Author Topic: First car service due...  (Read 2871 times)

Offline mikron15

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« on: July 25, 2005, 08:00:32 pm »
Hi there,
I have a few questions about my car serivicing & maintenance. I recently bought a used Lancer 04 ES (A/T) in June 05 with 21,500 clicks on it. I got 25,100 clicks on it now and I am close to getting an oil change done.  Here's what i need to know:

Q1) I am interested in using 100% synthetic oil for my first oil change. Heard lots of  benefits to it. Any recommendation what brand & type I should use? The owners manual states to use SAE- 10W-30 for warmer temp and SAE- 5W-30 for colder temp. Since we are close to August, should i stick with the summer type or not? Also it doesnt mention anything about synthetic; it only says use an API classification SL, SL/CF or ILSAC certfied one. I have no clue what all that means :s
As for the oil filter, i am guessing I should buy from the Mitsubishi mftr right?

Q2) According to the owner's manual, I am due for spark plugs replacement. Any recommendation for a good quality one? One of my friend suggested Bosch and he also said to change the wires that attach to the spark plugs. Is the last part true?. My dad said he never heard such a thing (replacing the wire along with spark plugs) nor he has done so with his previous cars.

Q3) I am also due for change in air filter. Any recommendation for air filters? Upon reading various forums, I heard K&N brand is good. I wonder if I can get them in Canadian tire.

Q4) In regards to synth tranny fluid, When should i get mine flushed/changed? If i am due for a change, which type of synthetic should I get? Owner's manual suggests using DIAMOND ATF SP III transaxle fluid to ensure optimum transaxle performance.

I have recently flushed the brake fluids and checked the width of the brake pads..good to go for another 2-3 months. My dad suggest flushing the engine coolant too..dunno if its necessary.  

What about the power steering fluid? My manual doesn't say when to change it. Is there anything else I left out that needs servicing/replacement?.  

At this point, you can see I am getting very paranoid about my car lol, its only b'coz its my first car and I want to take good care of my baby ( it had a rough initial use , 18,000km in 4 months by previous company/owner D: ).

Thanking in advance for all your input and advices.


Cheers!

Offline tpl

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« Reply #1 on: July 25, 2005, 08:45:47 pm »
Is this car still under warranty?
if so I would definitely get the oil and air filters from the dealer.... I would get dealer oil filter anyway just in case there is a problem later and you need to "prove" that you have used a good filter.
As for synthetic. there are many recommendations. Mobil 1 5w-30 should do you all year round.  Mobil 1 should be API SM although a jug that has been on the shelf for a bit may say "exceeds SL"

Plugs.  What does the manual say?  Could well say NGK for a Mitsu but ask the dealer if in doubt. On a 2004 the plugs should last for 100,000 miles as the US emissions regs require that as should the wires.  


K&N filters can sometimes be bad depending on how your engine measures airflow.

Others are better on AT fluid than me!  But there is a current thread here....

Engine coolant can be done at two years or 3 or 4 but not much longer.  Check the manual for the coolant specification.( somewhere it will say " phosphate free, silicate free.... something else free....") It will definitely say mix 50-50 with water.... anal retentive people with aluminium engines mix with  distilled water.  If you cannot find anything in the manual, ask the dealer parts dept.

power steering: leave it alone. should be good for 5 years at least.

18,000 km in 4 months sounds like highway miles... which is good... does it use any oil ?

(Message edited by tpl on July 25, 2005)
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Offline barrie1

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« Reply #2 on: July 25, 2005, 08:58:34 pm »
Mikron15 Welcome to the Forum, OK heres how it goes, save your money for a long time as the Spark Plugs,wires and antifreeze will last for at least 100,000 Klms at least. Do not use the K&N filter in this car as it is not needed. This is for Race engines only and yours dosen't need this at all. Spend the roughly $10.00 to replace the original from crappy or some one else like them. Do the oil change with the with the Syntehtic oil of your choice brand wise and go forth and enjoy. Your tranny should not need the auto fluid changes yet unless you live in a very Dusty area and the car has seen nothing but dirt under it for its short life and distance. I know the ownership experience of the  1st car can be over welming in order to do the right thing but Most of these items are not near ready to do as yet with only 21,500 Klms on it. Change the oil and the air filter and Drive and Enjoy. Folks use the Distilled water for a reason as its going to last many years longer and do less damage to the rad in the form of Scuzz persay. I am not Anal retentive but know how to save myself a lot less problems over the years. The Distilled water deal works if you try it in about 4 years from now on this car.  

