Author Topic: Mazda no heat  (Read 3207 times)

Offline bigbill10

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Mazda no heat
« on: December 09, 2004, 07:14:45 am »
I have a 89 mazda323 that will only get heat if I let the car idle but as soon as I drive it the temp gauge goes back down and there is no heat again,I have replaced the thermostat what can be going on here...........Help its getting cold

Offline johngenx

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« Reply #1 on: December 09, 2004, 09:50:21 am »
Sounds like a bad thermostat.  Try another one.  Our own 626 had the same problem, and I replaced the thermostat and had to do it three times.  Seems to me that Mazda's quality control on their thermostats could be better.
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Offline bigbill10

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« Reply #2 on: December 09, 2004, 10:39:20 am »
I TESTED THE THREMOSTAT AND IT APPEARS TO OPENING AND CLOSING LIKE IT SHOULD.....

Offline jeeper

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« Reply #3 on: December 09, 2004, 11:13:51 am »
dont know maybe Barrie will help u with that...

Offline ericthejet

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« Reply #4 on: December 09, 2004, 12:35:00 pm »
Check the coolant level. Check the quality of the coolant with a tester.  Make sure you bleed the coolant system if you do end up topping it up.  This will help avoid air in the system.  Is the heater control valve working OK?  Does you cooling ssytem cycle on its own? (idle conditions and the cooling fan comes and goes off on its own?)  Is you thermostat cheap to change and if so you may want to install a new one before it gets colder.
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Offline barrie1

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« Reply #5 on: December 09, 2004, 02:39:28 pm »
I believe Eric is on the right path to fixing this problem. Leave your rad cap off and make sure your heater is on HI Fan and Max heat when you do this. This will call for the heat sensors to act and possibly remove the air trapped in the system. Have your gal jug handy to add anti-freeze as required when it drops. Probably take up to 20 minutes or so doing this.

Offline johngenx

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« Reply #6 on: December 09, 2004, 04:22:45 pm »
I TESTED THE THREMOSTAT AND IT APPEARS TO OPENING AND CLOSING LIKE IT SHOULD.....

No need to shout at me!  Cripes.

Offline bigbill10

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« Reply #7 on: December 09, 2004, 07:34:49 pm »
Sorry for the shout I wasnt paying attention to the caps..............

Offline ericthejet

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« Reply #8 on: December 10, 2004, 12:59:32 pm »
Any updates on the situation?

Offline bigbill10

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« Reply #9 on: December 10, 2004, 01:37:12 pm »
I tried running it with the rad cap off but it will still only heat up when ideling also when I pulled the wire that goes to the thermo housing the fan turns on .The heat is strong when at idle

Offline davidm

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« Reply #10 on: December 10, 2004, 01:53:13 pm »
This is going to sound really stupid, but make sure you didn't put the thermostat in upsidedown/backwards.  Its a really common mistake on this engine.

The key is to hold the hose between the engine and the thermostat - you should be able to feel the warm coolant flowing if the thermostat is open correctly.

If this isn't working, I can recommend a great shop in Vancouver that knows this engine intimately.
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Offline johngenx

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« Reply #11 on: December 10, 2004, 07:55:14 pm »
It makes no snese to me other than the thermostat.  If the core was not getting coolant flow, you'd have no heat at idle.  With the coolant temp dropping at speed, it indicates the coolant is reaching the rad when it should not.  The device that controls the flow of the coolant to the rad is the thermostat.  If the heater core coolant lines were blocked, no heat anytime.  If the rad is blocked, then the engine would get hot, not cold  If there is air in the system, it also gets hot, not cold.  I have never seen anything other than a bad thermostat (or upside down one as mentioned) cause those symptoms.  Also, testing the TS at home in a pot is not accurate, but if it's opening and closing properly, I'm stumped.

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #12 on: December 11, 2004, 12:40:46 am »
Have you had the fan switch turned to max Hot with the slide controls on full as well when testing this out? Are you blowing heat on the idle or is it just the rad getting Hot.

Offline bigbill10

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« Reply #13 on: December 12, 2004, 07:14:47 am »
I know for sure the thermostat is in correctly.I just dont get it How can a motor run so cold I have placed a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator it will still drop temp when  I drive it.The car just slowly cools down..........

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #14 on: December 12, 2004, 04:16:43 pm »
Bigbill this still sounds like air in the system, if you don't have the switches turned right you will never get the air out of there. Trapped air can be a real bugbear to force out if you don't do it right.  Have you checked the oil level lately as well.

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« Reply #15 on: December 13, 2004, 01:44:18 am »
If the coolant isn't seeping into the oil, perhaps try draining the coolant, and refill over again.  My tech tells me the heater core is the worst to get the air out of. AND also that the only way the air will come out isn't by running the engine with the rad cap off but by the normal action of the coolant being returned back to the engine from the reservoir as the engine cools.

My son's Windstar(yeh, don't get me going) was losing coolant at a rate of a litre and a half every two weeks. I asked him all the usual q's and he said there was no white smoke from the tailpipe, no visible leaks, does not overheat, no sludge on oil filler cap or in rad.?????

He brought it up to my tech. He did a leak pressure test and found the timing cover gasket , water pump and intake gasket leaking. OK Fine. Fix it.

Get it back two days later, losing coolant again. Topped the reservoir up twice, finally stopped dropping.  
NOW, the damn thing stalls during and after warmup. (Keep in mind this is a 96' 179k kms. off three year lease (like my Olds), has never had any stalling problems before).

Take it back, tech installs a new IAC valve. That worked for one day. Geezuz.

Took the van to a Ford dealer. Guy tells him the motor's shot. Typical Ford Ass***** not a G**damn clue.

Took the van to a mechanic buddy for his opinion. It'll be interesting to see who's going to find the right fix.

My tech suggested MAYBE an O2 sensor or plugged egr ports. The egr valve was replaced after the intake was replaced.  

There is simply too much interconnecting (crap)components to go haywire on vehicles these days.

All to make them run cleaner, maybe, better? I don't think so.

Offline bigbill10

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« Reply #16 on: December 15, 2004, 07:01:29 am »
I was thinking about that thermostat it is sort of offset does it matter if it is installed with the offset up or down.. The thermostst goes in horizontally

Offline davidm

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« Reply #17 on: December 15, 2004, 02:44:48 pm »
Horizontally, hmm, different mounting from the Miata which is vertical (at the front of the engine).  But yes, there is a "top" and a "bottom" - I would flip it and see if it works.

Offline barrie1

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« Reply #18 on: December 15, 2004, 04:20:36 pm »
Some thermostats have top marked on them and yes even the sides may say To front of engine as well. They have to be placed correct in the housing. It makes all of the difference as this is what it will do if not in there correctly.

Offline bigbill10

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« Reply #19 on: December 16, 2004, 10:08:01 pm »
Well I think I finally got it I pulled the thermostat out rotated it 180degrees and now I am getting heat when I drive yahoo  thanks for all the help everone.............The more heads thinking out a problem will always solve the problem