Topic: Help me get my summer tires back on!

[shoehorn]

Hi everyone.  I'm a bit of a greenhorn -- I used winter tires for the first time this winter (got them put on rims) now I want to change them.  I have a torque wrench -- what do I do?!?

Thanks!

[oversteer]

I suggest you google "how to change a tire" and "how to use a torque wrench".  It's all there, seriously.  I was going to type out a big explanation and then I needed to look something up about it and found way better explanations already online.

Also, put bricks behind at least two of the wheels that are not being jacked up.

[Mdxtasy]

Remember to mark the tires of where you took them off of.  LF for left front, and RR for right rear etc.  That way, when you put them back on in the fall, you'll know how to properly rotate them.

[tpl]

If your summer wheels are alloys.

A light smear of "antiseize compound" on the hub where the wheel mounts never hurts...LIGHT smear only, you dont want it to migrate all over. A few bucks for a can that will last 20 years or twice a year changing...cos you wont need it every time.


There are two common kinds.  
Grey stuff. Cdn tire along with the speciality lubes section.  Copper stuff. Never seen it at Cdn tire but a specialist auto parts place will probably have it.

Either will do for wheels but for some other applications the copper stuff is better.

[morty]

If you are not comfortable changing over the wheels and tires or you dont have the correct tools, the easiest solution is to visit a local mechanic and for a very small fee have them do it.  

If you want to do it yourself you will require good flat cement area to do the install, jack stands, lug wrench and tire blocks. Consult your owners manual on where the jacking points are on your vehicle.

Once you have all of that ready, here are some great directions from WIC (Wheel Industry Council). This a SEMA organization and these directions are very good. http://www.sema.org/images/pdf/26481.pdf

Hope this helps you out and good luck. Just remember to be patient!




TireTrends - End of season winter sale!

[articsteve]

the easiest solution is to visit a local mechanic and for a very small fee have them do it.

In Toronto Morty?  Easiest?

In the time it takes you to cover your seats and make room for 4 tires; travel to a garage or perhaps a Canadian Tire automotive hell hole; leave your keys for the day or pace around for a few hours; and pay 40 bucks with zero expectation that the torque is correct and not more like 130 lbs; you can have your tires switched at your own home plus stain the deck.

However, you have one more thing to buy; a decent hydraulic floor jack.  Canadian Tire has some good sales plus Deals or Princess Auto stores.  Even sears on rare sales events might have something.

On the first occasion you will probably find that the nuts are on extremely tight.  You might need a breaker bar or one of those T type tire irons to break them free.

Set parking brake.  Break all nuts free on all wheels.  Then lift one wheel up at a time and replace the tire.  Snug the bolts up in a criss cross alternating pattern.

Torque nuts when car on ground and off jack.  Remember to release pressure from torque wrench between uses.

Next step is to acquire a balance type tire balancer.

[tpl]

Artic you are a bit unfair. there are some independent tire places in TO that not only use torque wrenches but actually set them to the right number..and at least one of those places only takes 30 minutes if you get there as they open.

I disagree with the torquing with the car on the ground...although if you are sure that the nuts are snugged up properly before lowering it.... I like to rotate the wheel in the air while "finger tightening" the nuts as you say criss-cross alternating to make sure the cones on the nuts are seated truly in the wheels and then torque while in the air.... probably makes not much difference and it does require more strength to hold the wheel while clicking the torque wrench.

I do agree about the hydraulic jack  a 2 1/2 ton trolley jack is the perfect implement for this job and can be found on sale as you say....my sears one is 25 years old and still works perfectly...cost $90 in 1977

[morty]

I guess easiest is a relative term. Doing it yourself is definitely easiet...provided you know what you are doing. If not the mechanic will be the way to go.  

Hydraulic jack is definitely a good investment, but you could use the original vehicle jack (a bit painful, but would work). Using the torque wrench with the vehicle on the ground is much easier, but whatever suits your fancy.




TireTrends - End of season winter sale!

[articsteve]

..and at least one of those places only takes 30 minutes if you get there as they open.

Providing one is close by and therefore doesn't take you 30 minutes travelling each way provided no snarled traffic.  Then of course you are trapped in a hell hole over a simple wheel swap.

The GTA is getting ridiculous to drive in.  Middle of the night is not too bad providing one has a bullet resistant car.

(Message edited by Articsteve on April 13, 2005)

[tpl]

I agree Artic.  Happens for me that I live in Cabbagetown, work in Richmond Hill on 16th/404 and can detour from the 404  on the 407 to Tiremag on Keele from where I can drift back on 16th to the office and hardly ever see another car at 07:00 through 08:30 ! Even go to the office first for email and then on the 407..takes as long from 16th to 407 ramp as the rest of the 407 trip...well nearly anyway.

 I would NEVER attempt to go north of the office for anything in the morning and have to come back south...even by a couple of blocks!

[articsteve]

I know, it's total overload.  The 427 north was always continuous, but now even that route can come to a stand still in the late afternoon. Driving a beater in the GTA is pretty stressful these days.

[ktm525]

With practice the changeover hardly takes any time. I can do my Passat is just over 1 hour. Another positive to doing it yourself is you can do a little recon to see how the general condition of your brakes are doing (pad thickness, leakage), shocks (signs of leaking) and ball joints.