Author Topic: Breaking in new wheels  (Read 2477 times)

Offline tigercat

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Breaking in new wheels
« on: May 17, 2005, 11:29:37 pm »
I'll be picking up a new car next week (Ford Focus ZX5) and was hoping for some pointers on how to drive / what to do during the engine's "break-in" period. How many kms does this period generally last before an engine reaches its optimum performance / efficiency?

What happens mechanically to an engine during this time as it gets broken in?

Offline ovr50

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« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2005, 01:08:50 am »
Avoid sudden stops or rapid acceleration; vary your engine speed. That's about it. The period usually is stated at 1600 kms or so (about a 1000 miles).  

There is also a large number of ppl who believe that no "break in" is required and you can just drive the bejeesus out of it from day 1. In fact, it could be better.  

You decide which camp you are in and act accordingly.
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Offline barrie1

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« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2005, 11:23:02 am »
The biggest single thing is getting the piston rings to seat into position which stops the oil burning. Ovr is correct in varying your speed and I recommend driving the car hard right from the beginning as it makes the rings seat much better and faster as well.

Offline mrthompson

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« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2005, 11:28:52 am »

Offline maritime_storm

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« Reply #4 on: May 18, 2005, 03:26:59 pm »
Most new cars require you drive reasonably conservatively{as described above} for the first 1000 miles{1600kms}, low friction rings won't completely seat until somewhere between 10,000 and 20,000kms. Which means during that time you will burn oil and find you're fuel consumption higher than it should be. Both are normal and the price you pay to have an engine that lasts longer.
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Offline articsteve

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« Reply #5 on: May 18, 2005, 07:14:24 pm »
Vary the rpm but don't redline it.

Change the oil @ 2500 kms or at least screw on another oil filter.
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« Reply #6 on: May 18, 2005, 09:30:27 pm »
I agree with all of the above. Be firm but don't baby it either. If it's gonna die, you want it to die while covered under the 'limited' warranty.
Read the fine print to avoid any unexpected surprises.

Offline 21Rouge

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« Reply #7 on: May 19, 2005, 12:47:14 pm »
The biggest single thing is getting the piston rings to seat into position which stops the oil burning.

Okay this begs the Q: how many kms on a new car before switching to synthetic...if that is what one wants to do? I think Articsteve thinks around 3000 km...I have read elsewhere to wait until after 2 or 3 dino oil changes. I just bought Mobile 1 (advertised for NEW cars) on sale at Crappy Tire for 6.79 a litre...so I am already to go...give the word!

Offline safristi

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« Reply #8 on: May 19, 2005, 01:12:28 pm »
...we know ya are a few millilitres short of a Litre..BUT..MOBILE is fer PHONES so pour a few cans over yer Picture_phone and watch the images go GROoVY..!!!
    Welcome to KanukistanDrover..YOU may use synthetic ....wait fer it..... 1:09PM.....1:10pm....1:11pm......NOW!!!!..tell them SAFF said so......


Kiddin' wait till 1:25:30 secs Greenwich MEAN TIME!!!!...
   Synthetic is better sooner than later...ask Mercedes,Corvettes at al......POUR AWAY...good price ya got too!!!!
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Offline ovr50

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« Reply #9 on: May 19, 2005, 01:37:22 pm »
Not sure that you can't use synthetic right away??? Anyone?

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #10 on: May 19, 2005, 01:40:18 pm »
The Power News Magazine which is dedicated to breaking in new engines recommends driving the new engine very hard for the 1st 1500 miles or so and then changing the oil to whichever you want to use. The 1st oil change could go as long as 3000 miles but I prefer to do it earlier then that myself. I usually do it around the 500 mile mark to get any of the fresh ground pieces out of the oil. I wait until around the 3000 mile mark before I decide which final oil I am going to use. Syn or Dino. Motoman from Power News has done 100's of new engines this way and has had 100% success doing it.

