Author Topic: 5w20 oils (Read 2706 times)

civic · « **on:** June 15, 2005, 08:32:14 pm »

It seems that alot of new cars are recomending 5w20 grade oil be used and I wonder if the manufactures are sacrificing engine life for better fuel economy. 5w20 seems pretty thin for these hot summer days, my 03 civic calls for it but I wonder if going up to 5w30 would effect my oil pressure and the way my vtec works?
What do you guys think.

articsteve · « **Reply #1 on:** June 15, 2005, 11:36:25 pm »

5w20 seems pretty thin for these hot summer days

An understatement! A SAE 30 would be better!

I use Mobil One 5W30 in a 2001 1.7 EL and Shell 100% synthetic 5W30 in a 2002 2.0 SIR. No problems.

tpl · « **Reply #2 on:** June 16, 2005, 06:01:39 am »

Just an aside. the original 1975 Mobil 1 was a 5w-20, clear, evil smelling, poured like vodka, not available in Canada. I got a case from Vermont and used it in a Pinto. The engine didn't seem to mind and the starter motor speed at -20 was quite amazing.

from the syntec site.

SYNTEC 5W-20:
Specially formulated to meet the needs of Ford, Honda and Chrysler 5W-20 service API SM, SL, SJ. ILSAC GF-4, GF-3, GF-2. Ford WSS-M2C930-A. Ford WSS-M2C153-H.
SYNTEC 0W-30
API SL/CF. ACEA: A3, B3, B4. VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01. BMW Longlife-01. MB 229.1, 229.3. Porsche approved.
SYNTEC 5W-30
API SM, SL, SJ/CF. ACEA: A1, A5, B1, B5. GM 6094M, GM 4718M. Ford WSS-M2C929-A. ILSAC GF-4, GF-3, GF-2.

So there is at least one synth in 5w-20 that sdhould be easy to get.

A useful and understandaable site that is NOT BobTheOilGuy is
http://www.infineum.com/information/consumer.html

that defines those Euro standards. It has a specific table about the oil grades and low and high temp performance as well

ovr50 · « **Reply #3 on:** June 16, 2005, 10:45:34 am »

My Bullitt manual specifies 5W-20 oil. There's been a ton of chat on the Bullitt owner's site about the 5W-20 vs going to 5W-30. Some owner's have gone to the 30 with no ill effects, and others have stayed with the 20 with, likewise, no problems. Ford specified 5W-20 and that's what I'm using but in a synthetic. I'd not worry over 5W-20 being too light.

barrie1 · « **Reply #4 on:** June 16, 2005, 12:19:13 pm »

I believe the 5w20 is fine for most newer car engines as the tolerences are much tighter now then in the past and the machining is so much more improved over the last 10 years even.

ericthejet · « **Reply #5 on:** June 16, 2005, 06:56:39 pm »

You can sleep easy if Honda calls for the oil to be used in their product. I use 5w-30 year round, no issues but I haven't torn the engine apart either. :-)

juice_newton · « **Reply #6 on:** June 20, 2005, 12:31:07 am »

5w20 will be fine...If I were you I would even opt for Mobil 1 0w20...use it all year round.

syzygy · « **Reply #7 on:** June 21, 2005, 08:26:20 pm »

Arcticsteve,
Why is 5-w30 "better" than 5w20? I'm not trying to be a PITA as the last time I got into a debate about oil (Walmart oil) it started to get a little over the top. I understand that Ford and Honda swapped to w20 to squeeze a little more gas mileage out of the motors,and as I own a Focus, I spec it out with what Ford recommends, swapping to full synthetic in the winter to get better cold weather starting. I know that going to w30 really won't hurt the engine over the long haul, just as running spec'd dino oil and filter changed regularly should make your engine last just as long as synthetic under normal operating conditions. So other than availability what advantage does 5w30 confer?

articsteve · « **Reply #8 on:** June 22, 2005, 01:26:52 pm »

My understanding is that in a theoretical sense motors get fractionally better gas mileage on 5W20 than 5W30 and since gas mileage results must be submitted to the US government's EPA for approval which contributes to a subsequent fleet rating the companies have gone this route. This 5W20 number is kind of recent (last 5 years or so).

The other thing is that when the manufactures talk about motor oil they are referring to non synthetics. So it is my understanding that conventional oil is at it's most effective when the spreads between the high and low viscosity numbers are only only 20 points a part. For years it was always 10W30, but 10W was too high for many climate applications so 5W became popular. But the spread of a 5W30 was too much so the viscosity combo was dropped to 5W20 across the board and that along with better mileage numbers has become the standard it seems.