(Message edited by barrie1 on July 25, 2005)

Offline tpl

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« Reply #3 on: July 26, 2005, 06:31:25 am »
I think with only 2-3 months left on the brakes ( I presume that the pads are low and the rotors after only a year or so are ok.)   I would change them  now.
Are you sure about this 2-3 months?  Manufacturers usually specify the minimum thickness of the pads and that can be remarkably thick!   Its all to do with heat transfer through the pad and into the brake fluid.  Again ask the dealer   or buy a workshop manual

I just checked Chilton, Haynes and Bentley and no Lancer manual.

Offline safristi

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« Reply #4 on: July 26, 2005, 09:24:09 am »
Barrie & Tpl gave great advice...leave the plugs,wires & cooling/tranny /brake fluids alone.
   An original Mitsu air filter and decent Synthetic 10/30 with top of the line filter is all ya need. Mobil-1 and Amsoil are available at Crappy Tire and are top notch.
   Make sure ya polish the exhaust weekly !!!!!first new car OCD requirement
THERE IS NO CURE FOR "LOTUS"......ONLY TREATMENT.....

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #5 on: July 26, 2005, 11:35:37 am »
As a suggestion I would approach your dealer to obtain the original Factory service manuel for this car. The money saved by not doing the other fluid changes will more then likely pay for it. This will be the best service book for your car you can probably buy as it is specifically aimed at your vehicle. I agree with TPL on your brakes as you don't want to run them too low as they could then score the rotors and cost more then required to replace. Sometimes it is better to replace them a wee bit early.

Offline mikron15

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« Reply #6 on: July 26, 2005, 06:37:07 pm »
Thanks guys for all ur inputs. Now to reply one by one.

"TPL:Is this car still under warranty?"
-Yes, it has factory balanced warranty..according to the manual , the car came with 3 yrs or 60,000KM warranty, unlike the new 2005 which comes with 5yrs or 100,000km.

"TPL:I would get dealer oil filter anyway just in case there is a problem later.."
-Thats what i did exactly today.

"Mobil 1 5w-30 should do you all year round.."
I checked out the Mobil1 brand (approx $8/L) @ Cdn Tire and also checked out Esso XD 3 0W-30 recomended by arcticsteve( $4.25/L).  Still deciding which one to get :S

"Tpl:Plugs. What does the manual say? Could well say NGK for a Mitsu but ask the dealer if in doubt"
-The manual says NGK too. When i went in today to the dealer, he was offering the mitsu brand of NGK priced @ $4 ea. I went to Cdn Tire , and trying to decide btw these 2 : Bosch platinum or Super-G NGK ( both priced @ $8/pair)

"Tpl: Engine coolant can be done at two years or 3 or 4 but not much longer"
- Alright, i will do it next summer then :-) And, yes it does say 50% concentrated in the manual.

"Tpl: power steering: leave it alone.."
-  Oki doki  

"Tpl: 18,000 km in 4 months sounds like highway miles... which is good... does it use any oil ? "
- Not sure..Previous owner was HERTZ car rental company in Ottawa. Also this is gonna be  my first oil change and the oil level is on the ok side. They claim they flushed some stuff b4 handing the car to me.

Offline articsteve

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« Reply #7 on: July 26, 2005, 08:26:07 pm »
also checked out Esso XD 3 0W-30 recomended by arcticsteve( $4.25/L).

MIK;  just to be clear on this Esso XD; I have not used it yet but if it is 100% synthetic I will as it will probably be from the same base stock as Mobil 1.

My 2 cents is to switch out the brake pads now.  Why bother waiting?  You don't want to heat stress the rotors.  Make sure rear drums are adjusted and lube hardware.

Not many aftermarket parts for the car.  Get the pads from the dealer.  I bought some Talon parts off a Mitsu dealer in Markham and they were good on price and getting the order shipped.

I would stay with the normal tranny fluid.  If the tranny pan has a drain plug I would drain it NOW and every third oil change and add (refresh) that amount which will be about 3 litres.  Replace filter every 50 km if it has one.

Buy plugs from dealer.  Change at 50,000 km.  Get air filter at dealer until warranty expires.  Don't get a K&N.

