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Author Topic: Dodge Neon will not idle correctly???  (Read 1524 times)
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mar122999
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« on: December 19, 2004, 07:13:06 pm »

Hi. I am having some problems with my 1997 Dodge Neon car. First here is a little info about my car:

1997 Dodge Neon SOHC 2.0L w/110,000 miles

About 5 months ago, my car started to kill on me while I was driving down the street (almost like it was running out of gas). I immediately brought it back to my shop (I do have some car mechanic experience) and checked both fuel flow and the ignition system. I changed the crankshaft sensor out and that seemed to fix the problem. Until recently, the car has been acting funny at idle speed. It hesitates and has a hard time getting to normal idling speed whenever you first crank the car. It wants to idle at a lower speed that makes the car shutter. It will even kill at stop lights if I don't give it enough gas to keep it up.  

Well, I changed the fuel filter, spark plugs, spark plugs wires, coil, cleaned the fuel injectors, checked the fuel injectors, checked the air filter, checked the cylinders for compression and made sure that the head gasket was not blown, and did about everything else possible. I know one thing though. Whenever I disconect a vacuum line from the car, the car idles fine and starts good. That blows my mine b/c normally whenever you break a vacuum line, the car is suppose to run bad right??? Well, I checked the EGR valve and transducer, PCV valve, and vacuum hoses for leaks. But do I need to be looking for leaks??? Why is the car running better whenever I disconect a vacuum line???
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ericthejet
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« Reply #1 on: December 22, 2004, 06:31:37 pm »

That sucks.  Have you searched for trouble codes yet?  Fuel pump acting up?
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articsteve
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« Reply #2 on: December 23, 2004, 12:40:30 am »

Idle control motor.  The unit on my 88 Cherroke is pretty simple.  Plunger type.  That is the only Chyrsler Idle Control Motor I've had experience with.  It is still broken.  Summer is OK idle but the vehicle is unuseable in the winter.

When I disconnected it and blocked off the idle port I did need to pull some vacuum lines and plug them with a screw.  Just brought the idle up better. No idea why.  Just happy the unit runs.

My Mitsu made Chysler Talon also has a broken Idle Control Motor but it is a totally different.

(Message edited by articsteve on December 23, 2004)
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« Reply #3 on: December 23, 2004, 01:46:00 am »

Could be a sticking AIC motor, get a can of air intake cleaner spray it into the ports in the throttle body leading the motor. This is a common problem. Also check your temp sensor, if it's going south you'll a pile of interesting driveability issues. My money's on one of these 2 items.
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saint_satan
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« Reply #4 on: December 23, 2004, 08:12:40 am »

Maritme storm and arctic steve are bright cookies but the simplest approach is to take it to the dealer.  Chances are there is a TSB on it and they will know what the problem even before they see the car. It sounds like you have hit everything you can do on your own.
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camarobuyer86
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« Reply #5 on: December 24, 2004, 03:22:21 pm »

at 2carpros.com I read the neon is allegedly known for headgasket jobs.  SO if you get any coolant leaks or oil leaks, spend the money and get it fixed.   I thought Neon was a nice cheap car to find used in decent condition.   I never owned a Neon, but I find it discouraging to read two mechanics saying Neon is known for head-gasket problems.  Personally If you can, and you have a mechanic you have faith in, my advice is to stay away from the dealer, if you have no warranty left.  Honestly, local mechanic's labor rates wont be much cheaper than the dealer, if at all. but it might be a LITTLE cheaper.   I do emphasize the word MIGHT.  BUT additionally, the dealer sticks rigidly to the Manufacturer's books on Time estimates for job completion. If the book says its a 6 hour job, the dealer charges 6 hours.  If your mechanic can do the job in 4 1/2 hours, your mechanic might charge you actual labor, versus book-labor.  As for parts, you might want to read some literature on parts.   Some mechanics dont mind the cheaper parts.  Some mechanics dont want to use anything but dealer parts.  I paid about $35 each for my hood shocks.  The mechanic said he didnt want to use anything other than Chevy dealer parts for my Camaro hood shocks. My piece of crap Topaz that im having the scrapyard come take away, I had Brake rotors put on, 5 years ago.  The brake rotors werent the cheapest.  I priced them cheaper at pep boys. (I dont know if you have pep boys in Canada.)  I forget what Pep boys said:  either that the cheap chinese rotors are as good, or the cheaper rotors are made in the US.  But foreign/replica parts versus manufacturer parts is a big issue.
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barrie1
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« Reply #6 on: December 25, 2004, 12:28:21 am »

No we don't have the Pep Boys but do have similar chains in other names. I agree buy the beter grade parts as you do get the longer life out of them.
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