Topic: Block Heater Installation

[weebl]

I would like to attempt my own block heater installation (freeze plug type) on my 2002 Mazda Protege, as it sounds like it would be an easy enough procedure.

Anyone have advice on what I should expect to encounter, or if this is something I should leave to a mechanic?

Thanks!

[articsteve]

You gotta use a sealant or clear silicone so the temp needs to be fairly warm so the stuff can set.  So if your doing this in an below freezing setting then you will have leaks.  I suppose you can hope the supplied gasket seats properly without the use of a sealant.

Can you get good position on it?  How do plan on getting the plug out?

[jamie1]

I have installed 100s of block heaters and have NEVER used silicone.

[barrie1]

If this block heater is going into the side of the block then it seals on its own with a small tamping type of Hammer in my mind.  I don't follow where the need of any Silicone would be required.  Just can't understand with all the pressure from the heating system how it would keep a Frost plug in with Silicone. 

[articsteve]

If this block heater is going into the side of the block then it seals on its own with a small tamping type of Hammer in my mind.  I don't follow where the need of any Silicone would be required.  Just can't understand with all the pressure from the heating system how it would keep a Frost plug in with Silicone. 

Barrie I think your thinking 60s stuff.    The block heater that will be going into this Mazda you do not tap into place like a frost plug. (see pics)  The silcone doesn't hold the block heater in barrie as you know, it just assures that it doesn't leak because not all block heaters are going to fit a used motor perfectly.  Don't compare the fit of an aftermarket block heater to that of a factory frost plug installed when the motor was assembled.  I use silcone when installing water pumps.  I'm not doing the job over again because of a fault in the casing created when the original fitting was removed.

As you can see in the pic the block heater comes with a rubber o ring.  Silicone just adds another layer of leak protection to that.  There is no guarantee that the o ring will be an exact fit.

In the alternative I agree with these guys:  This is a passage from Car Talk (a US syndicated radio car tech show  heard across the country).

Ray: The freeze plug replacement heaters work pretty well, and in fact, that's what Ford gives you if you buy one from them. The heating element actually replaces a freeze plug in the engine block and heats the coolant from down there. My biggest concern about freeze plug heaters is that they can leak after installation (we've even seen a few blow out under extreme pressure). And if you don't get under the car and check it regularly, you might not know it was leaking for many moons.

Tom: So for that reason, we're partial to coolant heaters that get installed in one of the two radiator hoses. They're easy for your mechanic to install, the installation almost never fails, and they do a good job.

Ray: You need one that fits the diameter of your particular coolant hose. The heater itself costs about 40 bucks, and you should be able to get one at any good auto parts store. Stay warm, Sidney.

On top of that the poster will need to decide which frost plug to knock out.  What if it is the wrong one   Why bother with all that?

[barrie1]

Steve its been a while since I installed one of these but I never had to use silicone on any of the ones I have done. Maybe they are cheaper made now I don't know for sure. If anything the engine blocks of to-day should have even better tolerances then in the past to seal things up. So be it if Silicone is needed now to install these properly. 

[exserviceguy]

Hi Gang, Have to jump in here and add my two cents worth.  In all the various shops I've worked in, I don't ever remember seeing a tech use silicone or any other type of sealer on a block heater, and I certainly never used any.  Yes I agree that as engines age they wear, but a frost plug hole? I doubt it.  All block heater contain instructions which indicate which frost plug to pop out, (usually the hardest part of the job).  I have seen block heaters fail but no worse than in line rad hose heaters.  I remember putting a block heater in a friends Pontiact Sunbird and when the frost plug refused to pop out, I tried the old self tapping screw trick.  It got the heater out but also puctured the cylinder wall and piston, which a good machine shop was able to resleeve.  Some may argue the difference in the metal of a block heater and the cylinder block causes the failures due to different metal expansion and contraction rates but of course the original plug is made of different metal too.

[articsteve]

Steve its been a while since I installed one of these but I never had to use silicone on any of the ones I have done. Maybe they are cheaper made now I don't know for sure. If anything the engine blocks of to-day should have even better tolerances then in the past to seal things up. So be it if Silicone is needed now to install these properly. 

Barrie the thread is about Weebl installing a blocker heater for the first time.  You are not going to see any manuals or whatever indicate the use of silcone.  But to avoid first time failure I'm advising silicone.  Requires overnight drying in above freezing temps though.  Will the O-ring be 100% effective in his case?  Why take the chance when clear silicone guarantees no leak.  I silcone every thermostat as well.  Just a little smear either side of the gasket is all it takes.  Removing the plug may be more of a challenge for him that installing.  It's possible that he may damage the block fitting when he is attempting to dislodge the frost plug for the first time if he trys to dig it out.    I know mechanics who use silicone because they don't want call backs.  Thats where I learned it from.

