167 on: October 22, 2009, 03:50:13 pm »

I believe the literature...some of the guys, although they mean well I'm sure, are citing some possibly anecdotal personal or even second-hand evidence. Not everyone who works for a company....or is an authorized application person, is a technical expert in the product. I've have many occasion where people selling my product have been right out to lunch.

The Queen from Alice in Wonderland is quoted as saying that "sometimes I've believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast" and it is my experience that exists in spades in the real world and self-anointed experts.
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« Reply #168 on: October 22, 2009, 04:22:22 pm »



The Queen from Alice in Wonderland is quoted as saying that "sometimes I've believed as many as six impossible things before breakfast" and it is my experience that exists in spades in the real world and self-anointed experts.

And see said that before there was an INTERNET Shocked
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« Reply #169 on: October 22, 2009, 06:30:19 pm »

Quote
As far as a change to the formula, there was a big sign a meter high at the Krown dealer I went to last year that was advertising a change. If not last year then when was the formula changed?
Railton/quote]

The only thing I can think of, is they went all the way with the T-40...they did try a pleasent smell to the product last year...? dunno
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« Reply #170 on: October 23, 2009, 02:18:34 pm »

I found that if you drive on dusty roads much, as we did, the dust cakes into the Krown layer, which then separates from the metal as a separate layer, allowing moisture and then rust underneath. 

A cousin of my inlaws is manager of a body repair shop.  As a side business, he applies rust protection for friends and family members.  He actually suggests driving down a dusty road soon after application of rust protectant.  Hmmm...


  CREATION'ist.................great  now we are really gonna get the WING!!! NUTS....
Sounds logical, allow the dirt to build to get stuck to the oil and create a layer.

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« Reply #171 on: October 24, 2009, 10:53:28 am »

So it you're car is coated top to bottom with salt..and you wash it off, you're accelerating the process?

When it is sub zero and everything is frozen not much happens when your car is coated with salt. A warm wash just countered that.

I don't park my car in a heated garage and I don't wash it during the winter...for good reasons. I like it to remain rust-free as much as possible. So far, ten years later, it is.
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« Reply #172 on: November 23, 2009, 06:09:07 pm »

I had my car rustproofed by Krown for the first time in Richmond Hill a few weeks ago. I had to wait about an hour. There must have been 7 cars in line ahead of mine. I was surprised at how busy and efficient they were. It was tough to see them drilling holes in my car, but I'm over it now. One guy had some missing plastic covers where they drilled the holes. He got that problem solved and I made sure to check my car incase they forgot to plug up the holes.  I didn't expect that there would be so much of the Krown material leaking on the ground. Fotunately, I had put cardboard and some plastic sheets on the garage floor to collect the oil. However, some oil did spill onto the garage floor and driveway and there are some stains remaining.

I'd just like to thank the members here because my decision to go to Krown was a result from reading the positive reviews from this forum.
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« Reply #173 on: November 26, 2009, 07:01:50 pm »

I just bought a Hyundai Elantra '09 and am interested in rustproofing it. Since I read that Krown is good on this forum, I am wondering which package did you choose if you had used them and how much did you pay? Thanks for the feedback.
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« Reply #174 on: November 27, 2009, 01:27:02 pm »

I had my car rustproofed by Krown for the first time in Richmond Hill a few weeks ago. I had to wait about an hour. There must have been 7 cars in line ahead of mine. I was surprised at how busy and efficient they were. It was tough to see them drilling holes in my car, but I'm over it now. One guy had some missing plastic covers where they drilled the holes. He got that problem solved and I made sure to check my car incase they forgot to plug up the holes.  I didn't expect that there would be so much of the Krown material leaking on the ground. Fotunately, I had put cardboard and some plastic sheets on the garage floor to collect the oil. However, some oil did spill onto the garage floor and driveway and there are some stains remaining.

I'd just like to thank the members here because my decision to go to Krown was a result from reading the positive reviews from this forum.
If your worried about the excess Krown dripping you could have your auto treated with "Corrosion Free" rustproofing. It goes on like Krown, however, it doesn't drip.  It has a better warranty then Krown and there is 3 packages you can have done. Starting at $49 to $129 for a complete job, and the nice thing is it lasts 18 months between treatments, so effectively cost less then $79 a year.

Nm
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« Reply #175 on: November 27, 2009, 06:22:48 pm »

Krown works so good sometimes that the body outlasts the usefulness of the vehicle.   My dad's '98 F150 does not have a speck of rust on it but has 320,000 on it and needs a few small things fixed that exceeds it's value.

Krown will be gone from an asphalt driveway by the time spring rolls in, concrete or interlocking may be a different matter
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« Reply #176 on: December 16, 2009, 07:14:19 am »

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gZWdaOV731I

The guys that run our servers and manage our POS software...I think they may have too much time on their hands!!