Change fuel filter NOW.
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Offline barrie1

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« Reply #8 on: July 26, 2005, 08:46:41 pm »
Mikron15 save the money on the spark plugs as you don't need them yet at all. As far as the Brand of Oil goes don't worry about the price or name as many brands under different names will do a great job for you. You don't have to buy the most expensive oils as they are all very good. Just choose the grade you are going to go with and have it changed on a proper maintenance schedule. Your car will be Happy and so will you.

Offline 21Rouge

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« Reply #9 on: July 26, 2005, 08:47:43 pm »
just to be clear on this Esso XD; I have not used it yet but if it is 100% synthetic I will as it will probably be from the same base stock as Mobil 1.

The 0W-30 really is a full PAO 100% synthetic. And from what I have read Mobil and Esso are very independent with respect to their engine oil production...lucky for us Canadians.

Offline mikron15

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« Reply #10 on: July 26, 2005, 09:02:40 pm »
"Barrie:Mikron15 Welcome to the Forum"
- Thanks :D . Trust me , this is the best forum i ever came accross for Auto Tech. I got so much help from here when i needed it :-)  

"Barrie: save your money for a long time as the Spark Plugs,wires and antifreeze will last for at least 100,000 Klms at least"
- Apparently, i HAVE to change my  spark plugs.. the Service guy pointed it out in my manual, it has to be changed at 24,000km. he says if i don't do it soon, it will void my warranty. So i told him, i am doing it next week, along with the oil change. As for antifreeze, i will do the change next year. Altho, when my dad had his corolla, Toyota always asked him to come in for a coolant change every 25,000 *shrugs*

As for the tranny fluid, only reason i brought it up is to change it to a synthetic fluid. Is it beneficial?

Thanks for the input :-)

Offline mikron15

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« Reply #11 on: July 26, 2005, 09:39:05 pm »
"Tpl: I think with only 2-3 months left on the brakes ( I presume that the pads are low and the rotors after only a year or so are ok.) I would change them now"
- Apparently the brakes warranty has expired..upto 20,000km.. I had issues with my brakes ( created another thread for that issue on this forum last month). Long storry short,last month, i flushed the brake fluid, and gave them to do servicing . But i hate how they serviced the rear drum.. He just sanded the shoe and the drum..voila all done :S . As for the front shoe, Mitsu mechanic said 50% of the pads is used and its good to go for another few months. As for the front rotor, they installed a new one when i bought the car.

"Safaristi:  An original Mitsu air filter and decent Synthetic 10/30 with top of the line filter is all ya need. Mobil-1 and Amsoil are available at Crappy Tire and are top notch"
- I am still inclined to get the K&N air filter as i read in another forum, that it helps alot in gaining HP ( which i badly need..horrible pickup ). As for the oil, most likely i *might* stick with Mobil-1 since articsteve replied stating he hasn't used it yet.  

"Safristi:  Make sure ya polish the exhaust weekly !!!!!first new car OCD requirement"
- LoL sure will :P

"Barrie1: As a suggestion I would approach your dealer to obtain the original Factory service manuel for this car"
- I do have another booklet by Mitsubishi that came with the car, called " Warranty & maintainence manual" . Is that what your refering to? if so, i will scan the page for 24,000Km maintainence routine.

"barrie1: I agree with TPL on your brakes as you don't want to run them too low as they could then score the rotors and cost more then required to replace"
- Ok, i will get them changed next month for sure.  I am still trying to see if i can get the front brakes upgraded to a bigger rotor  and twin callipers. Any idea how much that will cost me lol? Or get the rear drums replaced by Disc brakes. ( Lancer has shitty braking power )

"Arcticsteve: My 2 cents is to switch out the brake pads now. Why bother waiting? You don't want to heat stress the rotors. Make sure rear drums are adjusted and lube hardware. "
- Thats next on my todo list. As for servicing it, Mitsu dealer did a shitty job on it. They didnt even lube it!!! just sanded the shoe and the drums o_0. Also, while i had my brakes problem, i did goto Midas for brake inspection ( last month), they said the front shoes were good for few months and the back drums needed machining & probably servicing. Midas guy said to take it back to dealer since 30 days didnt pass and get them to do it. After pressuring the Mitsu service guy to do it, he said he will do it but the mechanic did a shitty job.  

"Arcticsteve: Get air filter at dealer until warranty expires. Don't get a K&N"
- Just outta curiousity, is there anything wrong with the K&N filter? I mean the Mitsubishi service department sells them ( $99 for my car) and Cdn Tire recommended that for me ( altho i don't buy that;sales tactic)

"Arcticsteve: Not many aftermarket parts for the car. Get the pads from the dealer. I bought some Talon parts off a Mitsu dealer in Markham and they were good on price and getting the order shipped"
- Thats where i go for my parts ordering now..have bad experience with Cooksville Mitsu.