Having said all that if I were him I'd using a hose heater.  10 times less potential for an installation problem and 1/10 the effort of installation.

Just a view point.  He can do what he pleases obviously as everyone else.

[barrie1]

Steve good description as I now understand what you are saying and the reason why.  I personally have never seen the problem when the heater is installed in the block properly but understand what you are saying. It kinda of gives extra insurance just in case there is going to be a leak problem. I will keep it in mind for any futher work I am involved with in that nature. 

[weebl]

Artic, I haven't looked at the frost plugs yet, nor have I come up with how I might approach getting it out.

After hearing some comments on block heaters, I may be leaning towards going the hose heater route.  In fact, on our Golf TDI, I already have one for it, just waiting to have a weekend that isn't crazy so I can do the job.  I'll probably do the same on the Mazda.

[articsteve]

They sell them at TSC stores (Tractor Supply Corporation).  I would think they are in your region.  They are generic and they come in sizes of 1/4 increments.  Everything is refered to as "inside dimension"  as opposed to the outside diameter of the hose.  All you need is a 30 degree rise somewhere on the hose.  Usually you take the hose off and then cut and install or to be safe buy another hose and keep old one as spare.

[barrie1]

If you do go with the Block heater which fits into the block I usually drill a hole in the Frost Plug and then pop it out with a pointed tool such as a thick awl or pointed chisel. One of these generally does the trick in removing the old frost plug. They are just pressed in there and will come fairly easy. The type that go in the hose will be done as Steve advises. 

[Danomite]

......all this block heater talk reminded me of the 'flaming escort' .........a good friend of mine was leaving his house one morning, and could not help but notice his neighbors car (early 90's escort wagon) burning under the car port. We found out a day or two later that the cause of the fire was traced back to the block heater, the insurance company investigation indicated that it must have a short or something (can't remember exactly).

It was strange too, it wasn't a raging inferno, more of a nice slow burn - devouring everything that was not metal under the hood. The car was a quick write off, and there was almost no damage to the car port or house. The driveway did have some interesting fluid and melted plastic mess as well.

D.

[arnold.breis]

I have installed 100s of block heaters and have NEVER used silicone.

So Jamie could you please help me. because i want to install it by my own. and what should i avoid during the process so as not to damage my engine. thanks body and have a good day.

[jamie1]

I have installed 100s of block heaters and have NEVER used silicone.

So Jamie could you please help me. because i want to install it by my own. and what should i avoid during the process so as not to damage my engine. thanks body and have a good day.

Talk about waking up an old thread. Most block heaters install the same. What kind of car are you working on?

[No H2O]

Could you please help me. because i want to install it by my own. and what should i avoid during the process so as not to damage my engine. thanks body and have a good day.

I've only come across three different block heaters in my life:

• the press-in type with O-ring seal as pictured in one of the threads above
• the screw-in type with aluminium sealing ring as found on my 1999 Honda CR-V
• and the type found on the 2007 Toyota Yaris that simply warms the block from the outer surface of the engine (does not protrude into the engine coolant)

If your block heater is of the press-in type with an O-ring, then a thin smear of silicone grease on the O-ring prevents any chance of it being cut or binding/twisting during installation. Silicone grease should also be applied to the O-ring under the cupped screw head (if it is of that design) for the same reason.

You have to have clear access to the frost plug. If it is a cup shaped design, you use a long flat-bladed screwdriver and hammer to remove it by striking it on the inside edge of the cup, not the edge of the lip as you do not want to damage the sealing surface on the engine block. If you're lucky, you can get the frost plug to pivot 90° on its axis and then use long-nose vise grips to easily pull it out. If it gets driven into the block, you can fish it out using your fingers by orienting it horizontally in the hole and then using vise grips. I've seen many mechanics just drive the frost plug in and leave it there - which is why I prefer to do the installation myself.

There is more you have to know, like how and when to drain the engine coolant, what mix to use and how to remove trapped air or bleed the system on certain models.

[jason_rock]

If anyone is looking for a way to test a block heater after installation, i purchased a block heater tester from ebay and works great.  it tells you that the socket has power and the power is actually flowing thru the block heater elements.  just go to ebay and search for "block heater tester" and you will find a few companies selling them for less than retail.

Jason

[weebl]

Wow, talk about old thread revival!  I haven't owned that car in a long time.

And there is also "plug alive" at Canadian Tire.

[mrthompson]

If anyone is looking for a way to test a block heater after installation, i purchased a block heater tester from ebay and works great.  it tells you that the socket has power and the power is actually flowing thru the block heater elements.  just go to ebay and search for "block heater tester" and you will find a few companies selling them for less than retail.

Jason