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« Reply #177 on: March 31, 2010, 02:16:15 pm »

Just got my new Civic rustproofed at different Krown location than I had been used to going to in the past.  I think that a good job was done but, NOT a great job.

This is the third vehicle that I had rustproofed by Krown. The first two were a Jeep Cherokee and the second was a Nissan Altima. Back then the job was done at the Krown on the Queensway/Kipling area in Toronto. That location (Queensway) did a fantastic job. I recommend them strongly. Here is what happened to me and my observations of tonight.

The Queensway location always drilled holes with a drill bit (short stubby) that took a couple of seconds to get through the steel of the car. The place I went to tonight used a different bit (longer) which took a whole lot longer to drill through and which was a little bit more difficult to get out after the hole was drilled.

Also, I was told that there were no manufacturer access holes . So , they had to drill all the holes. However, one of the guys noticed a plug on the underside of the rocker panel on both the driver and passenger side of the car. He pulled them out and then sprayed in there. This was discovered during the underside spraying of the car. As a result, I am guessing that the holes drilled into the bottom of both the front and rear door frames PROBABLY DID NOT HAVE TO BE DRILLED.

One guy did the spraying of the car at Queensway. And oh yes, the owner or his son was always there. At this place tonight, two guys sprayed. Sometimes they were not sure who did what. So it seemed. At Queensway, once the guy started spraying with those long tubes, he almost never stopped. My car looked like it was in a sauna..but instead of water , it was that special chemical oil they use at Krown. Misting all over and out from the cars doors/underside.  Now that impressed me 'cause I new that every crack was being penetrated.  Tonight however, at this new location I went to, the two guys walked around under the vehicle randomly , "spritzing" the bottom of the car. Sometimes with a hand held short nozzle and sometimes with a longer tube but, all the while criss-crossing each other and spritzing the bottom of the car as if they were trying to save on the oil stuff. At the Queensway location the guy kept spraying and spraying thoroughing, almost continuously and he was the only guy doing it. AT Queensway, when they inserted those metal rods into the metal holes and sprayed, you could really see the oil misting out from the other side..indicating that you are getting somer really good spreading and penetration of the stuff. At Queenswasy the guy inserted the metal rod, and SPRAYED IN AND OUT AND IN AND OUT. Oil even spilled a bit as the rod was pulled out. I didn't seem to see as much of that at this place I went to. I didnt really see much of that oil spilling out as before.

Becaue there was one guy spraying, his method was very organized in his approach and never crissed crossed all over the  place. He just went right around the car spraying.  The place I just went to seemed to be a bit random.

I also checked my trunk lid after I got home. I rubbed my hands along the underside of the lid and found no oil residue on my fingers at all. That was on the left side but, on the right side, there was oil there. Most of the underside of the trunk lid actually had no oil, especially underneath and in between those metal supports that seem to stick out and hold the lights and wires and such in place.

The Queensway location sprayed every door handle and window trim on the  outside. That means between the trim and the body of the car. VERY very thorough job. The place I went to tonight did not at all.

AT Queensway, they washed my car afterwards. This place told me not to wash for a couple of days. Mind you , I did go to Queensway during the summer months and not in the winter like now.

I generally recommend the Queenswasy Krown location and I wish I went there. 




A lot of people talk about touching up with a can of Rust Check from C-Tire. You can get Krown in a can from Home Hardware and for the same price at your local Krown rustproof location. I use it for car, snowblower, lawnmower, etc. The Krown in a can is more of a fog spray than the red Rust Check stuff. It doesn't drip as much, but spreads and stays without using as much.

I know Rust Check has a "Coat and Protect" product which I have used and thought it would adhere better to the undeside of my car. I does work well, but the regular Krown does too, without the sticky goo. I power wash the underside of my CRV a year after getting it Krown'd and it still beads the water.
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« Reply #178 on: March 31, 2010, 02:25:55 pm »

Did it on my Cherokee and I think it was worth it.  These vehicles are known to be rust prone and I don’t have a spot of rust on the underside, panels or hood.  I am just developing some rust in the drip troughs above the doors but this is where water sits.  Never replaced any brake lines, etc. which are prone to rust.


It was hard to watch them drill holes the first time, however.  I go to Krown in Newmarket, Ontario - they don't skimp on the juice!!!
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« Reply #179 on: March 31, 2010, 05:50:18 pm »

.... Roll Eyes Buyin' cheap CROWNS is ONLY fer minor ROYALTY...i spend tha bucks fer REEL JEWELS and Dancin Queens........ Cheesy


* Krown.jpg (66.53 KB, 640x456 - viewed 36 times.)
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