"Arcticsteve: If the tranny pan has a drain plug I would drain it NOW and every third oil change and add (refresh) that amount which will be about 3 litres"
- Can this be done at home, or has to be done by a mechanic?. Coz i heard my friend saying i would need some gauge to fill exact liquid level and is very critical.

"Arcticsteve: Change fuel filter NOW"
- Didn't know about that :S nor my manual said anything about that. I am guessing i get that from the dealer too?
 

"Barrie1: Mikron15 save the money on the spark plugs as you don't need them yet at all"
- The waarnaty manual says to get it changed at 24,000km, so did the Mitsu mechanic. Spark plugs aint that expensive, so i don't mind changing that

"Boxgrover: The 0W-30 really is a full PAO 100% synthetic. And from what I have read Mobil and Esso are very independent with respect to their engine oil production...lucky for us Canadians"
- Assuming his fact is right, Mobil1 price is 2x the Esso brand  

Once again, thanks guys all for your quick replies and usefull suggestions.}

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #12 on: July 26, 2005, 09:42:15 pm »
It will be beneficial but pricey. The synthetic tranny fluid is a very good product and I am useing it myself in one of my vehicles. I am very suprised to hear of the 24000 klm change out of the spark plugs as that is very early in the life of the plugs. I wouldn't change the tranny fluid until its needed by the manual as the factory fluid will serve you well for its time span of usage. When its time is up I would switch over to the synthetic fluid and a new filter at the same time. I am sure your owners manuel will advise you on the milage time frame on this.

Offline mikron15

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« Reply #13 on: July 26, 2005, 10:09:46 pm »
I have scanned that page as proof :p
http://smart-host.us/mitsu.jpg

As for synth tranny fluid, i will change it later on.

Things to do  this week would be:
- oil change along with filter change
- air filter change
- new spark plugs
- fuel filter change( if i can find where its located).


By mid august, change the brake pads

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #14 on: July 26, 2005, 10:44:19 pm »
Mikron I certainly believe your statement but am suprised at the lower then normal lifespan on the plugs. That is very low klms by to-days standards for plugs. Your car will be a very Happy and good running car under your ownership.

Offline articsteve

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« Reply #15 on: July 27, 2005, 01:32:59 am »
Ya, that plug change is odd @24,000 km.  Get the dealer plugs for 4 bucks each.

A K and N filter will not increase your HP in any meaningful way.  Those things need soap and then a conditioning oil and I would just not mess around with that while your in warranty.  Those things might just trip an air flow meter.  Get a normal one at Crappy Tire or check the dealer.

50% pad wear is more than a few months more useage.  But considering the history of this car new pads wouldn't be the end of the world if you put them on early particularily if the rear drums have been out of wack.  The front pads could be uneven because you mentioned something about a new rotor under warranty.

Fuel filter is somewhere  You need some tips on changing it before hand.  Post back.  Buy off dealer and he will tell you where located.

Does tranny have a dipstick?

(Message edited by Articsteve on July 27, 2005)

Offline The Mighty Duck

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« Reply #16 on: July 27, 2005, 02:36:22 am »
CANADIAN TIRE carries K&N air filters for most makes/models.  A lot of the time they're special order, they're expensive and so keeping all the different ones in stock isn't practicle.  They come from Calgary and Toronto, the clerks can tell you how long it'll take (3-4 days to Vancouver/Victoria)  Look at about $50 for one.  I'd go with the Motormaster, the reason being a) the other option is Fram (or K&N), and b) Motormaster filters are made by...  Fram.


Go figure.

Spark plugs:
NGK V-power and NGK-G power are good for under $10/pair.  Standard Boche are on the same level.

Bosch Platinum 2 are a little better for $15/pair, and Bosch Platinum +4 are the best CT carries, at about $18/pair.  The 2s and 4s, as their name implies, have more prongs than a normal plug (which just has one), meaning in theory, a better spark.

Which saves fuel.

Spark plug wire kits, about $40.  Should replace them every once in a while, like anything they wear out, and you gain a little power putting new ones in.

With top of the line plugs and new wires, look at about $80 for a four cyl. and about $100 for a six.