10W40 oils had the same problem. They were available but not recommended from what I read. The spread is too far apart. Instead I use a straight SAE 30 weight oil instead of a 10W40 that I use in a summer use Cherokee 4.0.

However, with true synthetics (EXCLUDING USA sold Castrol) engineers can make the spread anything they like with degrading certain performance elements of the product so 5W30 is my preference because it is a bit thicker and as such will offer better engine protection, IMO.

I use 5W50 syn oil in a 95 525 and it still comes out like water at oil changes and I use Mobil 1 15W50 in a 87 Porsche. On any Porsche board in the USA thicker weights are always used usually 50s.

So to answer you last sentence I would say if one is using conventional oil then 5W20 is the way to go year round or a SAE 30 for summer only and if one is using a 100% synthetic oil then 5W30 all year round. Basically, the thicker oil will give a bit more protection. Car companies don't focus on oil and lubes. Much of it is bulk and most folks working at the dealership can't tell you the source.

duck · « **Reply #9 on:** July 03, 2005, 05:08:04 am »

New Yorkers use 20W-50 oils and their engines have over 350,000 MILES. (583,000 km)

CONCLUSION: Thicker oils extend engine life.

tortoise · « **Reply #10 on:** October 25, 2011, 11:46:46 am »

BUMP from way back.

Now that 5W-20 oils have been recommended for a while is there a consensus?

The new ride spec's the 5W-20 oil and I was considering using the Castrol 0W-30. But this is a thick oil (more like a 40) and I'm wondering if the spread is too much.

The cynic in me suggest that the 20 weight oil was only used to CAFE, our engines be damned.

Thoughts?

My current thinking is just buy whatever big jug of synthetic 5W-20 is on sale. In the P5 I run the 0W-30 and find it's smoother than other oils. But I swear that engine is from a tractor. The new one is MUCH smoother.

airbalancer · « **Reply #11 on:** October 25, 2011, 12:07:24 pm »

I would go with a syn just for easier starting in the winter

tortoise · « **Reply #12 on:** October 25, 2011, 12:16:12 pm »

Sorry, meant to add that it would be synthetic either way.

Careener · « **Reply #13 on:** October 25, 2011, 12:33:48 pm »

I run both in 0w30 spec in my Mazda3 and 5w20 in the 6.
I wouldn't worry about it.

articsteve · « **Reply #14 on:** October 25, 2011, 04:38:58 pm »

0W30 only comes in a Group III oil that I'm aware of.

5W20 is the base Group II oil that the domestic and asian industry are now using in new fleets.

Even if its available in a Group III, the 0W30 oil is superior regardless of what it's running in. It's certainly not too "thick" for 2010 and up motors.

Art · « **Reply #15 on:** October 26, 2011, 04:24:20 pm »

I am not knowledgeable in oil chemistry and engineering, but I think that the oil performance when cold is just as important to engine life and well being as when the oil is at normal operating temperature.

Most engine wear occurs from a cold start where the engine oil is thick and has difficulty getting through the very small passages to where it is needed. A very thin oil is desireable in winter and summer to minimize this wear. Frequent short trips increase the problem. So a 0Wxx oil is preferable. A PAO synthetic or Group 3 hydro treated synthetic will not have the waxes that thicken conventional oil when very cold.

At normal engine operating temperature the wear rate is minimal, in normal road driving. So a xx20 oil is quite adequate.

Mobil 1 has a 0W20 synthetic oil that they recommend where the engine manufacturer recommends a 5W20 oil. So that is what I use.

Just my opinion.

rrocket · « **Reply #16 on:** October 26, 2011, 04:56:50 pm »

I have also run an OW20 in the winter months in years past. I'm using Amsoil right now so I only change the oil 2X per year, if that.

articsteve · « **Reply #17 on:** October 26, 2011, 07:29:20 pm »

I made an error in my last post. Meant to say that 0W30 on the market today is likely all Group 4 oil.

The Mobil 1 0W20 is a Group 3 oil.

Agreed that the "0" is important for cold start ups, but the "3" is gonna give it slightly more protection when it heats up and under load.

Gardiner Westbound · « **Reply #18 on:** October 26, 2011, 07:35:48 pm »

Guess I'm a bit old fashioned.

I figure the automaker knows more about his engines than I, so I adhere strictly to his oil specification and always specify an OEM filter.

articsteve · « **Reply #19 on:** October 26, 2011, 08:43:08 pm »

I figure the automaker knows more about his engines than I,

and here I thought you knew everything.

North American production receives the lowest tier oil filters. When you see retail price cuts across the board, there are take aways.

5W20 bulk dino oil is now standard because it provides the best EPA "numbers". Driving around Vegas and Palm Springs with 5W20 ...... nice.