Topic: Just bought a 1992 Jeep Cherokee "Laredo"

[Fouram]

I think that I have been "taken", as every once in awhile, while idling, waiting for a light to change, or, for instance waiting for traffic, it "almost" stalls, then recovers! Have yet to have it actually stall, though. Secondly, there is an oil leak "somewhere" in the front, and I feel it is far enough back to be around the transfer case. The colour/consistency is asimilar to motor oil, but then when I pull the "dipstick" for the automatic transmission, it looks/smells same as motor oil. I have as yet had time to bring it into a "Jeep" garage, and to tell the truth I am a little "leery" of doing so, I don't want to be screwed by high price Chrysler/Jeep techs! There is also the issue of the trip odometer--seems to be stuck (all numbers) halfway through the numbers--I mean you can tell it is 800 and some klicks but the line bisects the 8 and the rest--any ideas? One more thing---the "CRAPPY" mileage!! Anyone give me some idea as to what I "should" be getting---any and ALL help will be most appreciated---By the way, I called for a relacement price from the Jeep Dealer for the drivers side seat rail, including motors---their price was $1600.00--yah that is right--so that is contributing to the idea of getting screwed by the Jeep tech's--regards--Fouram

[exserviceguy]

Hi Fouram,
Would be happy to supply some info to your problems, but as I work as a service manager for a Jeep dealer, and used to work as a tech for Jeep, and even spent some time working at the former Canadian head office, you might find my advice a little 'expensive'.  As much as I like Jeep, even I would expect much from a 15 year old unit, you're lucky it runs.

[exserviceguy]

Sorry for the typo, it should have read,'wouldn't expect much'.

[Fouram]

I guess that I should have mentioned that I bought the Jeep as a "private" deal, I also must admit that I was in a real bind as my (now defunct) 1980 Parisienne had really bit the bullet. Having said all of that, what I was really looking for was advice on what I, personally, could do to try to ascertain what, if anything was REALLY wrong, and at that point hand over the vehicle to someone fully qualified to fix "that specific problem" and nothing else. I have certainly been faced, in the past, with bringing in a vehicle for service, and having way more done that I felt was either necessary, or indeed agreed upon. I apologize if I have "ruffled any feathers", that was certainly not my intent, I have appealed for help from anyone that may help, as I know when I am in over my head, -as relates to the seat rails, I was able to take out the drivers seat, find and fix 2 broken welds/joints, however the "gears" seem to be either stripped or teeth missing on the drivers side as it does a "thump,thump,thump" noise when I try to do anything with the drivers seat, other than back and forward. I have contacted a parts guy who will find a rail for me for $400.00. If I am out of line here--I stand corrected--sorry--Al

[Wetson]

Hi Fouram,
Would be happy to supply some info to your problems, but as I work as a service manager for a Jeep dealer, and used to work as a tech for Jeep, and even spent some time working at the former Canadian head office, you might find my advice a little 'expensive'.  As much as I like Jeep, even I would expect much from a 15 year old unit, you're lucky it runs.

 

Did you even bother to have the vehicle inspected by an independent mechanic?  How much did you pay for the thing?

[Fouram]

I expect that I have paid too much for "the thing", and I saw a very recent air-care report that we in BC must have in order to get insurance to put it on the road. Granted, an air care pass does NOT guarantee the mechanical road-worthiness of the vehicle, but it does ensure that an acceptable emissions level of the car has been maintained. The car was bought from the second owner, and has 152,000 original km's on it. I assume from the general tenor of the replies that I am getting here, that as a "newbie" I have to run the gauntlet of "bashing"? before anyone is constructive?, if such is the case, then I suppose that I will quit posting and go ahead and perhaps get screwed by trial and error--thanks!!!

[sterling]

It sounds like what you are hoping to hear is, "go see ABC Auto Repair because they are experts in Jeeps and charge half what a Jeep dealer does." That response isn't likely.

Here is what I suggest. Talk to some people wherever you live and try to get some ideas of what Jeep dealers are reputable. Go to one and explain your problems very clearly. Also be very clear about what you want done and don't want done. If you feel the need, scrawl it onto the work order yourself. If you just want an estimate, ask how much they will charge to do that. They're not going to spend time itemizing your car's problems for free so don't expect them to work for free. When you have the list of problems you can then decide to have them fix all or some or none.

If you can't bring yourself to go to the Jeep dealer then find an independant with a good reputation and do the above there. (Don't expect them to work for free either.)

If the problems seem insurmountable, put it in the paper and hope someone comes along and buys it from you.

[Fouram]

Okay, thanks for the reply. I guess here is what I was hoping to hear: The 1992 Jeep is a (good/bad) vehicle by and large, you have a fairly good vehicle(crappy vehicle) however here is what is endemically--normally wrong--right with them, I was also hoping to hear from a Jeep expert (perhaps) who could give me a rundown on (perhaps) what I should be looking for. I know the vehicle is very clean, has had no (noticeable) damage --nothing suspect there. I also have a problem with the (almost) stalling and wonder if that particular--from the experts--situation is easily recognizable. I am NOT looking for free work--I will pay, it is just that I have ever OWNED only one vehicle--all the rest of the cars I have ever driven have been company cars. I understand that I am operating at a disadvantage, and so came here looking for some--perhaps--guidance--direction. I do not want to buy a new car--I am almost 60 and I use a vehicle very seldom--preferring to walk or bike when I have the chance--again--any help that I can get--even general help is most appreciated--to re-iterate--thanks for your reply--Al.

