Author Topic: Quick q: how to read the XwXX (5w30, 10w20, etc.)  (Read 7262 times)

Offline dugrant153

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Quick q: how to read the XwXX (5w30, 10w20, etc.)
« on: November 13, 2004, 05:22:33 am »
just wondering how to read it.

I'm using 10w30 in my car right now. might be a bit much for winter viscosity.

Offline inco

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Quick q: how to read the XwXX (5w30, 10w20, etc.)
« Reply #1 on: November 13, 2004, 07:04:54 am »
Low for cold and high for hot. Dropping down to 5W for winter won't hurt. Going up to 40 or 50 for summer and high heat and loads is good too.

Most engines though will do quite fine on 10-30 and that's why it is so common. The others handle the extremes.

Offline ericthejet

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Quick q: how to read the XwXX (5w30, 10w20, etc.)
« Reply #2 on: November 15, 2004, 07:19:59 pm »
What kind of car/engine do you have?
10 viscosity winter/ protects up to 30 viscosity.  That is how you read oil.  5w is thinner that 10w.  Some Honda's use 0w but more for enviromental testing and fuel milage.  The higher the second # the greater the protection, but use what the manufacture of the car calls for.  I use synthetics only, engine and gearbox.
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Offline brian

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Quick q: how to read the XwXX (5w30, 10w20, etc.)
« Reply #3 on: November 15, 2004, 08:07:14 pm »

quote:

The higher the second # the greater the protection


Not really, unless you are operating an engine which calls for it or are using the vehicle in a extreme condition use, like very high temperatures, towing, or racing.

The "thicker is better" arguement has gone on for a long time, but experimentation and oil analysis with thinner oils, such as the new fuel-economy inspired 0w20 grade, has shown that even oils that thin still provide surprisingly good protection for an engine.  Oil has come a long way since the old days. :-)

Offline ericthejet

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Quick q: how to read the XwXX (5w30, 10w20, etc.)
« Reply #4 on: November 15, 2004, 09:35:43 pm »
IMO I think that  engines have come along futher than the oils have.  Years ago you would change oil from season to season while more modern cars usually run a single grade all year.  While I agree that thicker is not always better I would rather fall onto a thicker crash pad than a thinner one.  If my body would evolve quickly enough to cope with the strain perhaps I would not need any at all. Ha ha. :-)  I think its a blend(no pun ) of engine design and oil that allow for the use of lighter grades.  Honda calls for 0w30(20) in most of its new products while my old 84 1500s civic allowed for grades up to 20w50, conditions pending of course.

After all the years oil remains a hot topic with many views and opinions but I'll be the last fella on earth to ever pour "Nugold" into my engine despite that seal on the back of the bottle.  Mobil 1 or death I say. :-)  BTW, my motorcycle runs on 20w50 all the time but I think that also has to do with the fact that its also lubing the gearbox.
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Offline brian

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Quick q: how to read the XwXX (5w30, 10w20, etc.)
« Reply #5 on: November 16, 2004, 01:07:42 pm »
True, engines in more recent years have been more well manufactured, not needed much of a "break-in" period like the engines of say 10 years ago still did.  Engines are more precise and oil is higher quality these days.