If you're putting new front pads on...  get the Monroe Premiums.  Better overall quality (and warranty), and you would not believe the number of people who come back with the Certified pads CT carries saying they don't fit.  More than I'd like to see, anyway.  Premiums run $60.

Finally - if you REALLY want to boost HP, you have the option of installing a cold air intake and exhaust...  but that comes with its own set of pitfalls, reduced resale value amongst them.  For a car under warranty, I would not suggest doing it.

Offline tpl

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« Reply #17 on: July 27, 2005, 06:47:03 am »
Mikron, I am surprised at the plug change at 24000km.  In the warranty and service manual I would expect to see a section about special warranties on emission related parts which usually parrots the US Fed emissions regs for your model year.  My car is a 50 state and canada car and it specifically says that the plus and ignition stuff has to last for 100,000 MILES. It may be that your car is a "Canadian " car that does not meet those standards ( or rather, does not admit to meeting those standards)

Identical looking plugs can be different in their heat range.... I would get the NGK from the dealer while under warranty


A last note on K&N  to back up the others.
1) they are expensive
2) the oil that goes on them can destroy the function of the mass airflow sensor in the fuel injection  ON SOME CARS... I suspect none of us here know if your Lancer is one that is affected or not BUT cleaning the MAF is a fiddly job and they are not actually free to replace!
3) the power increase is not noticeable unless combined with other stuff. as per Demo: CAI etc.

As for the auto tranny.   Do not remove the drain plug until you have ascertained that a) there IS a filler plug and b) you can undo it!!!!!

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #18 on: July 27, 2005, 02:51:00 pm »
TPL is correct in that the K&N filter could actually do damage to your vehicle. The oil that is used on them is the problem when it gets onto the wrong parts inside the airflow system. I think we are all surprised by the low life span of the plugs even tho they are fairly cheap to buy. I also agree with a cold air intake being the fastest way to gain more Hp with this engine. I would wait until at least 100,000 klms to change the spark plug wires as they are no where's near worn out yet. There might be a aftermarket kit for the rear brakes to switch them over to disc but I would expect it to be somewhat expensive to do. The same goes for the front disc's. When the mechanic sanded the rear drums they probably didn't need to be turned on the lathe so he actually saved you the macheing cost at that time.

Offline mikron15

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« Reply #19 on: July 27, 2005, 10:50:13 pm »
"Arcticsteve: Fuel filter is somewhere  You need some tips on changing it before hand. Post back. Buy off dealer and he will tell you where located"
- I don't think the lancer ES has a fuel filter :S
Check  this thread @ http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.php?t=105534&page=1&pp=15&highlight=fuel +filter
I will goto the dealer tommorow and inquire about it.

Arcticsteve: Does tranny have a dipstick?
- According to the manual, there's a pic showing it and also mentions how to check the COLD/HOT level. I will check for it tomm morning.

demosthenes: CANADIAN TIRE carries K&N air filters for most makes/models."
- Unfortunately, they don't carry for the lancer and the Motomaster one is outta stock at both the Cdn tire i checked. Looks like i am gonna end up getting the air filter from the dealer.
 
demosthene: Spark plug wire kits, about $40. "
- I couldn't find the specific kit for the Lancer Es model. None of their parts lookup books nor their computers have  parts info records for the Mitsubishi :S ( bugs me as all other dam vehicles  are listed in those books)

f you're putting new front pads on... get the Monroe Premiums.
- Yup most likely i will get those or the ceramic type

As for the cold air intake and exhaust, i will do that after the warranty expires

Barrie:  I would wait until at least 100,000 klms to change the spark plug wires"
- I decided to change them at 50,000km before i read your post.

Barrie: There might be a aftermarket kit for the rear brakes to switch them over to disc but I would expect it to be somewhat expensive to do"
- Kits are available, but hard to find for this dam lancer model.  

they probably didn't need to be turned on the lathe so he actually saved you the macheing cost at that time.
- No, the service guy said he would do it for free..but the mechanic guy  was fedup with my problem and just did sanding or the service guy instructed the mechanic just do some basic stuff and get rid of me LoL. Midas upon brake inspection said, i should get the rear drums machined. But the mitsu service guy disregarded MIDAs inspection report and said their mechanics will check it out.
Mechanic guy said, it didnt need sanding and  the MIDAS was trying to rip me off. Whos telling the truth?.. I don't know..lets see, hopefully, i can save enough, to get the pads replaced with a good quality one, the shoe replaced, and the drums machined and serviced ( $225 was MIDAS quote for machining & servicing)