Offline 21Rouge

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« Reply #11 on: May 19, 2005, 01:54:44 pm »
I wait until around the 3000 mile mark before I decide which final oil I am going to use. Syn or Dino.

Hi Barrie1,

Just wondering how you decide what 'blood' your vehicle will get ie syn or dino. What are the disadvantages of syn..other than the actual cost of the oil?

Offline safristi

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« Reply #12 on: May 19, 2005, 01:59:58 pm »
NO DISADVANTAGES....ONLY ADVANTAGES....it's NOT 1985 anymore.....drop the original OIL at 3K and replace with SYNTH...YOUR MAYBACH/PORSCHE/CAVALIER will thank you....................

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #13 on: May 19, 2005, 02:08:31 pm »
I wouldn't say there's any disadvantage with useing Syn at all. The oil Molecules in Syn are oblong in shape while Dino Molecules are perfectly round. When working inside a engine the round to round leaves very small gaps while the syn fills in these area. Being man made the syn also has some different heat advantages and natural additives built in to protect the engine slightly better. The cost is the real only disadvantage to the syn oil as it is a very good product. In the world of to-days engines I do think syn is the possible better of the 2 products. The Dino oil of to-day is a great product so its up to the owner to decide which oil they wish to use in their vehicle. You can read up on Engine Breakins at mototuneusa 11137870d@titan.sparklist.com  

(Message edited by barrie1 on May 19, 2005)

Offline articsteve

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« Reply #14 on: May 19, 2005, 02:12:07 pm »
The Japanese use a break in oil that is different than the oil stocked at the dealer.  So what is the point of going from the break in oil to the dealer dino oil (or other dino brand) and then to one's selected syn oil.

I would say 2500 to 3000 km depending on the actual time interval would be about all I could go with on a new engine in an stop and go urban enviroment.

Mind you Japanese and European motors are much better machined and if this was domestic car like a GM I would say after the first 1500 km a change would be in order.

Many cars are run the full 8000 km and six months on the original factory oil.  For the oil purest the makings of a good nightmare.

Offline tigercat

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« Reply #15 on: May 27, 2005, 08:17:31 pm »
Intuition tells me that since the new engine's parts are meshing / find mating surfaces, etc., an oil change well before 5,000 km is a good idea (although who am I to doubt the Ford user's guide?).

P.S., very impressed with the ZX5's handling.

Offline 21Rouge

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« Reply #16 on: May 29, 2005, 01:21:33 pm »
Most new cars require you drive reasonably conservatively as described above for the first 1000 miles 1600kms, low friction rings won't completely seat until somewhere between 10,000 and 20,000kms. Which means during that time you will burn oil and find you're fuel consumption higher than it should be.

All else being equal any idea *approximately* how much improvement one will get re mileage as the new engine matures?

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« Reply #17 on: May 29, 2005, 04:41:34 pm »
I would be tempted to say 'slightly' better mileage than from the start. Don't forget that the attitudes of the driver will dictate how the fuel mileage concludes.
Which begs more questions...........

When the manufacturer does a dyno 'controlled' mileage test on their new vehicles to find ' X amount of fuel per...', How many miles are on these vehicles? Are they actually tested After the break-in mileage or before?

There could be some difference,no?

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #18 on: May 29, 2005, 04:43:08 pm »
I have seen a new engine use half a litre of oil or slightly more in the breakin period and the gas milage jump up to 20% when the engine is all seated in. There is a lot of variables on this and each design of engine has its own settings to work with. I don't really think there's any true figure for rating them overall.

Offline murry52

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« Reply #19 on: June 09, 2005, 12:41:04 pm »
The motors I build for N.H.R.A. and I.H.R.A. are ALWAYS Syn. oil ( Royal Purple) Imports can go up to  5000 Kms. before changing to Syn. Oil but North American MUST be changed between 800 - 1000 Kms, this is due to tolerances upon engine build