[articsteve]

The idle problem is 99% the Idle Control Motor located at the throttle body.  They die on all Jeeps with the 4.0 L.  They are about $150.

As for the oil leak you need to get it up off the ground to have a good look.

Just ask around and find a reputable mechanic.  Every general mechanic alive has worked on the 4.0   Stay clear of the dealer.

The Laredo in that year is a good vehicle.  Parts are cheap.  The worst problem with those Jeeps are rust and since yours is rust free then that is good.  The ABS is bad so don't bother fixing.

Find used parts yourself @ http://car-part.com/

Pick Canada.  Here is one

1992
Front Seat Track Only
Jeep Cherokee WITH MOTORS   MIDAS $Call Brentwood Salvage Can-BC(Saanichton) Request_Quote 1-250-652-1181 Request_Insurance_Quote

[Fouram]

An awesome reply, JUST what I was looking for -- thanks to you arcticsteve--sorry to all it took me so long to fully describe exactly what I was looking for! Gives me renewed hope! Thanks once again for the reply, just one more thing, and I hope I am not pushing it--anyone have any idea what kind of mileage I should expect on this particular vehicle, and if there is a way to "bump" it up a bit?--Thanks again--Awesome!!!

[articsteve]

I think just poking around town and what not you will get about 15 mpg.  Check air filter, if it is oily replace.  There is a easy way to avoid that by rerouting a hose or adding a hose.

Driving in 2 wheel drive will increase mileage.  Warning, if wet and your driving at highway speed drive in AWD which is the "green" selection.  That vehicle is extremely unstable at highway speeds in the wet or snow in 2 wheel drive.

You should have your tranny filter replaced, have your transfercase drained and refilled, and check both rear ends for level and dilution.  Grease the U joints; at least 6.

[Fouram]

Thanks again for the very meticulous/specific reply--just what I need--if okay, I have printed out your reply for easy reference--will do as suggested--also the sound advice about instability--re: 4wheel drive--as you know it rains here incessantly till about April--so will do as suggested--again--THANKS--Al

[articsteve]

Al, the Jeep Cherokee platform is one of the greatest off road vehicles of all time due to it's specific wheel base.  However, due to this fact and that the ass end is very lite, it will break free easily on slippery surfaces.  That is not unusual about rear wheel drive vehicles.  The unusual part is that the ass end is extremely difficult to bring back into line after in breaks away at speed.  To avoid this one must drive in AWD "green" selection, but not FULL TIME or  "orange/yellow" selection.  I assume you have that kind of transfercase.  Usually found in Laredos.

[mrthompson]

Artic, AWD mode is stated as "Full-time" on the shift lever.  It goes as follows for SelecTrac: 2WD, Part-Time, Full-Time, Neutral and Low Range.  Use "Full-time" on wet roads, etc.  Never use Part-time on pavement, even when wet.   

[articsteve]

Al, I will also mention that if your Jeep runs really rough or will not start after it has run (hot) and only starts cold or then eventually not at all, it is a simple device (magnetic/electrical) on the bell housing and fails eventually on all 4.0 litres of that vintage.  No big deal.  Google and find a Jeep BBS in the USA.  Total info there.  

[articsteve]

Artic, AWD mode is stated as "Full-time" on the shift lever.  It goes as follows for SelecTrac: 2WD, Part-Time, Full-Time, Neutral and Low Range.  Use "Full-time" on wet roads, etc.  Never use Part-time on pavement, even when wet.   

Right.  Got mixed up.  AWD is Full Time.   Geen icon is Full Time (AWD) and orange is Part Time (off road) providing the  light indicators works.

Al, I would also NOT recommend shifting on the fly on an old Jeep.  If you use Part Time, which would be rare in your case I'm assuming, and you want to switch back to 2WD, do the lever switch at a stand still and then back up 30 feet.

[Fouram]

Thanks to both of you, yes I have the shift type that specifies 4wd--so I will use that--also I WAS concerned about shifting on the fly--perhaps just a basic cautionary bone in my old head, but so far when I have shifted it has been at a standstill--however, thank you about the "heads-up" for the 30 foot backup! I have so far not really noticed a hard-start-hot issue, however--again I am taking notes and looking to see if there are any other issues, so far--I think my biggest whine is the seats-(electrical/motors/switches issue) as well as the "trip odometer" that does not/has not shown whole numbers since I originally got into it, and am still wondering if this is something that can/may be attributed to "tampering"?--I have spoken with another person with a "Jeep Cherokee" (generic--no known year) and the two common descriptors--of theirs is "gutless and hard on fuel"--I have not noticed gutless--however I must confess--not heavy footed!

[barrie1]

Fouram this older model of Jeep is a good unit but some of the points reagrding this vehicle you have to learn. The dash milage indicator is a small mechicle device that gets dirt and dust into it over the years. This is an item that you can self remove to clean up and relube to keep going. Its not that hard to service with a few light tools ans some proper lube. Your engines leaks could well be coming from the top cover on this engine. It would also be common with this age of vehicle. Take it to a good small shop mechanic who has knowledge of this model of vehicle and allow him to advise you. It will be cheaper then you think.